The Mountains are Calling ~ John Muir Wilderness ~ Eastern Sierras, CA

“The mountains are calling and I must go.”  ~  John Muir

Majestic snow-capped peaks

We share this esteemed naturalist’s views, the allure of these mountains is that strong.  It is a spiritual experience, for sure, and the recommended hike passed on to our friend Nina by a forest ranger was to most definitely do Little Lakes Trail.  We were blessed with a rainstorm a few days earlier so we knew without a doubt there would be snow topping the rugged peaks of the John Muir Wilderness where this hike was to take us.

Terry at one of the many striking trailside lakes

Looking at the topographical map at Mosquito Flats, our jumping-off point, we saw evidence of literally hundreds of lakes dotting the mountainsides.  Our hike was to take us by a mere six of these sparkling jewels, ending at Gem Lake, where we lunched lake-side, surrounded by snow-covered granite peaks.  Could life possibly get any better than this?!

The gang lunching at Gem Lake

Considering the hikes we had done at June Lake and many others that were available in this area, Little Lakes was relatively easy, a 7-miler beginning at 10,300 feet and  topping out at just shy of 11,000 feet…piece of cake!  For sightseeing, these are my kind of hikes, not too taxing to leave me huffing and puffing, just a nice, easy hiking pace while enjoying the grandeur all around me, and there was plenty of that!  Sparkling lakes, alpine meadows and many thirteeners surrounded us, Mt. Dade, Mt. Abbot, Mt. Mills, and Bear Creek Spire, to name a few.

The pack, as Nina would say
Paul having a Zen moment

We marveled at the condition of this trail as we wound along meadows and shimmering lakes. Perhaps it is so well-maintained because it is a popular trek. Going early and in the off-season is recommended, as we did, and were rewarded with very few hikers on our way out. This trail is also popular with the fishing and climbing enthusiasts.

Lovely snow-covered hillsides

From our campground at Horton Creek, it is an approximate 45-minute drive on Hwy 395 to get to this lovely trailhead, where the mountains are calling anyone who wants to experience Mother Nature at her finest.

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Ever-changing Sky and Mountains ~ Horton Creek Campground ~ Bishop, CA

We are snuggly tucked into the Horton Creek BLM Campground just north of Bishop, CA, with our caravan buddies Nina and Paul.  This was more of an impromptu camping stop after weather reports of dipping temps and snow predictions in the June Lake area had us all collectively saying, “we’re outta here”.  Nina, ever so resourceful, went online and found this little gem.  There were no reviews to check out so we were relying solely on her instincts and she hasn’t steered us wrong yet.  We threw caution to the wind and said “let’s go”.  Her talent for seeking out new and interesting places, well, is just AWESOME!

This place has it all, expansive skies, sprawling desert, 360º mountain views, and Mother Nature has just sprinkled a dusting of snow on the mountaintops after a much-needed rainstorm blew through yesterday.  

We are due down in the San Diego area in a couple of weeks and our nomadic ways will end for a few months.  Until then we are enjoying every sunrise, every walk in the desert, and every sunset ~ all the ever-changing moods nature has to offer.

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Hiking High ~ Eastern Sierras, CA

View from the summit at Virginia Lakes

Hiking high (as in elevation, not in how fuzzy my brain feels), is inevitable if you are in the Eastern Sierras. The Oh! Ridge NFS Campground where we are hangin’ out sits at roughly 7600 feet so it’s pretty much a given that you will be movin’ on up from there! Since altitude and I are not on the best of terms, I can be plagued with vertigo, headaches and nausea if I’m not careful.  Acclimatizing to this altitude has made all the difference in my hiking enjoyment, and we do love our hiking.

Eastern Sierra sunset

The Eastern Sierras are particularly special: 360º mountain views, crisp sunny days, deepest azure skies, striking fall colors, gorgeous alpine lakes, breathtaking sunsets. Hiking doesn’t get much better than this.

We did a couple of hikes early on to get us in the mood and get me acclimatized.  Parker Lake, with its golden quaking aspens along the trail and crystal-clear blue lake and Lundy Canyon Trail, with a great overlook sporting golden meadows, aspens, and a lovely waterfall were great starter hikes.

So, I think I’m prepared to stretch myself a bit further, to experience the true grandeur of the Sierras.  To ensure a safe hike and stave off altitude sickness, we have called upon our buddy Paul to call forth the Paiute “Great Spirit”, to guide  us on our journey.  Ok, I’m being a little silly but I love how Paul was captured in this photo so I just had to add it.

Paul calling forth the “Great Spirit” at Lundy Canyon Overlook

On a quest to further prepare myself, our next hike was Yost Lake.  With an elevation gain of 1800 feet and ~ 3.2 miles each way, it was fairly grueling from the time we set boots on the trail.  The alpine lake at the top was the prize and a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch, basking in the sun.

Yost Lake
Balancing act

Yosemite was calling us back so we decided a short hike in the park was not to be missed.  The recommendation given us by a couple of friends was Gaylor Lakes.  Located just inside the eastern entrance to the park, Gaylor Lakes trailhead sits at roughly 10,000 feet, with only a 500 foot elevation gain – easy, right?  Once again straight up we go and then straight down to the lakes.  Terry even said it was a b@!ch of a little hike, and when I caught my breath, I had to agree.

Gaylor Lake

For me, the granddaddy of our hikes in this area was to be Virginia Lakes.  Our traveling buddies Nina and Paul had already tackled it so I knew what to expect. Beginning at an elevation of ~ 9800 feet, it tops out on Summit Pass at 11,140 feet and is roughly 8 miles round-trip.

One of the many splendid Virginia Lakes

Nina and Paul agreed to come along for their second hike to the lakes (oh the beauty of youth!).  With a little trepidation (wondering if my body would remember it does not like these altitudes), we hit the trail.  Winding through aromatic pine forest and past five of the loveliest little alpine lakes, I decided to go for the summit.  Although a little windy and a lot colder at the top, I could not have been happier.  The views from the top were breathtaking!

Nina & Polly at Virginia Lakes
Terry & I on the summit

The Eastern Sierras have given us some of the best hiking we have done.  If you come, be prepared for a hiking high that will challenge and inspire you.  The beauty here is nothing short of heavenly.  But all good things must come to an end, and with temps dipping into the 20’s at night, it’s time to head south to Bishop.

Miner’s camp on Virginia Lakes trail

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Oh Yeah ~ Oh! Ridge NFS Campground, June Lake, CA

June Lake

We have taken the drive into the Eastern Sierras on US 395 and it is simply a breathtaking slice of California!  Although a slow starter, Autumn is finally announcing her arrival. Once again we have met up with our buddies Nina and Paul at the Oh! Ridge NFS campground overlooking June Lake and, oh yeah, this is something special.  There is so much to do here that a month would not suffice.

Parker Lake Trail fall colors

Nina and Paul have been here a week so they, being the ever-so-gracious hosts, have given us multiple ideas and a number of trails to set off on for viewing fall colors.

Parker Lake

Given that I have a bit of an altitude issue, I am working on acclimatizing myself to hiking at higher elevations.  This campground sits at roughly 7600 feet above sea level so we opted for a nice 4-mile hike to Parker Lake, with an easy 680 foot elevation gain, a great starter hike for me.  Parker Lake is a sparkling little lake nestled into a small canyon at the base of some 12,000 foot peaks of the Sierra Crest.  It is a lovely little prize at the end of the trail.

Next up was a sunrise visit to the Mono Lake Tufa Towers, which Nina said was a must-see and oh yeah, she was not kidding.

Sun breaching the mountains over Mono Lake

Mono Lake is a large, shallow lake that formed more than 760,000 years ago.  Because it has no outlet to the seas, high levels of salts have accumulated, resulting in waters that are 2.5 times saltier and 1000 times more alkaline than the oceans.  With such alkaline waters you would not expect a thriving ecosystem but you would be wrong.  Interestingly enough, brine shrimp and alkali flies are prolific here, and the flies seem happy to live both above and under the water, feasting on the algae that grows in large number here.  The alkali fly larvae were a source of nutrition for the native peoples long ago and continue to be the food choice for the two million annual migratory birds that grace these shores.

Sunrise warming the mountains overlooking Mono Lake

So, what the heck is tufa you ask?  Here at Mono Lake these strange rock formations, which have grown since the existence of this lake, are basically  limestone (calcium carbonate).  The lake water and the calcium in the underwater springs combine to create a chemical reaction, that over centuries lays down layers of limestone to create these bizarre towers.  Had it not been for the water level of the lake dropping precipitously over the past 70+ years, photographers from around the world would not have the pleasure of capturing these odd yet beautiful spires, some reaching heights of over 30 feet.

Tufas awaiting sunrise

Tufas grow many places around the world but Mono Lake has the most active formations and some of what we were viewing in the early morning light have been around since the last Ice Age, when Mono Lake was five times her present size.

Although it was rather brisk at 6:00 am, I cannot tell you the excitement I felt as the sun breached the mountain peaks.  Her fingers first tickled the lake, casting stunning colors and reflections, only to have her reach out minutes later to cast a golden glow on the tufa.  Wow, what a sight!

Almost there!
The sun finally reaches the tufas ~ gorgeous!

After many, many photos, we headed back to the warmth of our vehicle and straight to Silver Lake Cafe for a yummy breakfast and a chance once again to marvel at what we had just witnessed.

Lundy Canyon Overlook
The whole gang at the Lundy Canyon Overlook

From here a quick 3-mile hike up the Lundy Canyon Trail, to a striking overlook showcasing golden aspens and a cascading waterfall, rounded out our day.  Oh yeah, life is good. 🙂

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Sparkling Sapphire Gem ~ Crater Lake National Park

Phantom Rock moored in Crater Lake

After a week at our “service bay” home, we were on the road once again to continue our exploration of Oregon.  Thankfully before leaving Junction City we were able to enjoy an evening with friends John and Janie.  We are heading inland for a time, with our first stop being Crater Lake National Park, where we met up with friends Paul and Nina and their RV buddies Alex and Ellen, a delightful couple.  This is one of the true beauties of the RV lifestyle, slow-paced, with opportunities to meet new folks and reconnect with others.

Golden meadows and Mt. Thielsen from bike path

We have settled in the Umpqua National Forest, Diamond Lake Campground and are having one of our first experiences with “boondocking”, goin’ naked, no hookups.  We’re not nearly as well equipped as our friends, who both have solar panels on their rigs, Paul and Nina sporting 600 watts and Alex and Ellen a whopping 1000 watts.  Paul jokes of suffering from “watt envy” when Alex speaks of his solar power (lol).

Besides a visit to Crater Lake NP, which is a definite must, there is much to do here.  An 11-mile paved bike path encircles Diamond Lake, providing fantastic views of the lake, the meadows, and dramatic Mt. Thielsen with her horn-shaped peak.  Although we have not done, kayaking would be a great way to explore the lake itself.

Me – first views of Crater lake
Terry overlooking Diamond Lake and Mt. Thielsen, from Mt. Bailey trail
Cleetwood Cove on Crater Lake

The six of us, plus pooch Polly, set out to tackle Mt. Bailey, a strenuous 10-miler to the peak.  Mt. Bailey often gets overlooked standing so close to Mt. Thielsen, but she deserved some love too, all 8368 feet of her.

Although we did not summit, 7 miles for me was not bad, and the views were spectacular.  I am discovering that months lived at sea level have taken their toll on my hiking at 7000 feet.

Pumice Castle

Fire season has come to Oregon, along with many other western states so our first views of Crater Lake were rather hazy, with smoke collecting in the caldera.  We went back on a clearer day and hiked up to Watchman Tower for some better photos.

While a detailed post of Crater Lake National Park is definitely warranted, I will let one who has written before me speak more on her virtues instead.  Our friend Nina has written an excellent piece, which you should check out here.

I will leave you with my initial thoughts as I stood looking down into this magnificent deep blue lake for the first time.

Crater Lake

Long before your birth

a violent volcano stood.

So angry her nature

a catastrophic eruption occurred.

~

When dust and ash settled

You emerged in her wake.

A timeless vision of pure beauty

Sun, snow or rain.

~

Your penetrating sapphire depths

the most intriguing of all.

A refreshing drink of your waters

an elixir for the gods.

~

Ancient winds whisper your secrets

‘tho you hold some in reserve.

Beckoning us closer

with your hypnotic allure.

                 © LuAnn Oburn 2012

The formation of Crater Lake began roughly 7700 years ago, after the cataclysmic eruption of 12,000-foot Mt. Mazama, perhaps the most massive volcanic explosion in the past 640,000 years.  This breathtaking lake and its deep sapphire color is the cleanest body of water in the world, cleaner than over 80% of all water flowing from our taps, I have read.  With depths reaching 1943 feet and widths ranging from 4.5 to 6 miles, she is an impressive sight, not to be missed.

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