Hiking High ~ Eastern Sierras, CA

View from the summit at Virginia Lakes

Hiking high (as in elevation, not in how fuzzy my brain feels), is inevitable if you are in the Eastern Sierras. The Oh! Ridge NFS Campground where we are hangin’ out sits at roughly 7600 feet so it’s pretty much a given that you will be movin’ on up from there! Since altitude and I are not on the best of terms, I can be plagued with vertigo, headaches and nausea if I’m not careful.  Acclimatizing to this altitude has made all the difference in my hiking enjoyment, and we do love our hiking.

Eastern Sierra sunset

The Eastern Sierras are particularly special: 360º mountain views, crisp sunny days, deepest azure skies, striking fall colors, gorgeous alpine lakes, breathtaking sunsets. Hiking doesn’t get much better than this.

We did a couple of hikes early on to get us in the mood and get me acclimatized.  Parker Lake, with its golden quaking aspens along the trail and crystal-clear blue lake and Lundy Canyon Trail, with a great overlook sporting golden meadows, aspens, and a lovely waterfall were great starter hikes.

So, I think I’m prepared to stretch myself a bit further, to experience the true grandeur of the Sierras.  To ensure a safe hike and stave off altitude sickness, we have called upon our buddy Paul to call forth the Paiute “Great Spirit”, to guide  us on our journey.  Ok, I’m being a little silly but I love how Paul was captured in this photo so I just had to add it.

Paul calling forth the “Great Spirit” at Lundy Canyon Overlook

On a quest to further prepare myself, our next hike was Yost Lake.  With an elevation gain of 1800 feet and ~ 3.2 miles each way, it was fairly grueling from the time we set boots on the trail.  The alpine lake at the top was the prize and a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch, basking in the sun.

Yost Lake
Balancing act

Yosemite was calling us back so we decided a short hike in the park was not to be missed.  The recommendation given us by a couple of friends was Gaylor Lakes.  Located just inside the eastern entrance to the park, Gaylor Lakes trailhead sits at roughly 10,000 feet, with only a 500 foot elevation gain – easy, right?  Once again straight up we go and then straight down to the lakes.  Terry even said it was a b@!ch of a little hike, and when I caught my breath, I had to agree.

Gaylor Lake

For me, the granddaddy of our hikes in this area was to be Virginia Lakes.  Our traveling buddies Nina and Paul had already tackled it so I knew what to expect. Beginning at an elevation of ~ 9800 feet, it tops out on Summit Pass at 11,140 feet and is roughly 8 miles round-trip.

One of the many splendid Virginia Lakes

Nina and Paul agreed to come along for their second hike to the lakes (oh the beauty of youth!).  With a little trepidation (wondering if my body would remember it does not like these altitudes), we hit the trail.  Winding through aromatic pine forest and past five of the loveliest little alpine lakes, I decided to go for the summit.  Although a little windy and a lot colder at the top, I could not have been happier.  The views from the top were breathtaking!

Nina & Polly at Virginia Lakes
Terry & I on the summit

The Eastern Sierras have given us some of the best hiking we have done.  If you come, be prepared for a hiking high that will challenge and inspire you.  The beauty here is nothing short of heavenly.  But all good things must come to an end, and with temps dipping into the 20’s at night, it’s time to head south to Bishop.

Miner’s camp on Virginia Lakes trail

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Oh Yeah ~ Oh! Ridge NFS Campground, June Lake, CA

June Lake

We have taken the drive into the Eastern Sierras on US 395 and it is simply a breathtaking slice of California!  Although a slow starter, Autumn is finally announcing her arrival. Once again we have met up with our buddies Nina and Paul at the Oh! Ridge NFS campground overlooking June Lake and, oh yeah, this is something special.  There is so much to do here that a month would not suffice.

Parker Lake Trail fall colors

Nina and Paul have been here a week so they, being the ever-so-gracious hosts, have given us multiple ideas and a number of trails to set off on for viewing fall colors.

Parker Lake

Given that I have a bit of an altitude issue, I am working on acclimatizing myself to hiking at higher elevations.  This campground sits at roughly 7600 feet above sea level so we opted for a nice 4-mile hike to Parker Lake, with an easy 680 foot elevation gain, a great starter hike for me.  Parker Lake is a sparkling little lake nestled into a small canyon at the base of some 12,000 foot peaks of the Sierra Crest.  It is a lovely little prize at the end of the trail.

Next up was a sunrise visit to the Mono Lake Tufa Towers, which Nina said was a must-see and oh yeah, she was not kidding.

Sun breaching the mountains over Mono Lake

Mono Lake is a large, shallow lake that formed more than 760,000 years ago.  Because it has no outlet to the seas, high levels of salts have accumulated, resulting in waters that are 2.5 times saltier and 1000 times more alkaline than the oceans.  With such alkaline waters you would not expect a thriving ecosystem but you would be wrong.  Interestingly enough, brine shrimp and alkali flies are prolific here, and the flies seem happy to live both above and under the water, feasting on the algae that grows in large number here.  The alkali fly larvae were a source of nutrition for the native peoples long ago and continue to be the food choice for the two million annual migratory birds that grace these shores.

Sunrise warming the mountains overlooking Mono Lake

So, what the heck is tufa you ask?  Here at Mono Lake these strange rock formations, which have grown since the existence of this lake, are basically  limestone (calcium carbonate).  The lake water and the calcium in the underwater springs combine to create a chemical reaction, that over centuries lays down layers of limestone to create these bizarre towers.  Had it not been for the water level of the lake dropping precipitously over the past 70+ years, photographers from around the world would not have the pleasure of capturing these odd yet beautiful spires, some reaching heights of over 30 feet.

Tufas awaiting sunrise

Tufas grow many places around the world but Mono Lake has the most active formations and some of what we were viewing in the early morning light have been around since the last Ice Age, when Mono Lake was five times her present size.

Although it was rather brisk at 6:00 am, I cannot tell you the excitement I felt as the sun breached the mountain peaks.  Her fingers first tickled the lake, casting stunning colors and reflections, only to have her reach out minutes later to cast a golden glow on the tufa.  Wow, what a sight!

Almost there!
The sun finally reaches the tufas ~ gorgeous!

After many, many photos, we headed back to the warmth of our vehicle and straight to Silver Lake Cafe for a yummy breakfast and a chance once again to marvel at what we had just witnessed.

Lundy Canyon Overlook
The whole gang at the Lundy Canyon Overlook

From here a quick 3-mile hike up the Lundy Canyon Trail, to a striking overlook showcasing golden aspens and a cascading waterfall, rounded out our day.  Oh yeah, life is good. 🙂

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Serenity

Serenity is  found

in the still-running waters

of  June Lake,

gentle ripples

lazily lapping the shore.

~

As I sit

all alone

early morning sun 

warming my back,

You bring a gift

to the water’s edge.

~

I know

You are here.

Your grace knows no bounds.

 © LuAnn Oburn 2012

Kayaking the Bay ~ Trinidad, CA

Trinidad, population a whopping 367, has a great little lighthouse on the hill and a harbor full of sea stacks draped with doey-eyed harbor seals just waiting to be photographed.  The sun, which many days does not make its appearance until later in the day due to the heavy marine layer, poked out as promised by the locals, so we inflated the Sea Eagle and off we went.

It didn’t take long for us to spot harbor seals and the more we looked the more we saw, some perched on rocks that appeared to be no larger than their bodies.  It looked to be quite the balancing act for some.  Ok, everybody say ahhhh!

We were rewarded with calm waters for our entire time on the bay and the views were just breathtaking.

As the sun started to drop lower in the sky, we decided it was time to head back to the beach where we put in.  We both happened to look up to the sky at the same time and, was it a bird, was it a plane; yes, it was a bird and a big brown pelican at that.  What was most interesting and somewhat alarming was that it was heading straight for us and seemed to want in the boat!  He landed in the water just outside our kayak and was very persistent, continuing to see how we felt about him coming aboard.

My, what a big mouth you have!

Finally, when he decided there was no hitching a ride with us, he moved on as the dinner bell started ringing for him and his friends.  We rounded a sea stack and there in the harbor was the Jumpin’ Jack fishing boat cleaning fish.

Dinner is served!

A line of pelicans and other shore birds anxiously awaited their share.  I think the wayward pelican mistook us for a fishing vessel.  Even with a persistent pelican trailing us, kayaking the bay was an awesome experience!

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The Vibe in Arcata, CA

Ukesperience

There is a vibe goin’ on in Arcata that should not be missed if you are ever around these parts.  This college town of 17,230 residents is home to Humboldt State University and some funky shops, restaurants and interesting little book stores.  Saturday mornings it is also home to a great farmers’ market, a feast for the senses.  Surrounding the perimeter of the town’s central plaza, farmers, beekeepers, flower and food vendors, etc. etc. come together to show off their local wares.

Amazing variety abounds and in the center of the square there is always entertainment.  Today it was to be Ukesperience, a great group of local guys, three playing killer ukulele, one playing percussion and another on drums. Young and old alike were tapping toes, clapping hands, or just outright jammin’ to their folksy tunes.  After shopping we joined the rest of the crowd to listen in, do a little people watching and nosh on some yummy corn and black bean tamales.

A visit to Wildberries, a great little organic market, is a must if for no other reason than to soak in the local hospitality.  On a previous day’s visit we noticed how friendly everyone was, particularly our cashier Janna.  She moved to Arcata from the Central Valley and has never looked back, preferring the cooler temps here.  Today we stopped by again for a few items not found at the farmers’ market and once again found Janna.  As she started to ring us up, she said “hi LuAnn and Terry”.  We were most impressed with the name recall.

Yep, there is a great vibe in this college town, one that will bring us back again before we leave, perhaps to get a little more Ukesperience.

Packin’ their greens

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