Our day began at dawn as we loaded up the truck to take the 90-mile journey into Tonto National Forest. It looked to be a glorious day for a road trip. Our destination was Tonto National Monument, home to the Salado ancient cliff dwellings.
Situated within rugged terrain in the northeastern part of the Sonoran Desert, Tonto National Monument tells the story of the migration of ancient peoples who called this land home and is the setting of two 700-year old cliff dwellings. Recessed into shallow caves, they overlook today what is Roosevelt Lake, but in earlier times was a verdant valley with a river flowing through it.
The first Tonto Basin inhabitants (between 100 and 600 AD) support evidence of some of the earliest farming communities. The river provided fertile ground for many crops until the year 600, when all who had settled here moved on, perhaps due to adverse climate conditions that laid the land barren. No one was to return for another 150 years.
During ancient times tribes migrated to land that was able to supply most of their meager needs. Off and on through the 12th century a constant ebb and flow of settlers marked this land. Periods of drought and flooding caused these huge migrations as farm crops withered or irrigation canals were washed away in the rushing waters, leaving hundreds of acres of useless farmland in their wake.
By the early 13th century, thousands once again called the Tonto Basin their home. New immigrants began seeking refuge in the basin’s upper elevations, perhaps because all the prime Salt River Valley floor was occupied or maybe due to strife between tribes. The cliff dwellings that remain have provided archeologists many clues to their lives.
The structures that stand today, the Lower and Upper Cliff Dwellings, are two of hundreds that once stood in the thriving Tonto Basin. The skeletal remains of the rooms within tell a story of people who flourished and struggled with the changing climates. Dump sites have unearthed many important artifacts, along with the remains of a few, lovingly buried where they lived.
The first written record of the cliff dwellings at Tonto National Monument date back to 1880. What the first Europeans who explored this dwelling found was a much larger, well-preserved structure than we see today. The effects of time, weather, visitation, and vandals have taken their toll, which is why President Theodore Roosevelt intervened in 1907 and declared this site a National Monument.
The Lower Cliff Dwelling, built in 1250 AD, was occupied and maintained for ~100 years and can be viewed as a self-guided tour, a one-half mile paved walk with a 350-foot elevation gain. At its height it housed 20 rooms.
The Upper Cliff Dwelling, also built in 1250 AD, can be seen only by guided tour. Our Park Ranger tour guide Jan has a passion for preserving this site, and gave an excellent tour. Our small group took the 3-mile hike (round trip) into the rugged wilderness, up 600 feet, to the cave which once housed 40 rooms within its depths.
We chose the route back over the Apache Trail. One would think, based on its length (40 miles), that this would be the shortcut, but you would be wrong. Although a part of it is now paved, many miles are rutted dirt road, but passing by some amazing scenery, and the mile-long Fish Creek Hill is not to be missed for some hair-raising fun. Winding, steep, and narrow, if meeting a vehicle coming the other direction, someone must back up to the nearest turn-out. This was once a stagecoach trail that ran through the Superstition Mountains, named after the Apache Indians who traveled through this harsh country.
President Theodore Roosevelt had this to say about the Apache Trail in 1911:
“The Apache Trail combines the grandeur of the Alps, the Glory of the Rockies, the magnificence of the Grand Canyon and then adds an indefinable something that none of the others have, to me, it is most awe-inspiring and most sublimely beautiful.”
We arrived back home just as Mother Nature was painting the sky the most delicate shades of coral and lavender, a delightful ending to the day.
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Paint Your Landscape 
Beautiful. Another good reason to come back and spend more time in AZ. Loved that dusk capture, stunning. I have not seen anything like that. coral and lavender, so far.
We are trying to find some things we had not seen while living in AZ. You can only take so many pictures of cactus!
Beautiful sights.
Thanks Alastair.
I love the gift at dusk – so beautiful
Desert sunsets can be some of the most beautiful. 🙂
Lovely photo story of an interesting place thanks Luann…
My pleasure.
I love your header photo. What beauty!!!
We visited the Cliff Dwellings many years ago. Made me appreciate what I have today.
I have never seen a sky looks so gorgeous as the one in your last photo. God is Good!
Thanks Marsha. I can’t believe we lived in AZ for such a long time and had never visited this site. It is a little out of the way but was worth the trip.
Another great tour of historical sites and another great photo. It’s amazing, that when we live in an area, we don’t really explore. Glad you were able to go back and see more of what you missed before. Thank you.
My pleasure!
When we did fish creek pass last year, I was glad to be on the inside and not on the ledge side. That was a fun day for us as well, but we missed the cliff dwellings….guess we gotta go back.
I like the new look…..your photos look amazing. The storm rolling in should make for interesting skies….happy clicking 🙂
In a past life we used to pull our ski boat out to Apache Lake and had to cross Fish Creek Hill. It is vastly improved since then, having some guard rails along the way. I remember a time when I screamed to be let out of the truck so I could walk the rest of the way down the hill (lol)! Hope you both are tucked in safely somewhere to wait out the storm. 🙂
OMG…..no way! We saw a guy pulling his boat to Apache Lake via Fish Creek Hill and thought he was crazy. Hunkered down at Gilbert Ray Campground watching huge snowflakes drop….unique!
It has rained here all day but on the news tonight we saw snow in central Phoenix, which is unusual. I knew when I heard how much snow Tucson received that I would see a post from Nina, and voila, there it was! The snow is so beautiful but not very conducive to our lifestyle. Be safe and stay warm. 🙂
It was definitely beautiful but more enjoyable in a cabin with a fireplace, if you catch my drift. I think I will need to revamp my upcoming saguaro post with snow capped saguaros.
I agree with the cabin and a roaring fire. Look forward to your post with the snow-capped saguaros. 🙂
What bliss! 🙂 That dawn photo is amazing, LuAnn.
Thanks Sylvia!
Great write up. I’ve now added this to my “to do” list.
Thanks! I am getting some great hiking tips from you as well. 🙂
It’s going on my “to do” list as well. Just wish I could do it right this minute…
It was pretty special! 🙂
Oh how cool! I didn’t even realize there were Cliff Dwellings there! Lovely shots!
Nina
Polly would not have enjoyed the long drive out there but they were certainly interesting. Rainy, chilly day here in Mesa.
Such a lovely narrrative LuAnn ~ and love thes shots — espeacially first and last ones — 🌅 ❤ RL
Thank you dear Robyn. Hope all is well with you. 🙂
What a gift from God this place is…thanks for sharing with us.
My pleasure Laurie. 🙂
So pretty. Inspires me to go hiking/exploring/traveling.
Thank you. I think there is nothing better than getting out into nature.
How lovely! I’ve always had a fondness for the Southwest, and these photos are great inspiration for a future visit!
Thanks Loni. The desert can be quite beautiful except for perhaps in the heat of the summer. 🙂
Wow so many amazing places to see in our very own country!
Pretty cool, huh?! 🙂
Gorgeous shots LuAnn…. especially the first and last. You’re getting some wonderful color at both ends of the day. Wish I could say the same. 😀
Gotta have something good to see along with all these prickly cacti! 🙂
Thank you for all the information..and mother nature had indeed painted it in lovely colors
My pleasure. The desert can be beautiful at sunrise and sunset.
Thanks for sharing,
My pleasure.
Nice post LuAnn. I absolutely love cliff dwellings. We’ve visited Mesa Verde and the Gila Cliff Dwellings. I hadn’t heard of the Tonto area, but will put it on our list. Thanks for the info.
Thanks! We had been to Mesa Verde some years ago but not to the Gila Cliff Dwellings. We may need to check it out.
Beautiful photos and meaningful interpretation. I especially appreciate this guided tour as I probably will not take this trek in person. Thanks for “bringing me along” on this jaunt.
My pleasure Gale. 🙂
A wonderful ‘trip’, LuAnn. I felt as though I was sitting right next to you, enjoying the same sights and learning their history…! And what wonderful images you captured; especially “Mother Nature’s final gift at dusk.”
Sometimes the desert has such nice offerings. 🙂
WAS AMAZING POST AGAIN–THANKS FOR SHARING-REALLY ENJOYED THE SUNSET–AND MAKES US KNOW THAT IS ONE OF THE REASONS PEOPLE LIVE IN AZ–TRAVEL SAFE
Thanks for visiting my little blog Kay. Wish you and Charlie could have made it here this year, although it is quite chilly right now. Hugs to you both. 🙂
It still hurts that I went hiking and was taking pictures of many cacti, but they are not as fascinating as what you showed here. Love the construction of that sacred ground. Looks like just random stones hauled pieces by pieces to build it. Fascination. Awesome capture with the sunrays too ;).
CA has so much to offer, more than AZ I believe, but AZ does it up right with their deserts, especially this time of year and in the spring when the cacti start to bloom. 😉
Epic adventuring and photographing, those ruins remind me of those X-Files episodes with the Anasazi storyline. You really brought to life the history of the place, I absolutely have to visit this place and see if the places live up to your photos.
Thanks for the reminder of the X-Files episodes regarding the Anasazi. Come on over; I’ll be your tour guide. 😉
I just might do that!
😀
How fascinating, i hadn’t heard of the cliff dwellings before! Your pictures are a treat as always Luann. Particularly that gift at dusk 🙂
Thanks Madhu. 🙂
Thank you for the grand tour, LuAnn! President Roosevelt had such a great vision. “Dawn to Dusk Desert Delights” is fascinating, awesome post.
p.s. Don’t know why your recent posts have not come to my “reader” 😕
I’m not sure either. I will check on this. I have had this issue recently with some blogs as well.
Beautiful photos. Our son and his wife are arriving in AZ from WA state and we are going to take this trip. In looking up different information, i see some rate the hike as easy while the description on the government page makes it sound fairly difficult. How did you find the actual hike to the remains? Thanks
Roseanne, if you do any hiking at all, I would say there should be no problem. I would not consider it to be a difficult hike. We are hikers but there were several in our group who did not look to hike very often and they did just fine. Enjoy!
Thanks, I’ll give it a try if I can get through to make the reservation. I’m a senior, but I have been working out. Think I’ll double up on the ellipticle, which I hate! I used to hike a lot about 10 years ago in WA state, which is rich with awesome hikes, views, and cooler weather. Appreciate your taking the time to let me know. Roseanne
No problem. You might want to ask when you make the reservation, for another person’s perspective. Thanks for stopping by Roseanne. 🙂