From the moment we crossed her southern border back in July, Oregon has tugged at our heart-strings. From her rugged, wild coastline, wind-swept beaches, lovely lighthouses, and artistic bridges, to her funky coastal towns and bike-friendly cities, we have loved it all and we will be back.
Today, with somewhat heavy hearts, we turn our rig south. We have created some fabulous memories, reconnected with RV friends and met a few more along the way in this fascinating state.
Terry, Nina, Ellen, Paul & Alex
I leave you with a slideshow of some of the beauty you will find if you travel to Oregon. If you have the chance to visit, DO NOT pass it by. Until we return, farewell Oregon.
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After a week at our “service bay” home, we were on the road once again to continue our exploration of Oregon. Thankfully before leaving Junction City we were able to enjoy an evening with friends John and Janie. We are heading inland for a time, with our first stop being Crater Lake National Park, where we met up with friends Paul and Nina and their RV buddies Alex and Ellen, a delightful couple. This is one of the true beauties of the RV lifestyle, slow-paced, with opportunities to meet new folks and reconnect with others.
Golden meadows and Mt. Thielsen from bike path
We have settled in the Umpqua National Forest, Diamond Lake Campground and are having one of our first experiences with “boondocking”, goin’ naked, no hookups. We’re not nearly as well equipped as our friends, who both have solar panels on their rigs, Paul and Nina sporting 600 watts and Alex and Ellen a whopping 1000 watts. Paul jokes of suffering from “watt envy” when Alex speaks of his solar power (lol).
Besides a visit to Crater Lake NP, which is a definite must, there is much to do here. An 11-mile paved bike path encircles Diamond Lake, providing fantastic views of the lake, the meadows, and dramatic Mt. Thielsen with her horn-shaped peak. Although we have not done, kayaking would be a great way to explore the lake itself.
Me – first views of Crater lakeTerry overlooking Diamond Lake and Mt. Thielsen, from Mt. Bailey trailCleetwood Cove on Crater Lake
The six of us, plus pooch Polly, set out to tackle Mt. Bailey, a strenuous 10-miler to the peak. Mt. Bailey often gets overlooked standing so close to Mt. Thielsen, but she deserved some love too, all 8368 feet of her.
Although we did not summit, 7 miles for me was not bad, and the views were spectacular. I am discovering that months lived at sea level have taken their toll on my hiking at 7000 feet.
Pumice Castle
Fire season has come to Oregon, along with many other western states so our first views of Crater Lake were rather hazy, with smoke collecting in the caldera. We went back on a clearer day and hiked up to Watchman Tower for some better photos.
While a detailed post of Crater Lake National Park is definitely warranted, I will let one who has written before me speak more on her virtues instead. Our friend Nina has written an excellent piece, which you should check out here.
I will leave you with my initial thoughts as I stood looking down into this magnificent deep blue lake for the first time.
The formation of Crater Lake began roughly 7700 years ago, after the cataclysmic eruption of 12,000-foot Mt. Mazama, perhaps the most massive volcanic explosion in the past 640,000 years. This breathtaking lake and its deep sapphire color is the cleanest body of water in the world, cleaner than over 80% of all water flowing from our taps, I have read. With depths reaching 1943 feet and widths ranging from 4.5 to 6 miles, she is an impressive sight, not to be missed.
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What does home mean to you? For full-time RVer’s this question can be a little difficult to answer. Is it where we were born, where we last owned a home, where we spent most of our years, or is it something else entirely?
Our travels have taken us to Junction City, Oregon, just outside Eugene, for some quick maintenance work on our RV, or so we thought. Guaranty RV comes highly recommended so we feel we’re in good hands, albeit hands that we thought would release us within a day, maybe two. This has proven too good to be true.
Fortune did smile on us by way of an accidental meeting of Howard and Linda, “rock stars” of RV Dreams, a couple whose blog we have followed for many years. It seems my husband is getting quite the reputation for stalking, as he hunted down Linda in the customer lounge at Guaranty RV and had a similar experience in Mexico no less, with a couple who are now our close friends. We enjoyed a lovely dinner and visit with Howard and Linda and wish them great success on their upcoming rally.
Our temporary resting place
For those who don’t lead the nomadic lifestyle we do, you cannot appreciate home ever meaning living at a service center while your “house-on-wheels” is lovingly attended to. We disappear during the day while our house is taken over by technicians tweaking this and replacing that. After business hours we move back and get tucked in for the night. Our experience has been different from many who are stationed in Guaranty’s RV lot, although Howard and Linda can also attest to this fun.
The wheels came off!
Our RV is sitting right outside the service bay, wheels off, as we await parts winging their way west, which should arrive Monday. Yes, we could opt to stay in a hotel, but we have a sense of adventure, you see, and this is part of the RV experience (not to mention it’s free)! Hence, we, like most who give the question of home more than a passing glance, do not subscribe to the obvious answer of where our RV is parked but more the feelings that live inside that domicile, the safe, nurturing, loving feelings that our surroundings bring forth, the place where we share our hopes and dreams.
Sitting in an RV service bay can be quite the sensory experience, a cacophony of sights and sounds, not for everyone, and certainly not something we care to do anytime again soon. However, when the door is closed at the end of the day, the feelings of home fill our little house-on-wheels, feelings that we carry with us wherever we go. So, what does home mean to you?
What are your dreams?
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We’ve had one big love affair with Oregon but time only for a brief kiss, a gentle embrace, if you will, with Washington. We have enjoyed this first encounter so we will be back for more. Our days here are drawing to an end so I thought one last time I would pay tribute to this wild, rugged land, mentioning just a few of the great activities and sights we found along the way.
Located 20 miles east and north of the little coastal town of Seaside, the hike up Saddle Mountain is a mere 2.5 miles (5 miles round), but not quite a ‘walk in the park’. The 1650-foot elevation gain gives you a hint of what’s to come and the last 0.5 miles is fairly steep, with wire fencing stretched and staked over the trail to allow some grip (good shoes required).
Me on summit of Saddle Mountain
But if you persevere, the views at the summit are so worth it! We could spot Mounts Ranier, St. Helens, Hood, and Adams all peeking through the haze.
This lovely coastal town 25 miles south of Astoria carries the longstanding honor of “one of the 100 best art towns in America”. It seems that many get her appeal, with over 750,000 visiting annually. This was one of the most pristine beaches we had set foot on during our time in Oregon, dog and horse-friendly to boot!
Cannon Beach with Haystack Rock in background
Sitting just off-shore is Haystack Rock, a chunk of basalt towering 235 feet, one of the largest and most photographed “sea stacks” on the Pacific Coast of North America.
Spanning 84 years, from the Civil War through World War II, Fort Stevens served as the primary military installation at the mouth of the Columbia River. Today it is one of the largest state parks in the country, a sprawling 4200 acres of history and recreational offerings, including 9 miles of biking and hiking trails. With the booming of cannons, a Civil War re-enactment took place over the Labor Day weekend.
Peter Iredale Wreckage
Hop on the bike trail system and head to the beach for a view of the century-old Peter Iredale shipwreck, fog swirling around her skeleton. Ride a few miles further and you arrive at the South Jetty, with a nice viewing platform to watch ships (on clear days) as they enter and leave the Columbia River.
Tour a replica of the 1805-06 winter encampment of the Lewis and Clark Expedition; take a stroll along the Netul River Trail; or drop a kayak into the river here.
With three breweries in Astoria, we decided to check out the one on the riverfront with the funky name of The Wet Dog Café. Both the Poop Deck Porter and Old Red Beard Ale were quite tasty.
Cape Disappointment was named by English Captain John Meares, who, in search of the Columbia River back in 1788, missed the mouth of the river bar and named the nearby headland for his failure. Four years later American Captain Robert Gray crossed the bar and named the river.
Striking views of the Pacific Ocean, Columbia River, not one but two lighthouses (Cape Disappointment and North Head), and The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center await your exploration – lots to see and do here.
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is one of the oldest functioning lighthouses on the West Coast, dating back to 1856, guiding mariners in from the south. The North Head Lighthouse was constructed in 1898 when it was determined that vessels coming from the north were challenged to see Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. Sadly both are in dire need of restoration.
If you are a history buff, The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center is a must-see, in our humble opinion. Perched on a 200-foot cliff looking out over the Columbia River, Pacific Ocean and the North and South Jetties, it tells the story of Lewis and Clark’s daring expedition from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean. Dismal Nitch was the name given by their party to the small cove they were trapped in for six days while they waited out a horrendous pounding given them by Mother Nature. Imagine being huddled together in the elements, miserably cold and wet for six days. I’ll take a pass, thank you very much!
We were so thankful that the sun peeked out and we were able to see this amazing volcano and so grateful to the informative Park Ranger who gave us details we had never read. Take the time to stop at the informative Visitor Centers where you can spend hours scouring literature and photos of Mount St. Helens’ tragic eruptions, particularly the historic explosion that occurred on May 18, 1980 that transformed lives and landscapes forever.
The vertical blast of ash and molten rock that occurred on that fateful day rose thousands of feet into the sky but it was the lateral explosion that was of historic proportions, blowing down forests as far away as 150 miles and killing 57 people, some of whom were volcano watchers, giving moment-by-moment descriptions back to a central command post of what was occurring on the mountain. Spirit Lake, nestled on the north side of Mount St. Helens, was obliterated by the debris brought on by this eruption. One of its residents, 83-year old Harry Truman, refused to leave his lodge and home of over 50 years when the evacuation order was given and was buried under the rubble.
Mount St Helens, compliments of Wikipedia
For months prior to this momentous day, swarms of earthquakes (several hundred a day) were being recorded and a bulge on the northwest side of the mountain was growing 5-10 feet daily, an ominous message of what was to come. When she blew, she created new lakes and her once stately snow-capped peak towering ~9600 feet was reduced by almost 1300 feet.
We have seen some thrilling sights and learned some amazing stories along this coastline that joins two beautiful states. Here’s to those hearty souls who live on the Oregon and Washington coast, to those who love their weather, the kind that gets into your bones, not just caresses your skin. We have loved it too and we will return. But for now, it’s time to head inland for a bit.
Autumn’s calling card on the bank of the Netul River
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Back from our family trip to Ohio, trying once again to recover from the 3-hour time difference. We are staying at another of the many great parks in Oregon, Fort Stevens State Park, which sits out on a tiny finger of land at the mouth of the Columbia River (more about the fort in an upcoming post). When we arrived at this largest of state campgrounds (over 500 sites) it was crawling with families who were most likely squeezing in one last summer vacation before children head back to school. Today, as I sit here looking out our window, it is deliciously quiet and the fog is lazily swirling around the fir trees – quite cozy.
Terry, wandering the streets of Astoria
We are just outside of Astoria, a city founded in 1811, rich in maritime history. Sitting near the mouth of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean, unique shops and interesting little cafes line her streets, but our focus was on perusing the Columbia River Maritime Museum, a must-do by RV “bloggess extraordinaire” Nina of Wheeling It . 🙂She has never led us astray with her suggestions and this time was no exception (thank you Nina). If you are in the area, do check this out and take time to watch their 15-minute movie “Crossing the Bar: Perilous Passage”.
The Columbia River Bar, where the river’s currents collide with the swells of the Pacific Ocean, make for one of the most dangerous bar crossings in the world. The underwater ocean currents can build sandbars 5 to 10 feet high and swells in the winter can climb as high as 40 feet. This stretch of water has been labeled the “Graveyard of the Pacific”, having claimed over 2000 vessels and 700 lives. It can appear serenely majestic and in the blink of an eye can move to wild and turbulent. Because of this treacherous passage, the need for an elite force of professional mariners to guide vessels was realized – enter the Columbia Bar Pilot. It is now a requirement to employ a Columbia River Bar Pilot to guide your vessel through this 17-mile danger zone. The most dangerous part of their job, we have learned, is the boarding of and departure from the vessels, often done by helicopter or special pilot boats. You can watch a video of their daily challenges here.
Astoria-Megler Bridge, compliments of Wikipedia
A unique truss bridge spans the Columbia River between Astoria, Oregon and Point Ellice near Megler, Washington, aptly named the Astoria-Megler Bridge. Her length of 4.1 miles is mighty impressive and she is built to withstand wind gusts of 150 mph, which should tell you a little about the weather patterns here.
Another lofty landmark that begs to be seen, well, actually, it doesn’t have to as it is the highest point in Astoria, is the Astoria Column. Built in 1926 and sitting 600 feet above sea level on Coxcomb Hill, this 125 foot beacon provides views of the Columbia River, Pacific Ocean, Cascade Range and Saddle Mountain, which we hiked the other day. You can capture all these views just standing at her base but to really soak it up, be brave and get movin’ up that spiral staircase (all 164 steps) to the observation deck – wow!
Astoria Column in all her glory!
The interesting detailing on the outside of the column rivals the views from the top, depicting key events that shaped the history of this area; i.e. fur trading, Chinook and Clatsop Indians, Lewis and Clark Expedition, to name a few. The State Seal of Oregon prominently crowns the top. Side note for you history buffs: one of Terry’s must-reads on Lewis and Clark’s expedition is Undaunted Courage, by Stephen Ambrose.
Sampling the local fare is a must when you are in a new city, isn’t it, even if it means veering from the healthy food groups once in a while (see how easy it was for me to justify this). The Bowpicker, an old fishing vessel, has been serving up fish and chips, fresh tuna style, for the past 12 years. Some of the locals say this is the best seafood in town. A little sampling didn’t hurt but is not something I would recommend on a regular basis, and yes, it was worth breaking the diet.
Bowpicker ~ a local delight
Of course, a trip to a new destination for us would not be complete without a visit to a farmers’ market and Sunday is the day. The Astoria Sunday Market looks like a happenin’ place so that’s where you will find us this weekend, in the city where the Columbia River meets the Pacific.
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Paint Your Landscape 