Hiking – Page 5 – Paint Your Landscape

Kiss of Two States ~ Oregon and Washington Coasts

September 10, 2012September 23, 2012LuAnn

power of the pacific — Power of the Pacific

We’ve had one big love affair with Oregon but time only for a brief kiss, a gentle embrace, if you will, with Washington. We have enjoyed this first encounter so we will be back for more. Our days here are drawing to an end so I thought one last time I would pay tribute to this wild, rugged land, mentioning just a few of the great activities and sights we found along the way.

On the Oregon side:

Saddle Mountain State Natural Area

Located 20 miles east and north of the little coastal town of Seaside, the hike up Saddle Mountain is a mere 2.5 miles (5 miles round), but not quite a ‘walk in the park’. The 1650-foot elevation gain gives you a hint of what’s to come and the last 0.5 miles is fairly steep, with wire fencing stretched and staked over the trail to allow some grip (good shoes required).

made it to the top! — Me on summit of Saddle Mountain

But if you persevere, the views at the summit are so worth it! We could spot Mounts Ranier, St. Helens, Hood, and Adams all peeking through the haze.

Cannon Beach

This lovely coastal town 25 miles south of Astoria carries the longstanding honor of “one of the 100 best art towns in America”. It seems that many get her appeal, with over 750,000 visiting annually. This was one of the most pristine beaches we had set foot on during our time in Oregon, dog and horse-friendly to boot!

Sitting just off-shore is Haystack Rock, a chunk of basalt towering 235 feet, one of the largest and most photographed “sea stacks” on the Pacific Coast of North America.

Fort Stevens State Park

Spanning 84 years, from the Civil War through World War II, Fort Stevens served as the primary military installation at the mouth of the Columbia River. Today it is one of the largest state parks in the country, a sprawling 4200 acres of history and recreational offerings, including 9 miles of biking and hiking trails. With the booming of cannons, a Civil War re-enactment took place over the Labor Day weekend.

peter iredale wreckage — Peter Iredale Wreckage

Hop on the bike trail system and head to the beach for a view of the century-old Peter Iredale shipwreck, fog swirling around her skeleton. Ride a few miles further and you arrive at the South Jetty, with a nice viewing platform to watch ships (on clear days) as they enter and leave the Columbia River.

viewing the south jetty — Terry, looking out over the South Jetty

Fort Clatsop National Memorial

Tour a replica of the 1805-06 winter encampment of the Lewis and Clark Expedition; take a stroll along the Netul River Trail; or drop a kayak into the river here.

Astoria Brewery Company

With three breweries in Astoria, we decided to check out the one on the riverfront with the funky name of The Wet Dog Café. Both the Poop Deck Porter and Old Red Beard Ale were quite tasty.

Astoria Sunday Market

Four full blocks lined with booths full of colorful produce, along with some impressive-looking crafts – enough said!

Now for some Washington sightings:

lewis & clark interp center — Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center overlooking the River Bar

Cape Disappointment State Park

Cape Disappointment was named by English Captain John Meares, who, in search of the Columbia River back in 1788, missed the mouth of the river bar and named the nearby headland for his failure. Four years later American Captain Robert Gray crossed the bar and named the river.

Striking views of the Pacific Ocean, Columbia River, not one but two lighthouses (Cape Disappointment and North Head), and The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center await your exploration – lots to see and do here.

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is one of the oldest functioning lighthouses on the West Coast, dating back to 1856, guiding mariners in from the south. The North Head Lighthouse was constructed in 1898 when it was determined that vessels coming from the north were challenged to see Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. Sadly both are in dire need of restoration.

If you are a history buff, The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center is a must-see, in our humble opinion. Perched on a 200-foot cliff looking out over the Columbia River, Pacific Ocean and the North and South Jetties, it tells the story of Lewis and Clark’s daring expedition from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean. Dismal Nitch was the name given by their party to the small cove they were trapped in for six days while they waited out a horrendous pounding given them by Mother Nature. Imagine being huddled together in the elements, miserably cold and wet for six days. I’ll take a pass, thank you very much!

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

We were so thankful that the sun peeked out and we were able to see this amazing volcano and so grateful to the informative Park Ranger who gave us details we had never read. Take the time to stop at the informative Visitor Centers where you can spend hours scouring literature and photos of Mount St. Helens’ tragic eruptions, particularly the historic explosion that occurred on May 18, 1980 that transformed lives and landscapes forever.

The vertical blast of ash and molten rock that occurred on that fateful day rose thousands of feet into the sky but it was the lateral explosion that was of historic proportions, blowing down forests as far away as 150 miles and killing 57 people, some of whom were volcano watchers, giving moment-by-moment descriptions back to a central command post of what was occurring on the mountain. Spirit Lake, nestled on the north side of Mount St. Helens, was obliterated by the debris brought on by this eruption. One of its residents, 83-year old Harry Truman, refused to leave his lodge and home of over 50 years when the evacuation order was given and was buried under the rubble.

mount st helens panoramic view — Mount St Helens, compliments of Wikipedia

For months prior to this momentous day, swarms of earthquakes (several hundred a day) were being recorded and a bulge on the northwest side of the mountain was growing 5-10 feet daily, an ominous message of what was to come. When she blew, she created new lakes and her once stately snow-capped peak towering ~9600 feet was reduced by almost 1300 feet.

We have seen some thrilling sights and learned some amazing stories along this coastline that joins two beautiful states. Here’s to those hearty souls who live on the Oregon and Washington coast, to those who love their weather, the kind that gets into your bones, not just caresses your skin. We have loved it too and we will return. But for now, it’s time to head inland for a bit.

autumn's calling card — Autumn’s calling card on the bank of the Netul River

If you liked this blog post, why not scroll up to ‘Follow Us’ and enter your email address? You just might find something that interests you.

Cool Little Coastal Town ~ Florence, OR

August 12, 2012LuAnn

old town florence boardwalk — Old Town Florence Boardwalk

Nestled between the Siuslaw (Sigh-oo-slaw) River and the Pacific Ocean is the cool little coastal town of Florence.

Logging, agriculture, and commercial fishing have been the mainstays in this little coastal gem but tourism is steadily increasing as the town has been discovered. Florence is a great location to settle for a few days or weeks and branch out to explore.

When we felt the need to change plans earlier this year, Terry began to look at the state parks along the coast for our RV stops, as they had been given great reviews. With high season fast approaching, this became a challenge so we settled on some county parks instead. Armitage in Eugene was a great Lane County park and we’ve found another right here, Harbor Vista. With only 38 sites and lots of vegetation between them, we can’t even see our neighbors and the steady moaning of the foghorn on the jetty lulls us to sleep at night – heavenly.

cozy, secluded camp site — Cozy, secluded camp site

Here are a few things we would recommend should you find yourself wandering these parts:

historic siuslaw river bridge — Historic Siuslaw River Bridge

1) Old Town Florence

Sitting right on the riverfront, Old Town has some great little boutique shops and restaurants and a quaint little harbor. The view of the 1936 Art Deco Siuslaw River Bridge makes for quite the lovely backdrop.

toes in the sand, feeling like a kid — Toes in the sand, feeling like a kid!

2) Florence Beach

The beaches we have seen thus far in Oregon are so rugged and wild, with piles of bleached logs strewn along the shores like old bones. This beach is no different and is a peaceful place to explore near sunset. We spent some time visiting with a couple who settled here from Eugene 9 years ago. They say the fishing is grand and they often find little treasures that have washed ashore, like Japanese glass floats used in fishing nets.

terry bracing against the wind — Terry bracing against the wind on the jetty

3) South Jetty

Head to the south side of town; turn onto South Jetty Road; park in one of the lots; and head to the beach. Just getting there requires a little effort to traverse the sand dunes but the reward is another lovely windswept beach where you can walk for miles. We headed over to the south jetty after our walk and decided to watch the kite surfers as this seemed the perfect activity for this windy day. Amazing what some of these guys can do!

4) Dune Buggies

On our way back from the jetty, we heard a deafening roar so stopped to check it out. Dune buggies and ATV’s were tearin’ up the sand and it’s no wonder many accidents occur on these vehicles as we watched the mayhem on the dunes. With vehicles flying in every direction, heading up steep dunes, not knowing what may be coming at you at any given moment, I was quite surprised but thankful we did not witness an accident while we sat there. I only have two words for those who take part in this sport – TOTALLY CRAZED!

cape perpetual — Shoreline from St. Perpetua Trail summit

5) Cape Perpetua/Heceta Head Lighthouse

Venture out about 10 miles north of Florence on Route 101 to Cape Perpetua, where you will find a stunning headland jutting out into the Pacific. Named by Captain James Cook in March 1778, as he sighted it on Saint Perpetua’s Day, it became part of the Siuslaw National Forest in 1908.

The Civilian Conservation Corps carved out a network of trails, built an observation point overlooking the coast, as well as a campground in this 2700 acres of old-growth spruce, Western hemlock and Douglas fir. The Forest Service followed that up with a Visitors’ Center in the 60’s and today it’s a popular spot for whale watching and exploring tidal pools.

At high tide when the ocean is turbulent, which it was not on the day we visited (insert heavy sigh here), there are some striking features to enjoy along this section of coastline. Spouting Horn, a unique salt-water fountain, Thor’s Well, a powerful force of nature, and Devil’s Churn, a long crack in the coastal rock that fills with ocean waves that occasionally explode when incoming and outgoing waves collide are wonders I just had to be satisfied to see through photos. Check out Thor’s Well here, Spouting Horn here, and Devil’s Churn right here.

Take the 2.6 mile hike to the summit on the St. Perpetua Trail and you will be rewarded with some fabulous views of the coastline from the West Shelter Observation Point.

Travel another 2 miles and you SHOULD be able to see some stunning views of the Heceta Head Lighthouse. We knew there would be no tours available for this grand lighthouse that sits 205 feet above the ocean as it is undergoing an extensive renovation project which will last into late summer 2013. What we did not know was that the entire tower is shrouded in black, almost as if she is mourning that she can’t be on display for all to see. It was a disappointment but just means we will have to come back!

6) Umpqua River Lighthouse

Six miles south of Reedsport or roughly 26 miles south of Florence stands the lovely Umpqua River Lighthouse. Of the 9 lighthouses adorning the Oregon coastline, hers is the only one with a distinctive red and white Fresnel lens. The very first Oregon coast lighthouse was erected on the northern spit of river here in 1857. The one standing today is the second Umpqua River Lighthouse as the first crumbled into the river in 1861 when her foundation eroded. This currently functioning lighthouse was built instead on the south side of the bay, standing 165 feet in elevation, with a 65 foot tower. Tours are scheduled when enough tourists are gathered together, which unfortunately was not during our visit.

By the time we end our Oregon wanderings, we will probably have seen 8 of the 9 lighthouses and I will most likely honor them with their own post.

terry trekking up the dunes — Terry trekking up the dunes

7) John Dellenback Dunes Trail

Six miles south of Reedsport is the John Dellenback Dunes Trail, highly recommended by our fabulous tour guides and RV buddies, Nina and Paul of Wheeling It. In some respects I am saving the best for last, or perhaps the most entertaining, at least to us. We were told this is a seldom traveled trail and as we ventured out the reasons became obvious.

I may have mentioned in a past post that I have an almost non-existent sense of direction, and if you do as well, DO NOT attempt this by yourself, particularly on a very breezy day as this one was. This is a ~6-mile trail, with 4 of those miles done slogging through loose dunes, some BIG ones. Your navigational aids are posts with blue striping to guide you to the ocean. Imagine a trail that takes you through the forest, scampering up tall dunes, and dumps you off on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, and that would be the John Dellenback Dunes Trail. Just for fun, throw in a little wind (or a lot in this case) to toss the sand around a bit, giving you a free nature-made facial, and if you walk through these loose sands in your bare feet (and you really must), a pedicure to boot! I mused to hubby that if we shed a few more articles imagine how polished our skin would be (he wasn’t biting)!

navigational aid — Navigational aid when seen through the blowing sand!

With the wind whipping around us and sand blowing everywhere, we thought about stories we had read of people getting lost in real deserts. At one point, as we scaled a large dune, Terry yelled “this is insane!” but he did have a smile on his face.

Call me crazy, call me senseless, I laughed throughout the journey and had a total blast! This is a must if you are looking for a different kind of hike, one that will TOTALLY work your legs and backside.

There is definitely lots happenin’ in and around this cool little coastal town so come on over!

If you liked this blog post, why not subscribe to my blog via feed reader or e-mail?

Hike, Bike, Kayak ~ Eugene’s Triple Treat

August 7, 2012LuAnn

In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks. ~ John Muir

historic covered bridge — Currin Bridge – built in 1925. Only Lane County bridge with white portals and red siding.

If you are an RVer, by definition you are probably a nature lover, and we are no exception. We feel blessed to be able to have these experiences and are finding Eugene to be a city that shares our passions – hiking, biking, and kayaking.

Eugene, city of ~156,200 residents and home to the University of Oregon, is known for biking, running/jogging, rafting, and kayaking.

We read that biking is so popular here that in 2009 the League of American Bicyclists named Eugene one of the top 10 “gold-level” cities because of its “remarkable commitment to bicycling” and in 2010 was cited the 5th most bike-friendly city in America by Bicycling magazine. Eugene is definitely being added to our come-back-again list.

Thanks to a tip from RV buddies Nina and Paul of Wheeling It, we hiked the Ridgeline Trail to the summit of Spencer Butte, an in-town hike on the city’s south side.

outdoor adventure — Spencer Butte summit

This 5.5 mile round-trip hike is fairly easy for the first 5 miles, with the last 0.5 miles a moderate scramble over rocks to the summit. The views overlooking the city are quite nice and it’s a great place to share a picnic. As we headed down I overheard a woman telling her young son about how rattlesnakes in the area like to sun themselves on the summit’s rocks. It wasn’t more than 15 minutes later but what should I find right in front of me but a Northern Pacific rattlesnake. Since I wasn’t about to get close enough to grab a photo and he was just as anxious to get away from us, here is what he looked like. Terry and I agreed that we hadn’t really thought much about rattlesnakes since leaving Arizona but hey, why wouldn’t they want to hang out in a cool city like Eugene?

We managed to squeeze in another great bike ride, this time on the Row River Trail. Although technically in a suburb of Eugene, Cottage Grove, it is an easy 20 mile drive to some great biking action. If you choose to make the loop around Dorena Lake, you could be happily spinning for 34 miles . We stopped at the 20 mile mark and enjoyed a picnic lunch along the lake instead. This trail is nicely paved and takes you past not only the lake but great meadows, horse properties, and historic covered bridges – a fabulous way to spend a day!

mosby bridge — Mosby Bridge – built in 1920

The McKenzie River flows beside the Armitage County Park where we are staying and was a very convenient and lovely river to kayak. The put-in point we opted for was 8 miles upstream from us. Class I and a few Class II rapids mark this stretch of the McKenzie, just enough to keep you on your toes, a gentle reminder to pay attention to hidden boulders, fallen trees, and swirling eddies. We had a blast but with the swift current, our fun ended too soon. Next time we would opt for another put-in point which would extend the journey another 15 miles and add several more Class II rapids we are told.

mckenzie river put-in point — McKenzie River put-in point

If exercising is not your thing, Eugene has a plethora of offerings. They are also known for their arts program so there is something here for everyone.

luscious, mouthwatering wild blackberries — Luscious, mouth-watering wild blackberries

If you just want to chill and enjoy the fruits of summer, grab a basket and step outdoors. There are wild blackberry bushes everywhere (and I do mean everywhere) just now starting to ripen. August and September are the months and these luscious berries can be found growing along country roads, bike paths, rivers, and even in the Interstate 5 median!

Our time in Eugene has sadly come to an end. With the biking, hiking, and kayaking available here, outdoor fun awaits right outside your door. We are headed back to the coast for what is sure to be another grand adventure.

If you liked this blog post, why not subscribe to my blog via feed reader or e-mail?

The Trail Less Traveled ~ Sky Trail to Sculptured Beach ~ Point Reyes, CA

July 9, 2012LuAnn

Oft times it is the trail less traveled that rewards us with the most treasures. Expansive vistas, fern-covered forest floors full of rich, earthy smells, colorful berries and wildflowers, busy bees at work, trilling of songbirds, and the powerful surging of ocean tides on sculptured rocks await those who dare to venture these paths.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

These are just a few of the sights, sounds, and smells we experienced on the Sky Trail > Woodward Valley Trail > Coast Trail down to Sculptured Beach, a moderate 10-mile round trip of pure delight!

If you liked this blog post, why not subscribe to my blog via feed reader or e-mail?

The Hiking is Fine ~ Yosemite National Park (Part 2)

June 22, 2012LuAnn

The temperature is soaring, mid-90’s most days, but hope is on the horizon with 80’s now showing up on the radar for this weekend. Even with the hotter weather, the hiking is fine if you head up into the higher elevations, which is definitely not tough to do in this park, given the 800 miles of hiking trails.

way down in the valley — Way down in the valley from Taft Point.

We have not been as aggressive about our hikes in Yosemite, which is ok with both of us as we are taking more time to wrap ourselves in the heart-stirring views along the way. A hiker whom we crossed paths with in Kings Canyon NP told us a must was Yosemite’s Glacier Point at sunset, to watch the changing hues reflected from Half Dome. This was to be our destination, with a couple of short side hikes along the way.

At the trailhead, which splits off left to Taft Point and right to Sentinel Dome, we veered to the left, to the “Glacier Point without the guard rails”. Unlike Glacier Point, which can be driven to, this overlook must be hiked so you have to earn the view.

one enormous fissure — That’s one big fissure!

As you approach Taft Point, you will see five fissures, giving the appearance of some mythical monster having attempted to claw his way to the top from the valley 3000 feet below. Be careful here as one false move and you can kick your butt goodbye!

Once you gingerly hop around the gaping holes in the ground and make it to the lookout point (which does have a guard rail thankfully), you are rewarded with the more prominent views of the Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, and Yosemite Falls. We arrived early afternoon, not the best time to take photos of the valley, as it was a little washed out and hazy. Even with haze this hike proved to offer some of the more spellbinding views we had seen yet.

on the edge at taft point — Hey Gaga, I’m on the edge!

taft point boulder — My big strong he-man tryin’ to impress his woman!

When you tire of all the raw beauty, you can connect up with the Sentinel Dome trail or the Pohono Trail, the latter of which we opted for to add a couple more miles and some uphill to our day (thank you honey!). If you are really feeling great or just plain crazed, you can tackle all 13 miles of the Pohono Trail, for an elevation gain of ~3700 feet!

enroute to sentinel dome — Enroute to Sentinel Dome (Yosemite Falls in background)

Spectacular views of the valley awaited us as we wandered along the bluffs and into the forests. As we continued to switchback up and the forest opened, Sentinel Dome made her appearance, as promised. From here, we head back to the trailhead; hop in the car; and drive to Glacier Point for a picnic dinner and a cool sunset. Our total hike for the day was roughly 6 yummy miles of views, views and more views.

half dome and surrounding peaks nearing sunset — Half Dome and surrounding peaks nearing sunset

Just a mere 1/4 mile hike will bless you with panoramic views of Yosemite Valley and all her surrounding peaks, including Mt. Lyell, highest peak in the park, standin’ tall at 13,120 feet, proudly sporting a small glacier. Half Dome stands in the forefront ready to dazzle you with her changing lights. She taunts extreme hikers with her sheer cliffs, as well she should, as she can claim the bragging rights for the toughest hike in the park. On a scale of 1 – 10, I have read she is an extreme 11. A 4800 foot elevation gain should speak for itself! The last 400 feet of this sheer vertical granite wall must be done with cables, pulling yourself along as you contemplate your mortality! Without these it would be impossible and is not permitted when there is any sign of precipitation.

mariposa grove museum — Mariposa Grove Museum, sitting among the giants.

Another area for exploring is that of the Mariposa Grove, the forest of giant sequoia. To walk among the giants here is pretty special but once you have been to Sequoia and Kings Canyon, we had to agree that these at Yosemite may have to take a back seat. We decided to make this an exercise hike, opting to traipse through the forest to Wawona Point, a moderate 6-mile hike. Probably the most charming character we met at Wawona was a raven, who was determined to befriend Terry. He just was not taking no for an answer, coming back time and again, each time alighting just a little closer, showing us he had no fear. We both suspect he was desperate for a handout!

In this magical place where the hiking is fine, it is time to call it a day. As we head out of the park, darkness envelopes the mountains and creeps down into the valley.