Travels – Page 15 – Paint Your Landscape

Discovering Lopez Island

September 16, 2015LuAnn

Adopt the pace of nature; her secret is patience ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

I believe that the heartbeat of a community can be found in the values embodied by the locals and how well they nurture their land. Lopez Island’s heartbeat is strong, pure, vibrant.

There is a distinctive chill to the air, signaling the approach of a new season. Dusk creeps in early and brings the darkness with it. Summer is waning, and with it our time on Lopez Island. I can only imagine how lovely this island looks with her landscape splashed with reds and golds – perhaps another time.

For the past six weeks we’ve been camp hosting at Spencer Spit State Park, and an amazing six weeks it has been, from the moment we drove off the ferry. The staff here has been so welcoming, and we feel blessed to have spent time with each and every one of them. And the opportunity to co-host with our friends Laurel and Eric made this experience darn near perfect.

Lopez Island is the least hilly of the four main islands comprising the San Juans. Its high cliffs, beautiful coastline, and rolling farmland make it very popular with both kayakers and cyclists. We have enjoyed both while here.

Countless farms dot the landscape, a dream for painters and landscape photographers. The wonderful pastured meats and organic fruits and vegetables they produce for the local groceries, restaurants and farmstands on the island are incredible. There has even been a seed library created to further strengthen the local food system. These folks know a thing or two about land stewardship. With all this delicious, healthy food being lovingly raised, it is no wonder Lopez has a wonderful little farmers’ market each week.

Lopez Village, no more than a few blocks square, contains at least four farm-to-table restaurants, a phenomenal bakery, gourmet ice cream produced from their local creamery, bookstore, shops, and galleries. And this small community sports two grocery stores, both focused on organic fare.

The library, once the old red schoolhouse, carries an amazing variety of books and DVD’s. They have an online learning center and even rent out musical instruments. When being presented with my library card, I was warmly greeted with “consider this your second home”.

Lopez Island is filled with a talented array of musicians and artists, encompassing many genres. Thanks to an invite by Laurel and Eric, we sat in on a rehearsal for one local group, Super Wide Groove, whose members have become close friends of theirs. These are some seriously talented musicians. Along with the many musicians on the island, there are an equal number of artists. We were on Lopez to attend the annual Studio Tour, featuring 28 of these creative souls, and I’m sure there is much more talent out there. After what we had seen, I was beginning to wonder if anyone is allowed to live here if they are not artistically inclined…unbelievable.

Our last little adventure on Lopez was a visit to the island’s winery, Lopez Island Winery, where we enjoyed a glass of their Madeleine Angevine in a garden overflowing with flowers. This is also where we met Dante and Lisa, a lovely couple from Fort Collins, CO who had ferried over from Anacortes, then biked to the winery.

A special thanks to Z and Tom, our newfound friends we met earlier this year, who ferried over from Anacortes to join us for lunch. We look forward to seeing them again this winter.

We have been enriched by our time on Lopez, thanks to the locals and the beauty we found in nature. I see return trips in our future. 🙂

Watch the slideshow below for a tour of this magical little island.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The Emerald Isle ~ Orcas Island, WA

September 12, 2015September 13, 2015LuAnn

Commonly called the Emerald Isle, with its lush forested hillsides, Orcas Island is the largest of the San Juan Islands. Looking like two saddlebags or some might say a horseshoe, with the most populated village of Eastsound connecting the two, it has the largest mountain in the islands, rugged coastline, and rural countryside. Old apple orchards and remnants of turn-of-the-century prune-drying barns could be seen as we wound our way around the island.

Biking is said to be a big sport with locals and tourists alike, but its steep hills and winding roads did not call out to us. We much preferred the rolling hills on Lopez Island for our two-wheeled adventures.

If you were looking to take to the trails, this would be the island for you. These hikes may not be of the same caliber as those we enjoy in the national parks and other well-known western trails, but a girl can only be without her hiking boots for so long. We had read that Turtleback Mountain Preserve near Deer Harbor offered some nice trails so we decided to investigate. The lovely 3-mile Turtleback Mountain south hike didn’t necessarily take our breath away with only an 830’ elevation gain, but the views from the lookout most certainly did.

And of course, after a hike it is important to replenish fluids, right? 😉 How could we turn down the opportunity to taste test a flight of craft beer from the only brewery on the island – Island Hoppin’ Brewery? It seemed many others felt the same way, as it was rockin’ when we arrived. Our favorite, no surprise, was the Oatmeal Stout.

The highest point on Orcas, at 2409’, Mt. Constitution, can also be hiked and is where you will find the tower. Climb to the top and you are looking out over island-studded waters and snow-capped Mt. Baker, provided the stars are aligned and you are blessed with clear views We had neither a clear day nor anyone manning the Learning Center, but luckily we had seen some beautiful images atop Mt. Constitution already, thanks to Nina of Wheelingit.

We were nearby the historic Rosario Resort, and thanks to a friend’s recommendation, we decided to tour the property. Shipbuilder Robert Moran, who held a deep respect for nature, hand craftsmanship and the arts, constructed this striking resort. His meticulous eye could be seen throughout as we walked the resort and grounds. A presentation of the history of this unique building, via film and music, rounded out our time there.

Eastsound, one of a few of the little villages dotting the island, was a great place to grab a meal and wander the shops. We enjoyed a great farm-to-table salmon salad at an Asian café, The Kitchen.

Like other islands in the San Juans, the arts play a big role in the culture of this island as well, with local artists’ work featured in many of the shops and galleries. If you enjoy pottery, a visit to Orcas Island Pottery should be on your list. For more than 60 years it has been a destination for those visiting the San Juans, being the oldest pottery studio in the Northwest. Just a few miles from Eastsound this quaint cottage studio is tucked into a forest of old-growth cedar and Douglas fir, overlooking the President’s Channel. The cottage, outbuildings, and the yards are filled with colorful, creatively designed pottery in all shapes and sizes. And a grey whale graced us with an appearance in the channel off the back of the property.

Confined by the ferry schedule, we had to leave exploration of the south end of the island for another visit. I am confident that will happen. 🙂

It All Began With a Pig ~ San Juan Island, WA

September 8, 2015LuAnn

San Juan Island, second largest in the San Juan Island Archipelago, is the most populated of all the islands. At high tide over 400 islands and rocks dot these waters, 128 of which are named. San Juan Island is one of four accessible by ferry.

One wouldn’t know it now, but this quiet little island was once on the brink of an international conflict between two world super powers, the British and the U.S.

The Pig War, a confrontation in 1859, spurred by the shooting of a pig, escalated to a boundary dispute between these two countries, both claiming rights to the island. Luckily no blood was shed. Well, not exactly true…there was the pig. Today remnants of both the American and British camps are available for touring.

Homesteaders moved in after this conflict, taking to the sea. Salmon fishing and harvesting clams and oysters was big business until the 20^th century when the island vibe shifted to a gentler pace, focusing on nature and wildlife. Today the island draws those seeking outdoor adventures, kayaking, fishing, whale watching, and boating.

As the ferry docked at Friday Harbor, a vibrant seaport lay before us, filled with boutique shops, cafes, museums, and galleries, many honoring the natives, first inhabitants of the island. It is a town devoted to art, with festivals scattered throughout the year showcasing the unique talents of the local artists.

We made Demeter Bakery our first stop for great coffee and delicious pastry and when hunger pangs announced lunchtime, we headed to Market Chef for a yummy sandwich and salad.

A few of our favorite stops were the Arctic Raven Gallery, featuring intricate Indian carvings and colorful Arctic and coastal native art, wonderful little Griffin Bay Bookstore, and the San Juan Islands Museum of Art, where we were treated to a rare glimpse of Susan Middleton’s fascinating exhibit, Spineless: Portraits of Marine Invertebrates, the Backbone of Life, and a unique installation called Liminal Currents.

As we lie on the floor, looking up at the swaying branches we experienced the dancing underwater world as perceived by an animal such as the orca, who uses sound to understand spatial relationships within its environment. Orca generated sounds, from the residents pods in the San Juans, have been added to enhance the experience.

I spent a few moments writing an intention, which I tied with ribbon to part of the linear sculpture. At the wrap-up of the exhibit, the contents, branches, and messages will be gathered and burned, “transforming the scribed energy into light”.

As we moved beyond Friday Harbor, a diverse landscape opened before us – pastoral farmland, driftwood-strewn beaches, and bluffs overlooking island-dotted shimmering water.

The hike up Mt. Finlayson, a lovely walk through Douglas fir and red-barked madrona trees, provided us a birds-eye view of Cattle Point Lighthouse from the top.

Lime Kiln Point, a day use park, is considered one of the première places in the world to view whales from land. Orcas are often spotted here but on our visit, gulls, terns, and an occasional oystercatcher were the only wildlife. This is where the little sentinel Lime Kiln Lighthouse stands watch, a navigational aid still today for ships traversing Haro Strait.

We passed on a whale-watching trip while in Port Townsend, joining Laurel and Eric (Raven & Chickadee) instead on a tour booked through Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching, where we grabbed the last remaining seats. Caption Jim uses a smaller boat for a more intimate experience, sprinkling in some history of the area as well. We had heard that it was the best tour around, and being two of only seven on the boat, we had to admit it was pretty special.

A quick stop to Roche Harbor, a charming marina harboring some of the most beautiful yachts in the world, and we took to sea in search of orca.

Before long a resident pod sighting was confirmed in an area they are seldom found, off the shore of Spencer Spit State Park, right where we are volunteering. It seems we needed to board a ferry to San Juan, hop on a whale-watching boat, and return back to the very spit we have walked most days since arriving on Lopez, just to see these beautiful creatures. Go figure!

(Not very clear shots but gives a perspective of how close these amazing creatures were to the spit.)

For their safety, we had to stay within 200 yards of the orcas, so my camera could not do these beauties justice. Captain Jim graciously allowed me to share some of his stunning photos.

The above images are photo courtesy of Captain Jim of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching. If you plan a whale-watching trip on San Juan Island, we highly recommend this tour company for a more intimate experience. You won’t be disappointed. 🙂

A visit to the Sculpture Garden near Roche Harbor rounded out our visits to San Juan Island. We know there is much more to see, giving us reason to return.

We are most grateful to Laurel and Eric, for introducing us to the islands that have become their second home, providing us great recommendations, and including us on the whale-watching adventure. You two are the best!

Next Up: Orcas Island

Discovering Unexpected Treasures on Whidbey Island, WA

September 2, 2015September 2, 2015LuAnn

Crossing the Admiralty Inlet from Port Townsend, we ferried over to our next Washington adventure, Whidbey Island, the longest island in the lower 48 states. For the next three days we would have our own personal tour guides, Frank and Mary, eager to impart their knowledge of the rich history of the island. This lovely couple is our winter next-door neighbor and had extended this generous offer before we left So Cal in May, which also included a private “mooch-docking” site in their driveway…sweet!

A beautiful Whidbey Island sunset looking out over the lagoon at Frank and Mary's — A beautiful Whidbey Island sunset looking out over the lagoon at Frank and Mary’s

Whidbey Island boasts five state parks and America’s first national historic reserve, Ebey’s Landing. And the views of the Olympic Mountains and pristine seas are breathtaking. Let’s go exploring!

Beginning in the town of Coupeville, where Frank and Mary live, we stepped back into the 19^th century as we strolled the finely preserved Victorian downtown and wharf overlooking Penn Cove, one of the only remaining original wharfs and wharf building in the Pacific Northwest. Getting into the local groove, we dined on world-famous Penn Cove mussels at Toby’s and gourmet ice cream bars at Lavender Wind. This quaint town, the second oldest in Washington, sits within Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve.

Here is a glimpse of what our lovely tour guides had on the agenda for our stay:

1/ Fort Ebey State Park

Once a coastal defense fort during World War II, it is now a state park with a cozy campground tucked in the woods. We took a hike along the bluff with views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains, then down into the kettles, with Frank offering a brief history lesson on these Ice Age geologic formations.

2/ Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve

This, the first national historic reserve in our nation, preserves the 1850’s character of its 25 square miles, including farmland, beaches, parks, trails, and nationally registered historic buildings. A feeling of serenity flowed as we walked the paths and looked out over farmland and shimmering seas.

3/ Fort Casey State Park

World War I gun batteries and bunkers can still be seen in this state park, along with miles of hiking trails, camping and fully restored Admiralty Head Lighthouse. Fort Casey Underwater Park is nearby for you scuba lovers.

4/ Admiralty Head Lighthouse

This stately lighthouse, companion to Point Wilson Lighthouse sitting four miles away in Port Townsend, on Admiralty Inlet’s western shore, was deactivated in the early 1920’s. In 2012 a historic reconstruction of the lantern house was installed atop the tower. Student volunteers from three Whidbey Island high schools completed all the work…very impressive.

4/ Lavender Wind Farm

Clouds billowing over a lavender labyrinth

On a much smaller scale than Sequim, Coupeville’s Lavender Festival was still very sweet. Educational talks, strolls through gently swaying aromatic fields, and walking a lavender labyrinth added to the joy of the day.

5/ Greenbank Farm

Living history Greenbank Farm, a gathering place since its start in 1904, is home to beautiful gardens, café, farm and gift shop, and art galleries. But it is perhaps most known for its Organic Farm School, organic seed project, community gardens, and Naturalist Training Program. This is a place I would love to explore in more depth.

6/ Captain Whidbey Inn

This lovingly restored 1907 historic inn overlooks Penn Cove and the world-famous Penn Cove mussel rafts. This inn’s rooms are reminiscent of Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone NP.

Our short stay with Frank and Mary was a whirlwind of activity but what will linger most is the deepening friendship forged. Early evenings spent on their deck over a glass of wine, dinners revisiting the day’s adventures, Mary’s morning T’ai Chi Chih classes on the deck, surrounded by gentle breezes and soothing music, while eagles soared and kingfisher chattered, these are the memories that fed our spirits. Pure gratitude is what I feel when I think of these two generous souls.

We left after three days, content with the knowledge that there would be many more memories made when we see them again this winter. A brief stop at Deception Pass State Park, with a hike down to the beach and a walk out over the iconic bridge to peer into the turbulent waters, rounded out our sightseeing on this wonderful island.

We spent a couple of nights at Washington Park in Anacortes to round out our time on Whidbey Island and prepare ourselves to catch a ferry to the San Juan Islands. As luck would have it, our good friends from Colorado, Kevin and Erin, were in town visiting Erin’s mother Sally. We spent a leisurely evening at Sally’s home enjoying a dinner prepared by Kevin, our wine, coffee, tea, and foodie connoisseur. We have spent countless engaging hours of conversation over many of Kevin’s culinary treasures and we walked away once again in awe of his talent. Although I didn’t capture this time with photos, we will never forget the lovely conversation and generous nature of these two. So glad we were able to meet Erin’s mother as well, a delightful woman. Thank you for a wonderful ending to our time on Whidbey Island.

Next Up: San Juan Island

Rugged, Unbroken Wilderness ~ Neah Bay, WA

August 26, 2015LuAnn

“…But for us there was no wilderness, nature was not dangerous but hospitable, not forbidding but friendly. Our faith sought the harmony of man with his surroundings; the other sought the dominance of surroundings. For us, the world was full of beauty; for the other, it was a place to be endured until he went to another world. But we were wise. We knew that man’s heart, away from nature, becomes hard.” ~ Chief Luther Standing Bear

Neah Bay, home to the Makah Tribe, was to be our last stop on the Olympic Peninsula. Ancestral Makah were highly skilled mariners who traversed the treacherous waters of the Pacific with relative ease, and their tradition as fishermen remains today. Wanting to learn more about this proud people, our first stop was the Makah Cultural and Research Center.

This small museum is recognized as our nation’s finest tribal museum, with a stately totem pole gracing the entrance, a full-size longhouse replicated, and four cedar dugout canoes displayed. The finest artifacts are those extracted from an archeological dig in nearby Ozette. This felt like sacred space to me, so it was not surprising that photography was prohibited.

Beginning in 1970 and continuing for 11 years, the Makah Tribe and Washington State University collaborated to recover over 55,000 artifacts from Ozette, a village just south of Neah Bay that once served as one of five year-round homes for the Makah. A tragic mudslide changed all that in the early 20^th century when a group of longhouses was entombed, preserving them and their contents for over 500 years. This center is the sole repository for those findings.

The orientation film we watched included several interviews with local residents, whose passion for maintaining their ancestral traditions was clearly evident. The last fully fluent Makah speaker died in 2002, but there are still elders who remember something of the language today, and young Makah are working to keep their ancestral language alive. The center houses the Makah language program used in the schools still today to preserve and teach their native tongue.

For our short stay in Neah Bay we chose to camp at Hobuck Beach Resort, a no-frills campground that is nothing more than a grassy field for dry camping, but it serves its purpose. The sound of the nearby beach lulled us to sleep at night.

The next morning dawned clear, a perfect day I hoped for viewing Cape Flattery Lighthouse and the rugged coastline. And if you are lucky, unlike us, puffins may be seen bobbing in the cold waters offshore. A short hike through fern-draped forest brought us to the furthest northwestern edge of the lower 48, Cape Flattery, with sunny, unobstructed views of untamed coastline and a sole sentinel, Cape Flattery Lighthouse, sitting one-half mile off the cape on Tatoose Island. First built in 1854 with a 65-foot tower, it is one of the oldest lighthouses in our nation and is now deactivated. Due to its archeological significance and a home for nesting birds, the Makah restrict access to the island.

Don’t be deceived by the façade. Magic happens within.

After reading other blogger posts, I was determined not to leave Neah Bay without a stop at Take Home Fish Company, aka Kimm’s Place. The thought of melt-in-your-mouth smoked salmon danced in my mind as we pulled up to the curb, kicking my salivary glands into high gear. I could almost taste the buttery flesh. But the greeting we received stopped me in my tracks. They had just sold their last morsels. 😦 We had one more shot tomorrow for this delicacy.

Feeling a bit dejected, we settled instead for lunch at Linda’s Wood-Fired Kitchen, where Terry recognized one of the speakers from the film at the Makah Center the previous day. He was one of the village artisans, a master at carving totem poles.

The marine layer was determined to join us the next morning as we prepared for our final hike on the Olympic Peninsula. With swirling fog tendrils reaching out to us through the old-growth forest, we made our way to Shi Shi (pronounced ‘shy shy’) Beach. An interesting 2-mile hike, with the use of ropes near the end, led to a sandy beach with tumbled sea stacks and roaring surf. Lingering fog added a mysterious quality to the day. We continued our hike another two miles down the beach to Point of Arches, where low tide provided views of ochre stars. Normally we would have stayed longer to play in the tide pools but there was another treasure drawing us back to town. I was not about to miss our window of opportunity at Kimm’s again.

Pulling up to the ramshackle blue trailer for a second time, we found the salmon still in the smoker, but the proprietor took pity and pulled out everything that was ready. Oh my, this was by far the best salmon we had ever put into our mouths…a perfect ending to our time in Neah Bay.

Next Up: To the Islands