Discovering Lopez Island

Adopt the pace of nature; her secret is patience ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

I believe that the heartbeat of a community can be found in the values embodied by the locals and how well they nurture their land.  Lopez Island’s heartbeat is strong, pure, vibrant.

There is a distinctive chill to the air, signaling the approach of a new season.  Dusk creeps in early and brings the darkness with it.  Summer is waning, and with it our time on Lopez Island.  I can only imagine how lovely this island looks with her landscape splashed with reds and golds – perhaps another time.

For the past six weeks we’ve been camp hosting at Spencer Spit State Park, and an amazing six weeks it has been, from the moment we drove off the ferry. The staff here has been so welcoming, and we feel blessed to have spent time with each and every one of them.   And the opportunity to co-host with our friends Laurel and Eric made this experience darn near perfect.

Lopez Island is the least hilly of the four main islands comprising the San Juans.  Its high cliffs, beautiful coastline, and rolling farmland make it very popular with both kayakers and cyclists.  We have enjoyed both while here.

Countless farms dot the landscape, a dream for painters and landscape photographers. The wonderful pastured meats and organic fruits and vegetables they produce for the local groceries, restaurants and farmstands on the island are incredible.  There has even been a seed library created to further strengthen the local food system.  These folks know a thing or two about land stewardship.  With all this delicious, healthy food being lovingly raised, it is no wonder Lopez has a wonderful little farmers’ market each week.

Lopez Village, no more than a few blocks square, contains at least four farm-to-table restaurants, a phenomenal bakery, gourmet ice cream produced from their local creamery, bookstore, shops, and galleries.  And this small community sports two grocery stores, both focused on organic fare.

The library, once the old red schoolhouse, carries an amazing variety of books and DVD’s. They have an online learning center and even rent out musical instruments. When being presented with my library card, I was warmly greeted with “consider this your second home”.

Lopez Island is filled with a talented array of musicians and artists, encompassing many genres.  Thanks to an invite by Laurel and Eric, we sat in on a rehearsal for one local group, Super Wide Groove, whose members have become close friends of theirs. These are some seriously talented musicians.  Along with the many musicians on the island, there are an equal number of artists.  We were on Lopez to attend the annual Studio Tour, featuring 28 of these creative souls, and I’m sure there is much more talent out there.  After what we had seen, I was beginning to wonder if anyone is allowed to live here if they are not artistically inclined…unbelievable.

Our last little adventure on Lopez was a visit to the island’s winery, Lopez Island Winery, where we enjoyed a glass of their Madeleine Angevine in a garden overflowing with flowers.  This is also where we met  Dante and Lisa, a lovely couple from Fort Collins, CO who had ferried over from Anacortes, then biked to the winery.

A special thanks to Z and Tom, our newfound friends we met earlier this year, who ferried over from Anacortes to join us for lunch.  We look forward to seeing them again this winter.

We have been enriched by our time on Lopez, thanks to the locals and the beauty we found in nature.  I see return trips in our future. 🙂

Watch the slideshow below for a tour of this magical little island.

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It All Began With a Pig ~ San Juan Island, WA

San Juan Island, second largest in the San Juan Island Archipelago, is the most populated of all the islands.  At high tide over 400 islands and rocks dot these waters, 128 of which are named.  San Juan Island is one of four accessible by ferry.

One wouldn’t know it now, but this quiet little island was once on the brink of an international conflict between two world super powers, the British and the U.S.

The Pig War, a confrontation in 1859, spurred by the shooting of a pig, escalated to a boundary dispute between these two countries, both claiming rights to the island. Luckily no blood was shed.  Well, not exactly true…there was the pig.  Today remnants of both the American and British camps are available for touring.

Homesteaders moved in after this conflict, taking to the sea.  Salmon fishing and harvesting clams and oysters was big business until the 20th century when the island vibe shifted to a gentler pace, focusing on nature and wildlife.  Today the island draws those seeking outdoor adventures, kayaking, fishing, whale watching, and boating.

As the ferry docked at Friday Harbor, a vibrant seaport lay before us, filled with boutique shops, cafes, museums, and galleries, many honoring the natives, first inhabitants of the island.  It is a town devoted to art, with festivals scattered throughout the year showcasing the unique talents of the local artists.

We made Demeter Bakery our first stop for great coffee and delicious pastry and when hunger pangs announced lunchtime, we headed to Market Chef for a yummy sandwich and salad.

A few of our favorite stops were the Arctic Raven Gallery, featuring intricate Indian carvings and colorful Arctic and coastal native art, wonderful little Griffin Bay Bookstore, and the San Juan Islands Museum of Art, where we were treated to a rare glimpse of Susan Middleton’s fascinating exhibit, Spineless: Portraits of Marine Invertebrates, the Backbone of Life, and a unique installation called Liminal Currents.

As we lie on the floor, looking up at the swaying branches we experienced the dancing underwater world as perceived by an animal such as the orca, who uses sound to understand spatial relationships within its environment.  Orca generated sounds, from the residents pods in the San Juans, have been added to enhance the experience.

I spent a few moments writing an intention, which I tied with ribbon to part of the linear sculpture.  At the wrap-up of the exhibit, the contents, branches, and messages will be gathered and burned, “transforming the scribed energy into light”.

As we moved beyond Friday Harbor, a diverse landscape opened before us – pastoral farmland, driftwood-strewn beaches, and bluffs overlooking island-dotted shimmering water.

The hike up Mt. Finlayson, a lovely walk through Douglas fir and red-barked madrona trees, provided us a birds-eye view of Cattle Point Lighthouse from the top.

Lime Kiln Point, a day use park, is considered one of the première places in the world to view whales from land.  Orcas are often spotted here but on our visit, gulls, terns, and an occasional oystercatcher were the only wildlife.  This is where the little sentinel Lime Kiln Lighthouse stands watch, a navigational aid still today for ships traversing Haro Strait.

We passed on a whale-watching trip while in Port Townsend, joining Laurel and Eric (Raven & Chickadee) instead on a tour booked through Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching, where we grabbed the last remaining seats.  Caption Jim uses a smaller boat for a more intimate experience, sprinkling in some history of the area as well.  We had heard that it was the best tour around, and being two of only seven on the boat, we had to admit it was pretty special.

Captain Jim & some of his crew
Captain Jim & some of his crew

A quick stop to Roche Harbor, a charming marina harboring some of the most beautiful yachts in the world, and we took to sea in search of orca.

Before long a resident pod sighting was confirmed in an area they are seldom found, off the shore of Spencer Spit State Park, right where we are volunteering.  It seems we needed to board a ferry to San Juan, hop on a whale-watching boat, and return back to the very spit we have walked most days since arriving on Lopez, just to see these beautiful creatures. Go figure!

(Not very clear shots but gives a perspective of how close these amazing creatures were to the spit.)

For their safety, we had to stay within 200 yards of the orcas, so my camera could not do these beauties justice.  Captain Jim graciously allowed me to share some of his stunning photos.

The above images are photo courtesy of Captain Jim of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching.  If you plan a whale-watching trip on San Juan Island, we highly recommend this tour company for a more intimate experience. You won’t be disappointed. 🙂

A visit to the Sculpture Garden near Roche Harbor rounded out our visits to San Juan Island.   We know there is much more to see, giving us reason to return.

We are most grateful to Laurel and Eric, for introducing us to the islands that have become their second home, providing us great recommendations, and including us on the whale-watching adventure.  You two are the best!

Next Up: Orcas Island