“Les Trois Tetons” ~ Grand Teton NP

Fur trappers, when first gazing upon the Teton Range, dubbed the South, Middle, and Grand peaks “Les Trois Tetons”, meaning “the three breasts”.

With less than three days to explore one of nature’s finer creations, Grand Teton National Park, we knew we would be leaving much for another time.  A day of hiking and one dedicated to exploring the park’s beauty through a lens seemed the best approach. Fortunately this wasn’t our first visit so we didn’t feel compelled to maintain a crazed, frenetic pace.

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Bison at Antelope Flats

Waiting in a long line at the entrance station, hubby turned to me and said “remind me why we decided to visit a national park during peak season and while the National Park Service is celebrating their centennial year”.  Yes, probably not our most prudent decision.  Shoulder season is typically our time for exploring these treasures but a planned visit to friends in the area and another adventure already scheduled for the fall found us rubbing elbows with hordes of tourists.

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Grand Teton reflection on Jackson Lake

With map and park newspaper in hand we pulled away from the entrance station and were immediately reminded of why we are drawn to this park.  Without any rolling foothills to soften the visual effects, Grand Teton’s massive, craggy peaks rose dramatically off the Jackson Hole valley floor, a sight likely to leave most breathless.

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Terry on the trail

The 2.7 billion-year-old rocks found in the core of this range are some of the oldest in North America, but these magnificent mountains rank among the youngest in the world.

After passing a couple of full campgrounds and another long wait, we quickly set up camp at Colter Bay.   With map and newspaper in hand we charted our course for the next two days.

The Forks of Cascade Canyon Trail at Jenny Lake became our hike of choice. Instead of taking the boat shuttle across the lake, an option for many as it shaves about four miles off the hike, we opted to start our trek from the String Lake trailhead.  It made for a nice 12.5-mile hike, with a 2000’ elevation gain.

We even got a peek at a moose feeding in the willows across a meadow, a wonderful treat. They have been known to dive up to 18 feet under the water’s surface and stay there for up to a minute, in search of aquatic plants, which makes for a rather uncooperative photography subject.

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Moose munching on willows

The next morning found me rubbing sleep out of my eyes at 4:30 am, heading out in the hopes of capturing sunrise shots without the crowds.  Tucked into a warm bed, hubby graciously declined the offer to join me.

Both artists and photographers flock to the Tetons.  With her sagebrush flats, wet and alpine meadows, lakes, ponds, and forests, there is plenty available for a creative mind.

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Moulton Barn on Mormon Row

A favorite stop to complete a wonderful day of sightseeing was the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center.  This plot of land south of the village of Moose offers 8 miles of trails and showcases Mr. Rockefeller’s vision and his legacy of conservation stewardship.  A small circular room allows you to quietly sit, enjoying the sounds of the park: crickets chirping, owls hooting, wolves howling, male ruffed grouse flapping his wings in courtship, an elk’s mating call, wind blowing through an aspen grove, a thunderstorm…ahhh!

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Just me and my shadow at Oxbow Bend

Wind speaks through pines.  Light animates granite.  An eagle soars – it’s shadow crosses over us. All life is intertwined.  ~ Anonymous

 This is the connectedness felt when we quiet ourselves in nature.

Time for Change

I have reflected upon the subject of change for some time now.  That little voice that speaks to us, the one that we are so very good at ignoring at times, has been incessantly chattering away at me recently.  She has become so noisy that I feel I can no longer ignore her.

For me, the struggle with trying to maintain a balance between sitting at my computer and attacking some of the items on my bucket list; e.g. learning a new craft, doing more introspective writing, taking classes, spending more time in nature, has not gone away.  I know many of you bloggers have struggled as well with this delicate balance as we are introduced to yet another wonderful blog to follow.   I feel the time is right for setting aside my old routine and immersing myself in new activities.

So, with that said, I have decided to take a hiatus from blogging, giving me time to focus on some other things that I feel will nourish me.  I will try to keep in touch where I can with those I’ve been following and want to thank all who have supported me these past five years.  Your comments have enriched me tremendously and I know I will feel a void when I step away, as I feel a special kinship to this blogging community.  But I need to broaden my horizons and give myself this time to get to know me a bit better.  I’m not sure where this part of the journey will take me so don’t really know if travel blogging will call me back or not.

I wish you much light, love and laughter as you continue on your journeys.

With heartfelt  gratitude, I bid you adieu for now.

LuAnn

Idaho Connections

Friendship…I have spoken of it often.  We all have them, some deeper than others.  I find that the older I grow, the more I am touched by the special connections I make, the richer the experiences, the fuller my life.

Spending my career in the corporate world I didn’t take the time to reflect upon these special bonds.  I was too busy flying around the country or sitting behind a desk from the early morning well into the evening.  The corporate life can do that – demand all of you.

Reflective morning on Pend Orielle River
Reflective morning on Pend Orielle River

As I sit here writing, I am enveloped in a comforting cloak of gratitude.  This nomadic lifestyle, the ability to retire when we did, has given us many opportunities to make some amazing friends, those we know will last a lifetime.

We recently spent three days with just such a couple, two special people we met this past winter in Jojoba Hills…easy conversation, quick to laugh, great hugs.  You know the type.

Terry and Frank pairing up for a game of pickleball
Terry and Frank pairing up for a game of pickleball

When Frank and Margee learned of our summer travel plans, they generously extended an invitation to stay on their property in Idaho for a few days.  Wanting to get to know them better, we accepted.

Marina in Coeur d’Alene

Days were filled with hiking, great meals, and lots of laughs.  They carved three days out to taxi us around, showing us the sights.  We are so grateful for their incredible generosity and the time to better know this wonderful couple.

Terry learning to take a selfie with our new phone
On the Lakeview Mtn Trail overlooking Priest Lake.
Frank and Margee - a very special couple we are honored to call friends
Frank and Margee – a very special couple we are honored to call friends

With one last heartfelt thank you and hugs all around, Frank’s final comment still echoes – “you’re family.”  And that is what I am finding in this journey we call life, friendships that embody the best of family.

The American Alps ~ North Cascades National Park

“Wilderness is a human concept…an idea about a place and its effect on us.  It is a state of mind devoted to an experience and the contemplation of natural places.”  ~ Unknown

As we headed northeast towards our next destination, I was reminded of how we once scoffed at tourists who would pull up to the visitor center at Yellowstone NP, saying they had three or four hours to spare, so what should they see.  Although we had three or four days to tour North Cascades National Park, I was feeling like one of those tourists trying to see the highlights in such a short time.  Smoke from the many fires devastating eastern Washington had moved back our visit so our available days to enjoy this park were shrinking and now we had rain moving into the picture as well…ugh!  But we knew that if time and weather permitted only one hike, a special trek was in our future.

With her spectacular craggy peaks, sheer-walled cliffs, spires, and pinnacles, many know North Cascades National Park as the “American Alps”.   Few roads lead into the park, so much of the beauty is best seen on her 400 miles of mountain and meadow trails, which could be why she is one of the least visited National Parks, receiving only 21,000 visitors in 2013.   The North Cascades National Park Service Complex consists of the National Park, Ross Lake National Recreation Area to the east and Lake Chelan National Recreation Area to the south.  Both of the Rec Areas receive more visitors.

As we neared the Visitor Center we were hit with the devastation caused by one of the Washington fires.  Had it not been for the road acting as a firebreak and the actions of the brave firefighters, the Visitor Center would have been lost.

After being mesmerized by the glaciers hugging Mt. Rainier’s peaks I was anxious to lay eyes on some in this park.  I learned that the North Cascades is home to a whopping 318 moving ice masses.  More than 1/3 of all glaciers in the U.S. call this land home.  It’s no wonder the streams and creeks are crystal clear, and the rivers and lakes are beautifully colored with glacial runoff.

Although we loved our time in the San Juans, we sorely missed long mountain hikes.  A warm-up seemed to be logical before our grand adventure so I chose the 7.5-mile Diablo Lake Trail.  With not too much elevation gain, it seemed like a great precursor hike.  However, a very narrow, winding road stood between the trailhead and us so we parked further away and elected to hike the Diablo Dam Trail to our trailhead.

As we came off the final switchback, on our way back to the truck, my “finance hubby” started to add up the numbers.  It seems our warm-up hike topped off at over 10 miles and Terry is now thinking I have adopted our friend Pam’s approach to hiking.  I wouldn’t have it any other way. 😉

If I had one complaint about North Cascades National Park, this would be it.  I struggle with the many dams that have been carved out of the wild rivers and bedrock.  When the dams turned Skagit River into tamer lakes, it dramatically altered the life of the gorge, wildlife in both water and on land bearing the greatest suffering.  It is difficult to take a photo without capturing many power lines running across the frame.  I reflected on something I had read recently – “if the wilderness disappears, will the wildness remain”?

The next day the dreaded storm front arrived.  Although we basked in early autumn sun at the Lone Fir Campground, the mountains towering above us told a different tale, shrouded with gray clouds.  A road trip to Mazama was added to the agenda as we waited out the mountain storm.  This teeny little village is a cross-country skier haven, with many already taking to the roads on roller blades and poles in hand, practicing for a much-anticipated winter of groomed trails.

Unfortunately the storm refused to move on quickly so we were faced with another day of rain and cloud cover.  Although hiking in the rain is never out of the question, the cloud cover was worrisome as mountain views could be obliterated.  We opted to hang back one more day.  Another road trip took us to Diablo Lake Overlook, where many brochure photos I had seen were taken, as well as Washington Pass, a must-see in our opinion for gorgeous mountain peak views.  Winthrop, a quaint little mountain town, became our lunch stop at the Old Schoolhouse Brewery.

Diablo Lake Overlook
Washington Pass
Washington Pass

Thank goodness we woke to blue skies the next day, as our time in the North Cascades was dwindling.  We arrived at the trailhead by 8:00 am to a brisk 38º for our much-anticipated hike on the Maple Pass trail . With so few roads in the park, many of the mountain passes much be seen and traversed on foot, and Maple Pass is one of those.

If time limits you to one hike in the North Cascades Complex, this should be the one. We’d heard this from friends Jim and Gayle and had it reinforced by many since then.

The views are drop-dead gorgeous, with low clouds draping the mountains, stunning views of glaciers from just above the pass, glacier-kissed mountain lakes, and brilliant fall colors that took my breath away.  Well, maybe the 7.5 miles and 2100’ elevation gain had a bit to do with that.

I'm in awe at the glorious vistas before me.
I’m in awe at the glorious vistas before me.
Rainy Lake
Rainy Lake
Heading back down the trail
Heading back down the trail

Standing looking out over the glorious mountain peaks, I couldn’t help but feel a connectedness with the entire Universe.  What a remarkable feeling!

Next Up: Idaho Visit with Friends

Touching Lives ~ Final Thoughts on Lopez Island

Our time on Lopez Island has passed, giving me time to reflect on this magical little island. Being camp hosts at Spencer Spit State Park for the past six weeks gave us time to get to know the island at a leisurely pace.  This is unlike what many of us are faced with when we pull into a new destination, having only a few days or a week to explore, and a list a page long of all we want to see.

Volunteering has given us that luxury, for which we are grateful.  For us it is not just about having more leisure time to explore or getting a free site in exchange for work, although that is pretty sweet.  It is important for us to give back in some way while on the road, as we feel so blessed to have the time and resources to travel this beautiful country of ours.  Lopez Island has been a wonderful place to give back, and staff and park visitors alike often expressed their appreciation for the work we did.

As I perused photos capturing the wonderful memories we made on Lopez, I felt compelled to write this short post.  Time and again we saw how one couple touched lives here on the island, both with the locals and park visitors alike.  That couple was Laurel and Eric, two people who we are pleased to call our friends.

Laurel and Eric acted as the park’s Interpretive Hosts, planning and facilitating the Junior Ranger Program and a program they developed called Coffee with the Birds, geared towards adults.  For those who have seen a child being sworn in as a Junior Ranger or watched as they ran around a park completing their workbooks, you know what a heartwarming experience it is.  They are fully engaged, serious about their assignment.

As I watched Laurel and Eric conducting their weekly programs, pure delight is what I saw on the faces.  These two touched lives each time they gathered visitors together around the tables.

And we saw first-hand the connection they’ve made with the local community as well, when we sat in on some of the jam sessions they had with other musicians on the island.  They have touched many lives, ours as well. We are so grateful our paths have crossed.