According to the Lakota tribe, while at play, a group of young girls were chased by giant bears. Their escape was to climb atop a rock and pray to the Great Spirit to save them.The Great Spirit heard their pleas and the rock rose to the heavens, keeping the young girls safe from attack. Deep claw marks in the sides of the rock evidence the ursine’s attempts to reach the girls. These are the marks which appear today on the sides of Devils Tower. When the girls reached the sky, they were turned into the star constellation Pleiades.
There are things in the natural world that induce a stillness of spirit, a sense of wonder. For me, Devils Tower is one of those things. President Theodore Roosevelt must have felt this same sense of awe as he gazed upwards at this rocky sentinel rising 1267 feet above the surrounding landscape, as this was to be his choice for the first national monument on September 24, 1906. With a one-mile circumference, it is a sight to behold.
The name “Bear’s Lodge” given to this stately tower by Native Americans became woefully mistranslated by a U.S. Army interpreter to that of “Bad Man’s Tower”, which then became Devils Tower. Northern Plains Indians have objected to this name and wish to see it changed to Bear Lodge National Historic Landmark but they have been met by local opposition, fearing a name change would affect tourism.
There is an ongoing debate about how this massive tower was formed. Most geologists agree that Devils Tower was formed by the forceful passage of molten material between other rock formations but they can’t agree whether this magma reached the earth’s surface or how that process took place. What is known is that this material cooled and crystallized, forming hexagonal (4 to 7-sided) columns separated by vertical fissures, compatible to columns found at Devil’s Postpile National Monument in California, but those at Devils Tower are much larger. These are the tallest and widest columns in the world, some more than 600 feet tall and 10-20 feet wide.
Many ask, “should this be a sacred tower, a climbing mecca, or is there room for both?” It has long been held as sacred ground by over 20 Native American tribes but has also been sought as an international climbing destination since its first ascent on July 4, 1893. Out of respect for Native American beliefs, the National Park Service has asked climbers to refrain from climbing the tower during the month of June, when many tribes gather here for prayer, sun dance, sweat lodge ceremonies, and vision quests.
Records of the tower climbs have been kept since that first ascent by William Rogers and Willard Ripley in 1893, using a wooden ladder to climb the first 350 feet. Two years later Mrs. Rogers used that same ladder to become the first woman to summit. Remnants of that ladder can still be seen today on the side of Devils Tower. Annually 5000+ climbers world-wide come to tackle this technically difficult tower and over 220 climbing routes have been established. Five deaths have resulted from attempting this climb, the most recent being in 2003. We watched in awe as one climber worked his way up the tower barefoot.
We were content to extol her beauty with our feet planted terra firma. 🙂
Paint Your Landscape 
This was such a good post, LuAnn. I learned many things I did not yet know. Your photos are great, as usual, and your words describing this beautiful place, make it seem magical. I wish the climbers would stay off the tower, and respect the native Americans’ wishes.
Thanks Joan! We have been wanting to see Devils Tower for some time and we were not disappointed. As far as maintaining this as a sacred place vs. a climbers’ dream destination, that is a conundrum for the Park Service, no doubt.
Fascinating rock and its ridges. Im at awe at that barefoot climber, wonder if he is trying to emulate the girls. I like that sunset glow on the rock.
Thanks MonaLiza. Rock climbing, especially like this, is something I just cannot fathom. I am much better with my two feet on the earth.
I’ve long wished to visit this fascinating place. Your pictures of the climbers give a wonderful perspective and show just how really big those column are!
This place has a very spiritual feel to me and the tower is massive. I was glad we had the chance to visit.
This is a “rock” we haven’t seen yet. What a gorgeous picture with the sun on the tower creating that reddish color. I really enjoyed reading all the background. The Native American’s do spin wonderful tales. I know I would love seeing this tower up close.
Too bad the name isn’t going to change. It is so hard to change something already named. In Moab they are trying to change the Negro Bill trail name to Morning Glory. Doesn’t seem to be working too well.
We think this tower is definitely worth a stop. If you have been to Devil’s Postpile in CA, it is interesting to compare the two. I was lucky to be able to capture the sun setting on the tower. I hiked out onto the Red Beds Trail to capture it.
I think once a name has become engrained in the minds of others, it is difficult to make the change.
We’ve never been to Devil’s Postpile either but I have seen photos and I need to see this place, also. Oh, so many places yet to visit!!!
And hopefully lots of time to see them all! 🙂
You really got some wonderful shots of this amazing edifice, LuAnn. I was really in awe, when we came upon Devil’s Tower, as we travelled through Wyoming a couple of years ago. Did you know that it featured as an alien landing pad, in Steven Spielburg’s movie, ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’? 🙂
Yes I did Sylvia and after we had been there hubby and I thought we should rent that movie again. Beautiful country! 🙂
Fascinating rock and the story behind it is also interesting. This is already on our list and you just confirmed it’s a worthwhile stop 🙂
We stayed at the Belle Fourche Campground at Devils Tower National Monument (dry camping only). We could look up at the tower from our campsite…very cool! 🙂
What a stunning place LuAnn, I’d never heard of it but now it’s definitely on the “list”. A really interesting post thank you 🙂
My pleasure Mike. Wyoming, Montana and Idaho are good spots to consider for another U.S. trip. 😉
I think that is a great compromise. We respect their religious belief and the climbers get a chance to conquer the Tower.
Agreed!
I was thinking a couple of days ago I have to watch Close Encounters again. I haven’t watched it since I brought it on Blu-Ray.
These are fabulous LuAnn. Sod climbing that though
We were thinking that we needed to rent it again since seeing Devils Tower up-close. You couldn’t get me to climb this tower or any other with ropes.
I don’t think I would climb it even if my back wasn’t the way it is
It looks like it takes such strength and concentration to rock climb. I don’t have any interest in trying.
My cousin climbed a mountain once, and he got an award for it. I used to hate him when we were kids because he used to take his limbs off and hit us with them. One day we went downstairs for dinner and tied him to a chair, took both legs and his arm with us saying he wasn’t hungry. He didn’t do it again after that. Proud of him for climbing though.
Ok, are you just pulling my leg? 🙂
Haha love it. Nope, he really used to do that, and he really won an award for it. I detested his mother, my aunt. She went out of her way to upset me and it succeeded every time. In the end I refused to be around except when she came down with her daughter. Me and her got on well really well. Unfortunately, she died of cancer a few years back. I was devastated when I found out, because it took my mum two years to tell me.
Family stuff can be really difficult at times, can’t it?
Yes it can
Such gorgeous photos LuAnn. I had read of the ongoing controversy of climbing on the tower. It seems as though a compromise has been reached?
Yes, it seems so. So any desire to scale this one yourselves? 😉
I’m afraid it is beyond my capabilities even at the height of my climbing ability. We mostly did sport climbing where the bolts are placed in the rock. If I am not mistaken this is traditional climbing where you place your own gear.
I believe it is and I do admire what you two have done. 🙂
These are fabulous shots of this majestic tower! Using a wooden ladder to climb the first 350 feet, unbelievable!
Thanks Amy! I can’t imagine scaling this tower, no matter what I used to do it. 🙂
Oh my goodness! I am in awe of climbers but have no intention of ever doing that myself. I love watching them. That is an amazing geologic structure!
I too am in awe when I watch climbers but honestly don’t know how they have the courage to do it. Devils Tower is a very unique structure!
I have a hard enough time with a five foot ladder. You won’t catch me climbing that thing, but your sunset shot is super spectacular. It’s amazing what good lighting does to images. Way to go, LuAnn.
Thanks Gunta. And I’m right there with you, I cannot fathom that type of climbing.
What a fascinating tale, LuAnn, and you tell it very well! The deep striations on the rock definitely look like bear claw marks (a very large bear, indeed). Your photo at sunset makes the rock look like it’s glowing from within. I’m happy that at least the month of June is set aside in respect for the Native American ceremonies. It’s the least we can do.
Thanks so much Laurel. We were glad we took the time to visit this spiritual space.
There are lots of stories about bears, I find it fascinating, I love the huge bear, that is a great picture. I wouldn’t be able to watch people climb up barehanded, I’d be worried they’d slip…I blame that on watching Star Trek 5 lol. I don’t blame you for staying firmly on the ground, we couldn’t have you to far away from a laptop to keep us updated on your trevails.
I am a bit of a klutz, so feet planted firmly on the ground is always best for me. 🙂
My vote goes to ‘sacred space’. Thanks for sharing the history. Beautiful.
Yes, it is that, I believe.
I love to hike even upwards in the mountains but rock climbing a face I could never do!
I am right with you there Nicole! 🙂
Hi, LuAnn. So sorry to hear of Terry’s loss. You wrote beautifully about it. I don’t comment often, but do know that I read your posts! Love this Devil’s Tower post. When I lived in Michigan, it is the first place I’d camp and finally feel like I was really out West…. I’d drive as long and as far as I could on day one, usually into SD, the zoom to Devil’s Tower. I would, indeed, like to see the name changed. Thank you for sharing your travels. Julianne
Thanks so much for your kind words Julianne and for stopping by. I have wanted to see Devils Tower probably since I saw the movie Close Encounters. I felt a spiritual presence there and we were so glad we took the time to visit. We are hoping to get back to Yellowstone next year and hope you will still be there. We would love to see you again.
Remarkable nature wonder and absolutely FASCINATING! Maybe I can just have my private helicopter drop me off on top of it. Or call Superman. 😀
Or climb up like many others…not me! 🙂
Enjoyed that very much, LuAnn. I couldn’t agree with you more. I too would stand firmly at its base to admire it!
😀
Awesome photo of the tower reflecting the setting sun. We stayed there last year on our way to AK and were totally mesmerized by its energy.
Thanks Lynne. We hope to get to AK in the next couple of years.
Wow…some great information you shared with us. I don’t blame you about keeping your feet planted on the ground☺
I don’t know how climbers have the courage to tackle something like this.
Beautiful!
I’m all for changing the name. I think the story & the history behind it would not be a negative affect on tourism. In fact – I would think the opposite.
Then again – what do I know…?
Thanks RoSy.
My family has just started rock climbing, but this one looks a bit intimidating! 🙂
Any rock climbing looks intimidating to me! You are brave souls. 🙂
We stayed at the Belle Fourche campground last June and loved to just sit in the evening looking at the changing face of the Tower. It is a special place.
We did as well. 🙂
Just wonderful LuAnn. I always learn something wonderful about our country when I visit you here. Gorgeous photos (of course!) 🙂
Thanks Penny! 🙂
🙂
Aw, this was a really good post. Finding the time and
actual effort to make a really good article… but what can I say…
I hesitate a whole lot and never seem to get anything done.