Houghton, MI ~ #1

We are spending a week at the City of Houghton RV Park.  I have to admit that my first reaction when driving into the park was not as positive as that of Bayfield, WI, our last stay.  The sites were closer together and were paved, not grassy.  However, when we got settled and I looked out our back window I quickly changed by mind.  We sit on the banks of the Portage Waterway and can watch the sunset from our window or while sitting around the fire.  Many boats, large and small, travel the waterway, so it has been great fun watching these boats glide by while sitting on our sofa.   An added bonus was to have our newfound friends John and Janie as next-door neighbors for the week!

Houghton, an old copper mining town, sits on the hills bordering the Portage Canal in Keweenaw Peninsula and has been tagged as one of The 100 Best Small Towns in America.  With a population of 7700, it is the largest city on the Keweenaw Peninsula. Many Cornish and Finnish immigrants came to this area to work in the copper mines and their influence is still apparent in the culture and cuisine in the area.

This historic, photographic town is the birthplace of professional hockey in the US, hosting the Portage Lakers back in 1903.  Dee Stadium currently houses a museum as tribute to professional hockey and is home to the Portage Lake Pioneers Senior Hockey Team.

There are some wonderful hiking and biking trails running along the Portage Canal that we were able to take advantage of.  We have had a couple of fairly cool days and the leaves on the trees are beginning to change color.  We are hoping to see a spectacular color show as we continue to venture further into the UP.

Houghton is also home to Michigan Tech University, best known for its engineering school.  We spent some time walking the grounds of the university and could see the international influence here.

Given that Houghton has an average snowfall of 208″ annually, it is sometimes said to have two seasons, “winter’s here and winter’s coming”.  This town is host to a number of winter sports:  cross-country skiing, Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, ice fishing, snowmobiling, ice hockey, and ice skating.  Personally, as we have aged, we have become more warm weather fans but you can see the enthusiasm for all things winter here.

Something we really wanted to do was to visit Isle Royale National Park but realized early on that the season for this trip ended after Labor Day.  We were a little bummed but will just have to come back for a visit at another time.  We did the next best thing instead, toured the visitor center and watched a video relating to Isle Royale.  The 5-hour ferry trip to the island originates in Houghton at the docks outside the visitor center.

After spending some time separately doing some exploring, John, Janie, Terry, and I decided to meet at the town library.  John can be a little on the quiet side at times but we knew that he was enjoying himself when we walked in and he was grinning from ear to ear.  We didn’t know how long they had been there but Janie mentioned that he loved to read so maybe the library was just what the doctor ordered for him.  Oh, did I forget to mention, The Library is a restaurant and brew pub.  I’m thinking something else put a smile on John’s face that day.  We enjoyed several brews and the best artichoke dip any of us had tasted.  We liked both so well that we visited again later in the week.

Connecting Houghton to Hancock is the world’s heaviest and widest double-deck vertical draw bridge, Portage Lift Bridge.  Its center lifts to provide 100′ of clearance for ships.  The lowest deck is used to accommodate snowmobile traffic in the winter.  It is the only land-based link between the north and south section of the Keweenaw Peninsula.

Historic Hancock, founded in 1859 by the Quincy Copper Mining Company, is home to 4600 residents and is the northernmost city in Michigan.  Hancock has a strong Finnish heritage and has been called “the focal point of Finns in the US”.  This quaint town was named after John Hancock, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.  I don’t think you could call this downtown thriving but it had some interesting little shops that have seemed to stand the test of time.

Finlandia University, the only private university in the UP, was founded in 1896 under the name of Suomi College, affiliated with the Evangelical Lutheran Church.  Finnish pastor J. K. Nikander founded this school to ensure the advance of seminary training in America.  Its role at the time was to preserve Finnish culture, train new ministers, and teach English.  In 2000, Suomi changed its name to Finlandia University, with a liberal arts focus.

The first building erected at Suomi College was Old Main, constructed in 1898 from local sandstone.   The university has since outgrown this building but it still stands as a tribute to Mr. Nikander.

Later in the week we ventured out with John and Janie to explore Eagle Harbor, Copper Harbor, and Ft. Wilkins Historic State Park.  We were also fortunate enough to be here for the 22nd Annual Parade of Nations and International Ethnic Food Festival.  I will blog about these in my next post.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore ~ #3

There are a total of six lighthouses placed in strategic points among the Apostle Islands. While here we were able to take a ferry to Raspberry Island and tour their newly renovated lighthouse.

Raspberry Island sits 1.5 miles from the mainland and is 1/2 mile in width at its widest, making it one of the smallest of the Apostle Islands.  It was judged to be the perfect location for the second lighthouse.  Sitting on a bluff at the southwest point of the island, this lighthouse served double duty by showing the way to westbound ships passing Bayfield and directing eastbound ships between Bear and York Islands and into the channel around the mainland to Bayfield.

Raspberry Island Lighthouse cost $6,000 to build and its lantern was first lit in 1863. The current standing lighthouse was completed in 1906.  The light of its lantern (5th order fresnel) can be seen for 10 miles and it flashes once every 60 seconds.  W learned that each lighthouse lantern flashes at a different interval so sailors know which lighthouse they are looking at.

A 3/4 mile trek takes you down to the beach.  Looking from any direction you can see islands dotting the channel.   We are still astounded at just how clear the water is, unlike many other lakes we have encountered.

What Terry and I most wanted to see were the sea caves.  Water is such a powerful force and what the waves have done to the sandstone shoreline, both the thawing and freezing action over centuries, is amazing!  Probably the best way to see these is to go with an outfitter or use your own sea kayak and get up close and personal.  This can be dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing, particularly during specific times of the year.  We were approaching the end of the season for sea kayaking so we decided to take a trail off of the mainland to get a bird’s-eye view instead.  We have been told that some of the best sea caves of the Great Lakes are located on the shorelines of the Apostle Islands.

We were pleased to have another couple join us for our hike, a couple we met while Terry was attempting to maneuver the rig into our site.  They are from Iowa and have been full-timing for the 1.5 years.  We were able to glean a great deal of information from them that will be helpful to us and all had a chance to laugh at some of the goofy things we have both done while on this journey.  We are thoroughly enjoying their company and feel we have developed a new friendship.

Janie & John

Probably the most photographed and the most impressive sea caves are those on Devil’s Island and Sand Island, but those we were able to see from the mainland were dramatic as well.

Kayakers Investigating Sea Caves
The Power of Water
Sandstone and Verdant Forest
Me & Janie Enjoying our Hike

From here we are headed to Houghton, Michigan and are pleased that John and Janie were planning a trip there as well.  We are looking forward to creating a few more memories together.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore ~ #2

Apples and Berries and Veggies – Oh My!

The ability to eat local sustainable foods is something we relish so we were delighted to see so many orchards and farms in the Bayfield area.  We set aside one day to orchard hop and found some terrific buys.  Grass-fed beef, smoked Lake Superior whitefish, heirloom tomatoes, dragon-tongue beans, and the most delicious apples that I promptly cooked down into some scrumptious applesauce were just a few of our finds.  Couple that with the artesian well right outside our door and we are in heaven!  Not to mention that the weather has been darn near perfect.

Each orchard or farm that we stopped at seemed to have their signature product.

Blue Vista Farm was a charming property, with colorful gardens filled with pumpkins, gourds, and sunflowers, and a striking barn which was used as their store.  Here are a few pictures of their farm.

Homestead Gardens was a funky little property which did not appear to offer up much promise but was such a surprising find for grass-fed beef, organic vegetables and a store chock full of organic grains, nuts, seeds, spices and oils.

Erickson’s Orchard & Country Store specializes in apple cider donuts.  We do not regularly indulge in this treat but the smell when we walked in the door and the knowledge that these sugary treats had just been pulled from the oven was just too provocative to pass up.  Erickson’s apples provided the start for some pretty tasty applesauce as well.

Hauser Superior View Farm sold perennials and bedding plants, as well as various fruit jams and butters.  The focal point of this property was the historic barn, a 1928 Sears barn purchased for $895.

We visited several other orchards and farms that offered their own specialties.  It was a wonderful day that was a feast for the senses.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore ~ #1

We have settled for a week at the Thompson West End City Park in Washburn, WI, looking out onto the majestic Lake Superior.  This lovely park sits on the outskirts of Bayfield, the doorway to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.  It is a great city park, big-rig friendly with 50 amp service and cable TV.  There are several artesian wells within the surrounding area and one of them is flowing right at the park.  Cold, clear delicious artesian water is just a few steps away!

The is my first visit to Lake Superior so I thought I would provide a few interesting facts:

Surface Area:  *31,700 square miles          Avg. Water Temp:  40° F

East-West:  382 miles                                  North-South:  160 miles

Volume:  3,000,000,000,000,000 (quadrillion) gallons of water

Lake Superior has more water in it than all the other Great Lakes combined.  It is the largest freshwater lake in the world based on surface area*.

Immediately upon settling into our site, we saw a beautiful large bird in the tree next to us, with a most unusual sound.  We were treated to the greeting of a pileated woodpecker.

The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is a group of islands sitting within Lake Superior in northern Wisconsin.  The name was given to these islands by the historian Franςois Xavier de Charlevoix, who named them after the 12 apostles, even though there are 22 of them!  The islands are the spiritual home of the Lake Superior Chippewa.

Madeline Island Ferry

We decided to take a trip over to Madeline Island but before hopping on the ferry, we were able to spend a little time exploring the town of Bayfield.  It is home of the headquarters for the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and was constructed from rock quarried from the islands before they were made into a park.  The local Holy Family church was built from this same brownstone.

The Rittenhouse Inn, Wisconsin’s first B&B, built in 1975, is an elegant structure, having the reputation as one of the great Country Inns of North America.  It has a huge wraparound veranda and views of Bayfield Harbor and the Apostle Islands beyond.

Bayfield Harbor with Rittenhouse Inn in Background

The seasonal festivals in Bayfield are ranked among the nation’s finest, particularly the Bayfield Apple Festival, drawing roughly 40,000 visitors annually.  This year, October 7-9 they are celebrating their 50th anniversary and we wish we could be here for the festivities.  This festival is listed as one of the Top Ten Autumn Festivals in North America by the Society of American Travel Writers.  Other highly supported festivals occur here year-round.

Madeline Island, largest of the Apostle Islands archipelago, was named after Madeline Cadotte, daughter of Chief White Crane and wife of fur trader Michael Cadotte.  It has been inhabited by Native Americans, missionaries, and fur traders, and has flown the flag of three nations over the past 400 years.  The town of La Pointe, population of 272, occupies a space on this island, as well as Big Bay State Park.

Madeline Island View from Ferry
Terry on Madeline Island Beach
Funky Restaurant in La Pointe

Bayfield, the berry capital of Wisconsin, is home to the largest organic blueberry farm in the state, the largest raspberry producer in the state, and offers the biggest variety of berries that you will find most anywhere.  We were too late for the berry season but just in time for apple season.  With more than a dozen orchards/farms around the Bayfield area, we spent a day touring the countryside and many of the orchards.  We also scheduled a tour to the Raspberry Island Lighthouse and took a hike that gave us some great views of the sea caves.   I will talk about these in upcoming posts.

Door County, WI

We spent a leisurely week in Door County, WI, a four-season tourist haven.  This picturesque county has so much to offer:  5 state parks, 10 lighthouses, 300+ miles of shoreline, colorful farmers’ markets, boutique shops and wineries, stunning flower gardens, and countless mouth-watering restaurants.  We were reminded around every turn that this is a big dairy state, given the number of ice cream shops we encountered.  Needless to say, we felt compelled to sample a few.

Door County was named after the strait that runs between Door Peninsula and Washington Island.  This dangerous passage, strewn with shipwrecks, sits where the waters of Green Bay join the open waters of Lake Michigan and has been given the nickname “Death’s Door“.

Early on we spent an enjoyable evening with Jay and Beth, the couple from whom we purchased the RV, along with Beth’s mother.  They made the decision to sell the RV and purchased a terrific 2-acre property right on Sturgeon Bay.  Their loss was our gain, but the sunsets they traded for are spectacular!  After dinner we sat around a bonfire on their little stretch of beach and watched the sunset.

Jay & Beth
Mother "Dona" and her Beautiful Smile
Jay & Beth's Sturgeon Bay Sunset

We spent our stay at Tranquil Timbers RV Park, right outside of Potawatomi State Park, where we took pleasure exercising daily along the shores of Sturgeon Bay.

Tranquil Timbers RV Park

I believe that the pictures below give a good representation of the color and character of the towns and villages of Door County, so I will let them speak for themselves mostly, with a few of my thoughts thrown in for explanation.

The seat of Door County is Sturgeon Bay, a historic community that dates back to 1835.  With a population of 9778, it boasts an alluring waterfront and 17 separate annual festivals, making it one of Wisconsin’s premium vacation getaways.

 Egg Harbor, population of roughly 280, was named one of the top ten “Coolest Small Towns in America” by Budget Travel Magazine in 2010.  Parks, beaches, a marina, golf courses, boutique shops, galleries and restaurants abound, not to mention the striking flower gardens.

Fish Creek, in the heart of the peninsula, takes pride in a historic main street, with enticing shops, galleries, and restaurants.  With a population of 929, it has some of Door County’s best performing arts, as well as great marinas and beaches.

The Cookery

The Cookery, originally opened in 1977, had seating for 20.  A subsequent fire closed it for a time, and when it reopened, it included a second story with wine bar and a seating capacity of 85.  The seafood chowder is delicious!

Oilerie

The Oilerie, a very popular shop, was opened by a couple in 2003 after a visit to Europe, where they experienced charming little boutique olive oil shops.  They decided to bring this concept to the US, where it has done very well.  It is wonderful to be able to taste test the various olive oils and balsamic vinegar prior to purchase.  Their 25-year old balsamic is exquisite, and their truffle oil and roasted walnut oil have found a place in our home also.

Along with the delightful shops and restaurants, Fish Creek is also home to Peninsula State Park, where we were able to spend an afternoon hiking.

Eagle Bluff Lighthouse in Peninsula State Park
Horseshoe Island Seen from Tower in Peninsula State Park

Sister Bay, population of 870, boasts the largest public waterfront, with a sand beach, docks, an extensive park area, and a gazebo that hosts free concerts in the summer.  It was voted #1 in Wisconsin for small town dining by a state-wide survey.

Door County Bakery

The Door County Bakery is best known for their Corsica bread, heavy and laden with extra virgin olive oil.

Jacksonport, population of 750, is home to some of the county’s most scenic shoreline parks.  Cave Point County Park, in our opinion, was certainly one of the most picturesque.

Cave Point County Park

With a population of 310 full-time residents, the village of Ephraim exhibits a blend of Norwegian and Moravian heritage.  It is an artists’ haven and houses a graffiti-covered warehouse on Anderson Dock, now known as the Hardy Gallery.  It was commonplace when fishermen docked that they write their names and name of their boat in paint on the sides of the warehouse and this tradition continues today.

Francis Hardy Gallery at Ephraim Wharf

A relaxing few hours can be spent sitting on the lawn at Fred and Fuzzy’s Restaurant, sipping on a cherry marguerita.  It was a great way to while away a sunny afternoon.

Bay Viewed from Grounds of Fred and Fuzzy's in Ephraim

We enjoyed perfect weather while in Door County.  The day we were planning to leave, the skies were overcast, which was our sign to move on.  We headed back to Elkhorn to have a part replaced on our refrigerator and plan to spend the weekend back at Chain O Lakes State Park, a great park for hiking and just soaking up some summer sun.  Have a great holiday weekend!