Door County, WI

We spent a leisurely week in Door County, WI, a four-season tourist haven.  This picturesque county has so much to offer:  5 state parks, 10 lighthouses, 300+ miles of shoreline, colorful farmers’ markets, boutique shops and wineries, stunning flower gardens, and countless mouth-watering restaurants.  We were reminded around every turn that this is a big dairy state, given the number of ice cream shops we encountered.  Needless to say, we felt compelled to sample a few.

Door County was named after the strait that runs between Door Peninsula and Washington Island.  This dangerous passage, strewn with shipwrecks, sits where the waters of Green Bay join the open waters of Lake Michigan and has been given the nickname “Death’s Door“.

Early on we spent an enjoyable evening with Jay and Beth, the couple from whom we purchased the RV, along with Beth’s mother.  They made the decision to sell the RV and purchased a terrific 2-acre property right on Sturgeon Bay.  Their loss was our gain, but the sunsets they traded for are spectacular!  After dinner we sat around a bonfire on their little stretch of beach and watched the sunset.

Jay & Beth
Mother "Dona" and her Beautiful Smile
Jay & Beth's Sturgeon Bay Sunset

We spent our stay at Tranquil Timbers RV Park, right outside of Potawatomi State Park, where we took pleasure exercising daily along the shores of Sturgeon Bay.

Tranquil Timbers RV Park

I believe that the pictures below give a good representation of the color and character of the towns and villages of Door County, so I will let them speak for themselves mostly, with a few of my thoughts thrown in for explanation.

The seat of Door County is Sturgeon Bay, a historic community that dates back to 1835.  With a population of 9778, it boasts an alluring waterfront and 17 separate annual festivals, making it one of Wisconsin’s premium vacation getaways.

 Egg Harbor, population of roughly 280, was named one of the top ten “Coolest Small Towns in America” by Budget Travel Magazine in 2010.  Parks, beaches, a marina, golf courses, boutique shops, galleries and restaurants abound, not to mention the striking flower gardens.

Fish Creek, in the heart of the peninsula, takes pride in a historic main street, with enticing shops, galleries, and restaurants.  With a population of 929, it has some of Door County’s best performing arts, as well as great marinas and beaches.

The Cookery

The Cookery, originally opened in 1977, had seating for 20.  A subsequent fire closed it for a time, and when it reopened, it included a second story with wine bar and a seating capacity of 85.  The seafood chowder is delicious!

Oilerie

The Oilerie, a very popular shop, was opened by a couple in 2003 after a visit to Europe, where they experienced charming little boutique olive oil shops.  They decided to bring this concept to the US, where it has done very well.  It is wonderful to be able to taste test the various olive oils and balsamic vinegar prior to purchase.  Their 25-year old balsamic is exquisite, and their truffle oil and roasted walnut oil have found a place in our home also.

Along with the delightful shops and restaurants, Fish Creek is also home to Peninsula State Park, where we were able to spend an afternoon hiking.

Eagle Bluff Lighthouse in Peninsula State Park
Horseshoe Island Seen from Tower in Peninsula State Park

Sister Bay, population of 870, boasts the largest public waterfront, with a sand beach, docks, an extensive park area, and a gazebo that hosts free concerts in the summer.  It was voted #1 in Wisconsin for small town dining by a state-wide survey.

Door County Bakery

The Door County Bakery is best known for their Corsica bread, heavy and laden with extra virgin olive oil.

Jacksonport, population of 750, is home to some of the county’s most scenic shoreline parks.  Cave Point County Park, in our opinion, was certainly one of the most picturesque.

Cave Point County Park

With a population of 310 full-time residents, the village of Ephraim exhibits a blend of Norwegian and Moravian heritage.  It is an artists’ haven and houses a graffiti-covered warehouse on Anderson Dock, now known as the Hardy Gallery.  It was commonplace when fishermen docked that they write their names and name of their boat in paint on the sides of the warehouse and this tradition continues today.

Francis Hardy Gallery at Ephraim Wharf

A relaxing few hours can be spent sitting on the lawn at Fred and Fuzzy’s Restaurant, sipping on a cherry marguerita.  It was a great way to while away a sunny afternoon.

Bay Viewed from Grounds of Fred and Fuzzy's in Ephraim

We enjoyed perfect weather while in Door County.  The day we were planning to leave, the skies were overcast, which was our sign to move on.  We headed back to Elkhorn to have a part replaced on our refrigerator and plan to spend the weekend back at Chain O Lakes State Park, a great park for hiking and just soaking up some summer sun.  Have a great holiday weekend!

Madison, WI

Madison or “Mad City”, as it is better known by the locals, is the capital of Wisconsin. With a population of 233,200, it is the second largest city in the state, behind Milwaukee. Madison was founded in 1836 and is named after our fourth President, James Madison. It is unique in many ways, one of which is that it sits on an isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona.

Terry lived in this clean, vibrant city about 30 years ago and was excited to see how it had changed during his time away.  I was seeing it with fresh eyes, having never been here before but anxious to see it, given all I have heard.  It did not disappoint me in the least and, except for the temps in the winter, which even the locals say are difficult to bear at times, it is a very livable city.  It consistently ranks near the top of the best places to live, with the city’s low unemployment rate being a draw.  Madison also ranks second in the nation, according to Forbes Magazine, in the “Top 20 Places to Educate Your Child” category.  For a larger city, it has repeatedly been named one of “America’s Safest Cities”.

We stayed at a lovely little inn for a couple of nights, Ruby Marie B&B.  We chose this location as it allowed us to walk everywhere, with bike paths along Lake Monona right outside our door and downtown a few blocks away.  Ruby Marie’s opened as a hotel in 1873 and was used as a railroad hotel.  The Wilson street area, where this B&B sits, was mainly a German community in the 19th century and still retains that flavor.  It has been renovated by the current owner, with all the original woodwork retained.

Our first lunch in Madison took up to the Old Fashioned, which is a local haunt, serving wonderful salads and sandwiches.  It sits across the street from the capitol building so that is where we ventured after a leisurely lunch.

This grand building is the largest state capitol, excluding that which is in Washington, DC.  It is the only capitol built on an isthmus and can be viewed from most anywhere within Madison, due to its being situated near the high point of the isthmus.  The existing structure was erected between the years 1906 and 1917, being the third capitol building in Madison, the second having been devastated in a fire.  This majestic granite building stands over 200 feet tall and has the only granite dome in the United States.  It showcases 43 varieties of stone from around the world, hand-carved furniture and glass mosaics.  A mural entitled “Resources of Wisconsin” graces the ceiling of the rotunda.

Rotunda Ceiling

After a lengthy tour of the capitol, we headed off to State Street, probably the most noted street in the city, with much of it open to foot traffic and bicycles only.  Madison is a very bike-friendly city, rivaling the likes of Portland OR.

State Street runs for several blocks and consists of countless funky and boutique clothing stores, microbreweries and bars, and more ethnic restaurants than I have seen in a city in a long time.  We enjoyed a hearty, fragrant Afghan soup, bread and tasty dipping sauces for our first evening meal.

On our way back to the B&B we encountered a young man and his dog.  He was playing an upright piano (very well I might add) and a sign was posted stating that he was traveling across the US, hoping to inspire people, through his music, to follow their deepest desires.  His website, entitled  http://pianoacrossamerica.com tells his story.

Dotan Negrin and His Little Friend

We wrapped up our day with a visit to a German pub next to our B&B, to imbibe in a couple of microbrews.

Terry and I both enjoy the beauty of gardens so we decided to check out Olbrich Botanical Gardens, covering 16 acres, with upwards of 12 separate gardens and a conservatory.  The textures and colors of the gardens, along with the babbling brooks and the Thai pavilion made the trip worthwhile.  Enjoy a few of the pictures that we took.

Thai Pavilion

The Oscar Mayer Wienermobile.  This is what we encountered when we left the botanical gardens and entered their parking lot.  You think you know someone after 20 years of marriage but I would have never guessed that this sight would have caused the reaction that it did in Terry.  I think in some respects this may have been the highlight of his trip to Madison.  I was beginning to wonder about this man, seemingly cultured, who appeared to be so enthralled with the Oscar Mayer wienermobile.  I certainly remember the Oscar Mayer commercials as a kid and seeing pictures of the wienermobile but I can’t say that I was exhibiting the same emotions as my husband.  It wasn’t until Terry told me that he emailed this picture to our friend Les and she had a similar reaction that I am now feeling a little fragile about my own childhood.  What meaningful experience did I miss early in life?

Perhaps I was just focused on our next stop, Gail Abrosius Chocolatier.

 Gail specializes in dark chocolate delicacies only and they are like the food of the gods.  She has received notoriety from the Foot Network and has had an honorable mention in the Oprah Magazine, not to mention a wall full of other local awards that this woman has received.  We spent a lengthy amount of time there, inhaling the rich aromas and sampling the homemade Mexican chocolate gelato.  Of course we had to walk away with many varieties of her chocolate creations as well.  Since dark chocolate has such great antioxidant value, we were feeling pretty healthy when we walked out of her store.

A stroll along the Lake Monona waterfront and another State Street venture, along with dinner at Bukara, a popular East African restaurant, rounded out our day.

A visit to Madison is not complete without walking the grounds of the University of Wisconsin, which we did the following day.  Bascom Hall, seen below, is the main administration building of this esteemed campus and was named after John Bascom, former president of the university.

 Many of these buildings date back to the late 1800’s.  North Hall, the first university building, completed in 1851, is still in use.

Noteworthy also is Babcock ice cream, a homemade delicacy created in the dairy of the agricultural school, and served up daily in the Student Union.

Madison offers such a wide array of gifts to locals and visitors alike.  It is a cultural capital, with free jazz and orchestral concerts in the summer, as well as being a biking mecca.  Thank goodness for the miles of bike paths that provided us with exercise each day, to assist in burning some of the calories that we consumed while here.  My only regret is that we were not here on a Saturday to enjoy the farmer’s market that is held in the downtown capitol area.  I am told it is magnificent.

From Madison, we are taking a week-long respite in Door County.  Stay tuned for my thoughts on this enchanting part of Wisconsin.

Jellystone Park ~ Sioux Falls, SD

Jellystone, where even Yogi Bear has learned to reinvent himself.  It appears the infamous bear, in what looks to be semi-retirement, is now making appearances at select campgrounds, surprising birthday boys and girls.  Who woulda thought?!  Our friend, David, was wondering where he might be so I thought I would take a picture of Terry with Yogi to authenticate his existence (Yogi’s that is, but I suppose it would be nice to see that Terry is still alive and kicking!)

Terry was being a good sport here but did insist that I take the picture quickly!

We would typically prefer to stay at a state park, where there is hiking trails right outside one’s door but we are here to get some business done so we chose to stay at a park convenient to our needs.  Since we had licensed our vehicles here, we thought we should familiarize ourselves somewhat with Sioux Falls, the largest city in South Dakota.  Given that this is a city of no more than 158,200 people, there must be some wide open spaces in this state.

One of the main attractions in this city is Falls Park, first visited by Native Americans, and has been a source of industry and recreation since the founding of Sioux Falls in 1856. The park consists of 123 acres and includes a visitors’ center, 5-story viewing tower, the remains of the Queen Bee Mill and other historic buildings, the Falls Overlook Cafe, bike trails, and lots and lots of waterfalls.  Each second, an average of 7400 gallons of water drop 100 feet over the falls.  From Memorial Day through Labor Day, a laser and light show, featuring a history of Sioux Falls, is shown at dusk in the park.  Terry and I did attend this show and unfortunately were a bit underwhelmed.  We thought the falls were much more spectacular during the day.

Birds-Eye View of Falls Park
Falls with Remnants of Queen Bee Mill in Background

From the park we could see twin steeples of what looked to be a very interesting church so we decided to set out to get at up-close view.  St. Joseph Cathedral sits in the historic district of Sioux Falls and as we rounded the corner, we crossed over a cobblestone street, which took us back to Mexico, where most streets in colonial towns were cobblestoned and boasted beautiful churches.

Construction of this dramatic cathedral began the summer of 1915, on the site where St. Michael’s once stood.  The architect for this landmark passed away before seeing his finished product so one of his chief assistants oversaw the project and brought it to its completion in May, 1919.  A major 2-year interior renovation was just completed.  Sadly, we were not able to view the interior but the pictures online were striking.

Our last evening in Sioux Falls was spent strolling downtown, checking out the nightlife. Surprisingly there was lots of activity going on, friends enjoying drinks and dinner at sidewalk cafes, various little music venues to appreciate, unique shops to entice, and the most varied display of bronze figures sprinkled throughout the downtown area.

Street Scene

A couple of bronzes to enjoy.

Zen Birds
Am I Cute or What?!

Our one little indulgence for the night (and it wasn’t so little actually) was to stop at Sinful Things, a mother and daughter gourmet dessert shop, where we enjoyed two decadent little creations.  They were both former bankers who left the stress of corporate life to follow a dream and their desserts were heavenly!

Sinful Things Gourmet Desserts

We are headed back to Wisconsin, passing through Madison, then on to explore Door County.

Backbone State Park ~ Delaware County, IA

Backbone State Park in Delaware County, IA was our first stop once we got our bearings and spent some time familiarizing ourselves with our Mobile “Sweet”.  It is Iowa’s first state park and touted as her best.  It was named for a narrow and steep ridge of limestone, the “Devil’s Backbone” and it is very picturesque.

Many full-timers live by the “2/4/4 Rule” when traveling from one RV campground to the next.  Drive no more than 200 miles per day; drive no more than 4 hours per day; or drive no later than 4pm each day, whichever of the 3 comes first.  Being rookies, we broke all the rules the first day out but it did bring us to this nice park with a pull-through site and 50 amp service.  We did agree, however, that the 2/4/4 rule was a sound one to follow.

There is a lovely little beach within the park, on the shore of Backbone Lake, along with a charming boat house and beach house, constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps, using the local limestone.

Boat House

Hiking trails wind through the lush woods and other amenities include boating, trout fishing, bicycling and rock climbing.  We spent a couple of days wandering through some of the quaint little towns that dotted the Mississippi River.

McGregor is one of those charming little towns, sitting right on the river.  A local band played on the waterfront when we arrived, providing a welcoming ambiance.

McGregor Street Scene

Another day of exploring took us through the small town of Elkader, where we discovered the impressive St. Joseph Catholic Church, dedicated in 1900.  It has been enlarged to its present-day construction and built with local limestone in the Gothic Revival style.

St Joseph Catholic Church

Then it was on to Pikes Peak State Park, which provided us some remarkable views of the Mighty Mississippi.

Confluence of Wisconsin River with the Mighty Mississippi

Time to break camp and head to our next destination!

Chain O’ Lakes State Park ~ Spring Grove, IL

Since we purchased our rig in Antioch, IL, we decided to spend some time nearby, familiarizing ourselves with the systems.  It seems appropriate that we should begin this new adventure in the midwest, as Terry and I both grew up in this area, me in Illinois and Terry in Ohio.  Jay and Beth were kind enough to spend some time with us, answering questions, which I suspect would not occur with just anyone selling their RV.  They recommended Chain O’ Lakes State Park, and it did not disappoint.

For novices such as ourselves, there were many sites with ample space to back a 38 foot rig into and the sites were separated enough that we did not feel we were sitting on top of our neighbors.  The sites were neat and clean and heavily wooded, making for a very lovely stay.  The amenities in the park were many:  lot of lakes, great hiking trails, boating, canoe rentals, horse rentals, and fishing, just to name a few.

We came across a couple of birders while out hiking one day, who pointed out the elusive green heron to us, not readily seen and commonly referred to as “shypoke”.  It was a great treat for us.

Our friends, Bob and Jan, whom we met in Ajijic, Mexico, live just up the highway in Rockford, IL, so we spent a couple of days with them and they generously showed us their home town, as well as Lake Geneva, WI, a charming town with a great lake front.

Bob & Jan

Time to head down the road to Iowa!