Paint Your Landscape

Those Spectacular Canadian Rockies ~ Banff and Yoho National Parks

July 30, 2016LuAnn

While visiting friends in Cochrane, Alberta, we had to make the difficult decision of how to spread out our limited time in Canada. I recall when we lived in Yellowstone shaking our heads each time a visitor came into the park with a few short hours to spend. We wondered if it was worth the time to visit when so much would be missed. Here we were faced with a similar decision, during peak tourist season, and I found myself as excited as those first-time Yellowstone visitors, wanting to see it all. We were so close to many national parks so of course I wanted a taste of as much as possible, rationalizing that we could always return for more.

Our first stop was Banff National Park, in the Alberta province, where we pitched our tent for three nights at Lake Louise campground. What began as a 16 square mile hot springs reserve is now 4125 square miles of unparalleled mountain terrain, Canada’s first National Park, home to seven National Historic Sites. Banff, along with Jasper, Yoho, and Kootenay National Parks is recognized as part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

I thought our western mountains were breathtaking, but Canada really takes it up a notch with their Rockies, a beautiful melding of heaven and earth. There is an unspoiled “wild-ness” here, thanks to the ice-age glaciers acting as landscape sculptors, creating the rugged mountain ranges and gouging out the valley into a deep basin.

Spectacular glaciers and turquoise lakes above treeline on the Iceline Trail

The glaciers that covered the Canadian Rockies have vastly retreated but have left behind vivid memories found flowing in the turquoise and jade green waters, unusual gorges and canyons, and unique rock formations.

The next morning we set out for the much smaller Yoho National Park, in the province of British Columbia, and the second Canadian National Park. The unusual name for this park is a Cree expression meaning awe and wonder, which was exactly what we were feeling throughout our first hike in a Canadian park.

Although the smallest of the four parks that form the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it holds some of the oldest and most significant shale fossil beds in the world, as well as 36 peaks soaring above 10,000 feet. It packs a punch!

Takakkaw Falls - 830 foot drop in one stretch and 1260 foot drop in total, among the highest in Canada — Takakkaw Falls – 830 foot drop in one stretch and 1260 foot drop in total, among the highest in Canada

Since we had time for only one hike in Yoho, we chose a memorable hike, the Iceline Trail. There are several ways to tackle this hike, out and back, a shorter loop and the big loop. Guess which one I chose? 😉

Terry climbs to get a better view of Takakkaw Falls

The Iceline Trail via Little Yoho (the big loop) is 13-miles, with many of those above treeline. It’s roughly 3000′ of elevation gain made for a challenging hike, but the 360º views of glaciers, flowing streams, and one of the tallest waterfalls in all of Canada made it worth the effort.

One of the infamous red chairs found after completing the Iceline Trail.

The next day we decided to scale back our hiking and chose to hike the Lake Agnes Trail in Banff National Park to a European-style tea house, the highest tea house in all of Canada. It is probably the most “civilized” way to see the Rockies. The trail is 4-miles round-trip, with a 1300 foot elevation gain, just enough for me after our previous day’s trek.

And a visit to Banff is not complete without visiting the most iconic site in the park, the emerald waters of Lake Louise, where millions come every year to bask in her beauty. It is the most famous glacial lake in the Canadian Rockies, named for Princess Louise Caroline Alberta, daughter to Queen Victoria.

The world-famous Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise sits on the edge of the lake, striking an impressive pose. And it looked like millions were there on the day we visited and none spoke our native tongue.

Enough though we visited during peak season and had little time to explore, we wouldn’t have passed on getting a glimpse into these two spectacular Canadian parks, and we will definitely be back. I am already reading about Banff in the winter – snowmobiles, dog sleds, cross-country skiing, sleigh rides. Sounds like fun, doesn’t it? Hubby is not convinced. 😉

Next Up: Icefields Parkway

Friends Old and New

July 25, 2016LuAnn

“There are some people in life who make you laugh a little louder, smile a little bigger, and live just a little better.” ~ Anonymous

Wind turbines stand in the canola fields near Pincher Creek, en route to Cochrane

As we left Waterton Lakes National Park, our journey continued northward to Cochrane, one of the largest cities in the Alberta province and one of the fastest growing communities in all of Canada. It’s Western, outdoorsy culture, with rolling hills, turquoise rivers, trails and paths, set against a Rocky Mountain backdrop, was divine.

Cochrane was on our radar, as we couldn’t pass an opportunity to reconnect with friends Jim and Barb. We had met this lovely couple two years ago in Florida, where a quick introduction found us spending the rest of the evening and several days after talking like we had known each other our entire lives. We have since caught up with them in So Cal and were now looking forward to seeing them on their home turf.

Jim and Barb graciously extended an invitation to stay in their beautiful home. We couldn’t have had a lovelier experience had we stayed in the finest B&B.

The next several days we were treated to Barb’s scrumptious home-cooked meals and were the lucky recipients of Jim and Barb’s tour guide expertise, giving us a taste of Calgary (a beautiful city) and a full-day tour of Kananaskis Country, where the breathtaking Canadian Rockies surrounded us at every turn.

Our visit ended with an invitation to their annual block party, where 60+ neighbors warmly welcomed us into the fold. I found myself wishing for someone to adopt us. I was ready to pack my bags and head north.

And if that wasn’t enough, I had one more highly anticipated visit while in Cochrane.

When I was certain our travels were taking us to Cochrane, I reached out to a blogger friend in the hopes that she lived closed enough and was interested in meeting. She did and she was and a plan was hatched. And now I can say that I have met one of my favorite bloggers, Sue Slaght of Travel Tales of Life. If you aren’t already following her (and I’m sure many of you are) you really should check her out. Funny, engaging, and chock-full of adventure, Sue’s is the consummate blog that all tourism boards would love to know. Over coffee, both Sue and I agreed that meeting felt like reconnecting with an old friend.

Sue & me at Legacy Guitar House in Cochrane

I find meeting those who you can easily engage in conversation, yet find comfort in the silence, one of the most delightful pleasures in life.

We cannot thank Jim and Barb enough for their gracious hospitality, and hope to see them again next spring. As for Sue, I would have been so disappointed had we been so close and our paths hadn’t crossed. I hope this is just the first of many visits.

A sign outside a great restaurant, Anejo, in Calgary. Our crazy political scene is not lost on our friends north of the border.

Quiet, Uncrowded Waterton Lakes National Park ~ Alberta, Canada

July 20, 2016July 19, 2016LuAnn

What started at an annual Rotary meeting between clubs in Montana and Alberta quickly blossomed into an international spirit of cooperation, a convergence of like values, celebrating the peace and goodwill between two nations with the longest globally undefended border.

In 1932 Waterton Lakes National Park and Glacier National Park joined together as Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, the first of its kind. The joint efforts of both the U.S. and Canada are reflected in their wildlife and vegetation management, search and rescue programs, and joint interpretive programs. In 1995 Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park was designated a World Heritage Site.

In the 80+ years since, 138 international peace parks and similar protected transboundary areas have sprung up on five continents, some in the most combative corners of the globe.

While still in Glacier National Park I enrolled us for the International Peace Park Hike, an 8-mile hike along Upper Waterton Lake, which included a boat shuttle trip back from Goat Haunt. Jointly led by a Glacier Park Ranger and Waterton Park Interpreter, this seemed the perfect way to begin our Canadian adventure.

Bright and early on a gray, cloudy day we headed for Waterton Lakes National Park, giving ourselves plenty of time, or so we thought, to purchase tickets at the marina and meet our guides at the trailhead. Not aware of the road construction between Glacier and Waterton Lakes, the delays prevented us from arriving on time. To placate my disappointment, Terry convinced me that a rainy, foggy day wasn’t the best time for a hike or a boat ride. I reluctantly agreed.

We waited a couple of hours until the fog burnt off then proceeded to the same trailhead we missed earlier and hiked the Bertha Lake Trail, a 6.5-mile hike to an alpine lake. The switchbacks seemed to never end, and at one point I remarked to Terry, “there had better be a damn fine lake and waterfall at the end of this trail”…and there was.

After a pizza/microbrew meal and a stroll around town, we decided, weather permitting, that a hike to Crypt Lake should be on the agenda for the next day. It is rated by National Geographic as “one of the world’s most thrilling trails”. Sadly it was a wash-out as the rains moved in and stayed for the day. Nonetheless, we found Waterton Lakes to be a lovely little town, and vowed to return to finish the two hikes we had on the agenda.

“Shaped by wind, fire, and water, Waterton remains for all time a place of spectacular beauty, a Canadian legacy of mountains, lakes, prairies, forests, alpine meadows, and wildlife.” Our visit to Canada may have gotten off to a soggy start, but an anticipated visit to friends put the sun right back into our days.

Next up: Cochrane

“Crown of the Continent” ~ Glacier National Park

July 16, 2016LuAnn

“A man who keeps company with glaciers comes to feel tolerably insignificant by and by.” ~ Mark Twain

Imagine what the early explorers must have felt as they pushed their way across the Great Plains and saw a wall of mountains far in the distance. Imagine their amazement as they moved further west and those mountains loomed ever larger, peaks bathed in sunlight, surrounded by long finger-like lakes and rushing streams. As they moved deeper into the mountains, most likely bighorn sheep and mountain goats dotted the hillsides, while osprey and eagle glided overhead. Huge glaciers clung to the cliffs of the Continental Divide, instilling a sense of awe and wonder. Except for the swiftly retreating glacial ice, Glacier National Park still embodies much of this same spectacular scenery.

This was our first visit to Glacier and our 29^th national park to add to our slow-growing list. We have so much more to see! This trip was long overdue, as two previously planned visits were thwarted due to family emergencies. Our timing certainly wasn’t the best, this being the centennial – 100 years since President Woodrow Wilson signed legislation creating the new National Park Service. Record numbers of tourists are descending upon the parks this year and Glacier was no exception. But neither the hordes nor the rainy weather dampened our spirits.

While perusing displays in a visitor center, we stumbled across some interesting and alarming statistics about the glaciers in this beautiful park. In 1850 there were 150 glaciers; in 2010 only 25 remained. One placard we read claimed, “Current climate models suggest that all the glaciers in Glacier National Park will be gone by 2030.” This is a powerful example of what will be lost without global action to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

sperrydancer_web_5 — “Changing Balance/Balancing Change” dancer superimposed on Sperry Glacier – photo credit nps.gov

Terry reminded me as I remarked about the high treelines on the mountains that this is yet another example of global warming. As the treelines continue to rise, alpine areas will disappear. If this occurs, what will happen to the species that depend on them? Certainly something to ponder.

One of the highlights of a visit to Glacier is traveling the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a 50-mile meandering road that combines both history and breathtaking scenery. Many national parks we’ve visited have similar roads spanning their length and, while we have found all to be beautiful and unique, Glacier may take the top prize for those parks visited to date.

Plenty of time is needed to do this road justice, as the sights seem almost endless and the photo ops many. The lush Garden Wall section will slow you down, as often there are vertical rock faces that jut out into the winding roadway, but it is a magnificent stretch of road, not to be missed.

Our top 3 picks of the park are shown below. Granted, we didn’t see all this impressive national park has to offer, but everything we saw spoke to us. What better way to describe such beauty than through photos.

1) Going-to-the-Sun Road

Just a few magical moments found while “going to the sun”.

Haystack Creek Falls

Weeping Wall – roll up your window if you don’t want to get wet.

A quick pose before his escape

A section of the Going-to-the-Sun Road

Terry at Avalanche Creek

Glacier National Park, MT

Lake McDonald Lodge is reminiscent of a Swiss chalet with a hunting lodge atmosphere.

Wild Goose Island, one of the most iconic views in the park

2) Many Glacier

Situated in the northeastern corner of the park, it is often called the heart of Glacier. It was our favorite and certainly touched our hearts.

Rapids cascading through Lake Sherburne

Many Glacier Lodge

A more placid view of Lake Sherburne

A wildflower explosion

3) Hiking

More than 700 miles of trails meander through alpine meadows and creep up mountain passes. Iceberg Lake Trail and Ptarmigan Tunnel were given high marks by friends. Because both originated from the same trailhead and we had some gas left in our tanks after going to Iceberg Lake, we decided to trek to Ptarmigan Tunnel. And boy, was it a trek! This 15-mile combo trail, with about 3000 feet of elevation gain is a not-to-be-missed hike. Be forewarned that once you get to Ptarmigan Lake, there is a series of long, steep switchbacks to trek before you arrive at the tunnel, but it would be a sin to stop at the lake.

We had also planned to hike to Grinnell Glacier, which has significantly retreated in recent decades, but time escaped us. The wheels are already in motion for another Glacier visit. 🙂

Through the Ptarmigan Tunnel, a view of Lake Elizabeth and Canada far below

A fuzzy image of a snowshoe hare hiding in the brush during a heavy rain. My first sighting in the wild!

A few icebergs remain in Iceberg Lake.

A quick marmot shot before his retreat into the brush

Rapids cascading down from Ptarmigan Lake

Me heading to Iceberg Lake

Terry ready for Ptarmigan Tunnel

A view of Ptarmigan Lake from the tunnel

Next Up: Oh Canada, here we come!

A Discover Feature

July 14, 2016LuAnn

Cheri Lucas Rowlands, an editor at WordPress who manages the features and editors’ picks on Discover, has recently written a post on blogging nomads. We, along with two other amazing blogs, have been chosen. Check it out!