Mexico – Page 6 – Paint Your Landscape

Guanajuato ~ Part 2

October 15, 2010April 8, 2012LuAnn

Guanajuato means (in the Tarasco native language) “place surrounded by frog formed hills”. While hiking in the hills, supposedly two locals found many large rock formations shaped like frogs, hence the name given to this city. It is a colonial, silver mining city and, both culturally and historically, is one of the most important cities in all of Mexico. Built between the years 1548 and 1554, UNESCO declared it a “World Heritage Site” in 1988.

One focal point of the city is that of the Basilica of our Lady of Guanajuato, built between 1671 and 1696. Beautiful marble floors and crystal chandeliers reflect the grandness of this church. The altar is constructed of an impressive 40 kilograms of silver.

Being the typical tourists, we decided on Day 2 to take a tour of the city with one of the local guides, Agustin, to better understand the history of this vibrant city. We met him at the city’s center, in the Jardin de la Union.

We donned hard hats and took a 20-minute tour of a former silver and quartz mine, Mina El Nopal, then headed off to explore the Templo de San Cayetano, one of the most impressive churches, both inside and out, which was built on behalf of the local miners. Construction was begun in 1765 and completed in 1788 and has 3 altars of carved wood, covered with plaster to protect against termites, and given a finish of gold leaf. The organ is from Germany and the pulpit from China.

Two huge paintings adorn the walls of the church, created by a San Miguel de Allende artist, Luis Monroy, in 1885. He had a unique ability to embed a figure in his paintings that seemed to present from the same angle, no matter where one stood. The embedded figure in the painting below is that of the dove.

The next stop on our tour was most unusual, a museum entitled Hacienda Del Cochero, which featured instruments of torture. The tour was given by a young tour guide dressed as a Franciscan monk, with the peaceful sounds of Gregorian chants in the background. Below are just a couple of the ghoulish sights housed within this museum.

Is my head screwed on straight?! — Is My Head Screwed on Straight?!

The gardens, however, were just lovely and gave no indication of the horrors that lay within its walls.

The statue of El Pipila was the next stop, where terrific views of the city can be had and where history abounds.

This monument is a memorial to Jose de los Reyes Martinez, whose heroic actions allowed the rebels to enter the Royal Forces fortress, which was housed in the Alhondiga, originally built as a granary for the city and where Mexico’s first battle for independence took place. The Royal Forces used this building as a fortress due to its high vantage point overlooking the city.

El Pipila, a courageous miner, supposedly carried a lit torch, with a heavy stone slab balanced on his back to protect him from enemy fire, and set the entrance door to the Alhondiga on fire, allowing the rebels led by Miguel Hidalgo to defeat the enemy forces.

The four rebel commanders, Hidalgo, Aldama, Allende, and Jimenez, did not live to see Mexico win her independence from Spain. When they were captured by enemy forces, they were decapitated and their heads were displayed on the four corners of the Alhondiga for the next 10 years as a reminder to the Mexican citizens not to think about uprising again. Even this did not deter these courageous people in their fight for freedom.

Terry and I found ourselves going back to El Pipila later that same day; however, this time on foot up a very steep staircase. There is no lack of exercise opportunities in this city, right outside very door.

Our tour concluded with a visit to the Museo de las Momias, Museum of the Mummies. Photos are no longer allowed in this museum and many of the mummies were currently on loan to museums in Mexico City, Michigan and Los Angeles.

Here are just a couple of photos of the tunnels used by vehicles and pedestrians that run underneath the entire city, which is built into the hillsides.

A fruitful second day in Guanajuato!

Guanajuato ~ Part 1

October 15, 2010April 8, 2012LuAnn

Wednesday, the 6th, we struck out for places unknown, where the locals speak little English. Are we ready for this? Why not! A driver took us to Tonala, outside of Guadalajara, to the bus station, where we waited for our executive bus to transport us to Guanajuato. It was a 4-hour bus trip in very comfortable surroundings – large reclining seats, movies, lunch, with bathrooms and hot drinks on board.

Once at the bus station in Guanajuato, we headed out to hail a taxi. Many were already waiting for this type of transport, with none in sight, so we opted for a bus as we knew where we were going, sort of. This was a much different bus from what we had spent the last several hours on, narrow seats not made for those towing luggage. I sat down with a laptop bag at my feet, my daypack (stuffed) on my lap, and a large duffel bag hanging off the seat next to me. Terry sat behind me and how he managed to not have any luggage with him I do not know! Before we left the station, a very rotund woman came up to me and insisted that she was going to sit in the seat next to me and she was not taking no for an answer. Thankfully I did not know the Spanish word for “seriously” or I would have been very tempted to use it. I attempted to place our oversized duffel in my lap as well, and she decided to take up the rest of my lap, what there was of it. Every time we veered to the left, my ability to breathe was compromised significantly.

At one stop, in one of the 16 tunnels that snake through the city, used by both vehicles and pedestrians, most everyone began to exit, except for four of us, two gringos (Terry and I) and two Asians. We all looked at one another, then quickly got up and hopped off the bus, as we assumed the locals knew something we did not. As we emerged into the sunlight from the depths of the earth, we felt as if we had stepped into a European village. The scene was one of colorful houses climbing up the hillsides, competing with the local vegetation, balconies with flowerpots hanging off them, narrow winding streets, and shops and people everywhere.

Given that the annual International Cervantino Festival (the cultural event of Latin America) was commencing the following week, we felt the first order of business was to secure a room for the night. After finding no availability in a couple of hotels, we found a room for one night only at a funky little B&B named Hospederia del Truco 7. Thankfully, one of the patrons there assisted with English/Spanish translation.

Hospederia del Truco 7 (2) — Note the Singer Sewing Machine Base Under the Sink

Once settled into our room, we set off to explore the city. The first church that we happened upon (and there are many in this city) was the Templo de la Compania, built between the years 1747 and 1765. It was designed in the Barroque style common to this area and depicted many Jesuit images in pink stone. It was in the process of being restored and there was a service taking place at the time, so no inside photos for us!

Our next stop was the Universidad de Guanajuato, where 20,000 – 25,000 students enter through these doors to expand their education. This building was erected in 1950 and has the longest staircase of any building in the city, 82 steps from top to bottom. We were told that there is some local controversy over this building as it has a more modern design that the remainder of the city buildings.

Once you ascend to the top of the staircase, a nice view of the city is evidenced, of particular note the Statue of El Pipila (more to follow on the history of this statue) and the Fundicular (incline tram leading to the statue).

We continued to wander the streets of this colorful city and happened upon a rather bawdy production in the Plaza del Musico. Although we did not understand most of what was being said, actions speak louder than words, and we got the gist of it!

We thought we would finish off our first evening with a stop at The Italian Coffee Company, for a nice cup of chamomile tea, which we did, but had no idea the surprise awaiting us on our walk back to the hotel.

Mexico does not often embrace their Spanish heritage but one of the rare exceptions is that of the callejoneada, or roaming street party, which is just what we encountered as we headed for the winding staircase leading to our hotel. At least three times per week, student and professional singers, musicians, and storytellers, dressed in 17th century costume, parade down Guanajuato’s colonial streets, gathering a crowd as they go, like pied pipers. The entire mob winds through streets and alleyways, sharing wine and juice with the crowd from parrones (ceramic flasks with long spouts). It is difficult not to get caught up in the excitement!

What a wonderful way to end Day 1 of our adventure!

Sunday Stroll Through Ajijic

October 4, 2010April 8, 2012LuAnn

People often say that ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’, and I say that the most liberating thing about beauty is realizing that you are the beholder. This empowers us to find beauty in places where others have not dared to look, including inside ourselves. ~ Salma Hayek ~

Yesterday we ventured out to get some exercise and experience another part of Ajijic that was beckoning to us. This village is a feast for the eyes, no matter where one turns. Given that the rainy season seems to be ending, I wanted Terry to take some photos of the brilliantly colored flowers before they disappeared for the season. What began as an adventure to do just that became so much more, as can always be the case if we just open ourselves to the beauty around us.

Flowers grow in such abundance here and many times several varieties become entwined, as if they have realized that they need each other’s company to thrive.

As we winded our way up and down streets in search of unusual plants and interesting doorways, of which there is a plethora, we came upon a couple of local girls, one carrying a small bouquet of flowers. They looked like little cherubs, with their round smiling faces, and Terry tried to communicate with them that he would like to take their picture. They happily agreed and struck a pose.

Faces beamed when they saw their photo and I gave them each a few pesos for allowing us the opportunity. As they turned to leave, I was presented with their floral bouquet, which consisted of a few flowers, leaves, and a white feather.

With pesos in hand, they immediately headed to the corner tienda for snacks. I continued to carry the flowers with me until they began to fall apart, at which time I set them aside. No sooner had I done this than we encountered the two amigas again, with their younger sisters in tow. I felt bad that I no longer had the flowers with me and they immediately saw that this was the case so I was presented with a flor blanca (white geranium), which they asked Terry to pick for them, and a marble. We all said adios and parted ways. I secretly wondered if their generosity was due to the pesos presented earlier on, with the hope for more to come. Nonetheless, it was a beautiful gesture on their part and kept me smiling for quite some time.

As we continued, we discovered some beautiful doorways, of which an entire book could and probably has been dedicated. Here is just a taste of what one can see around every corner in this village.

All walls in Ajijic seem to be available as canvases for budding artists and pop up as frequently as many of the lovely flores do with the mixture of sunshine and tropical temperatures. They are varied and all tell a story, I am sure, although some not as obvious to newcomers such as us. We discovered many of these murals coming to life with the approach of Mexico’s Independence Day and continue to see them as we explore neighborhoods throughout the village.

Those Credited with Mexico's Independencia from Spain — Central Figures in Mexico's Independencia from Spain

Mural by Efren Gonzalez ~ Local Artist and Gallery Owner

Who knows what awaits our next foray? Until then, adios!

Hacienda Guadalupe

September 26, 2010April 8, 2012LuAnn

Welcome to our humble little abode south of the border! We have settled into a 2-bedroom, 2-bath rental house in the village of San Antonio Tlayacapan (Ta lie ya ca pon), which borders the village of Ajijic. To give some perspective, since we walk everywhere, it is a 20-minute walk into the heart of Ajijic, which is the area we had focused on prior to our move. To live here is to feel as if you have stepped back into the past about 50 years, given the cobblestone streets and caballeros on horseback in various parts of town. Terry and I still have a difficult time believing we are actually here, then we hear the occasional rooster and that seems to bring us back to the present!

In an attempt to draw you into our world, I thought I would take you on a tour of the house and gardens within our gated walls. Since we live in a very temperate climate, with the daytime temp hovering around 75 and a nighttime temp of 65 degrees, we are told everything grows here. The plants are numerous and very prolific, with brilliantly colored flowers. I have not yet studied the names of the plants that thrive here, but have already noted many that we grew during our time in Arizona. Given the increased humidity, I venture to guess that plants here grow at a much more rapid pace. One of our neighbors told us yesterday that if one were to cut the top off of a pineapple and plant it, a new pineapple would appear in about 6 months (hard to imagine).

We are nearing the end of the rainy season but almost daily we still receive some precipitation, or at least beautiful billowy clouds which drape down over the mountaintops. Many of the rainstorms arrive at night and the thunder and lightning that accompany them can be quite spectacular.

So, enough of my ranting. Let’s take a tour!

This is a view outside the gate of Hacienda Guadalupe, a very small community of 6 homes, with ours being the only rental.

Given that we live amongst other homeowners who take advantage of the perfect climate, we are enjoying the fruits of their labors. The gardens are just lovely!

You can tell who is not a homeowner here. Ours is a rather bland landscape compared to the rest of the neighborhood. We may have to do something about that!

Let’s take a peek into the inside of this lovely hacienda, shall we?

This is the kitchen, where all the serious cooking is done (once it is stocked).

The living room ~ note the brick ceiling, which is called a boveda in Mexico. It is the Spanish name for arch and is a very strong support system that insulates the house against both the summer’s heat and winter’s chilly nights. Most Mexican homes do not have heat or air conditioning and it is not an inconvenience, due to the temperate climate.

Next stop master bedroom, with a bath, office and walk-in closet off of it. Don’t I sound like a realtor trying to sell you something?

Note the use of the boveda once again for the ceiling.

Quaint little patio off the kitchen and master bedroom. Great place to enjoy a nice comida (lunch).

Welcome to our mirador, the covered rooftop terrace, where spectacular views of the lake and mountains can be found. Our guilty pleasure is to enjoy a great meal, accompanied by a lovely bottle of wine, or watch the sunset, also accompanied by a lovely bottle of wine, from this vantage point.

Here are a couple of views from our rooftop.

Did I mention that we have two bedrooms? Plenty of room for those wishing to escape the cold winters in the US! Until next time ~ adios!

Mexican Independence Day

September 16, 2010April 8, 2012LuAnn

I cry for liberty, I cry for the end of slavery, I cry for independence, I cry for Mexico! Viva Mexico, Viva! ~ El Grito attributed to Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla

Today Mexicans around the country are celebrating their bicentennial, 200 years since the beginning of the revolution that resulted in their freedom from Spanish oppression. A priest by the name of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, in the pre-dawn hours of September 16, 1810, led the uprising that began the 11 year struggle for independence. Although he did not live to see the freedom that he fought so hard for, as he was executed in June 1811, he is still known as The Father of Mexico.

Last evening, plazas throughout Mexico came alive with celebrations, reenactments of the struggles their ancestors experienced 200 years ago, along with gastronomic delights, music and dancing. We are told that these festivities should continue throughout the weekend. We spent a little time in the Ajijic plaza and could sense the pride and excitement of the locals in the air. At 11pm the church bells began to peal and the cohetes (fireworks) appeared, some beautiful and some just loud, although not as loud as we were warned that they can be during these festivals. These lasted about 20 minutes, which allowed us to get a good night’s rest (something we were not expecting).

This morning, while greeting the day with a wonderful cup of Mexican coffee, we heard drums, as from a marching band. Terry jumped up with his camera and out the door he went. An unexpected parade materialized, full of schoolchildren in uniform, marching bands, floats and strutting horses, with their caballeros donning traditional dress. It seemed that everyone who lived in this lovely village was on the sidewalk, smiling as these angelic children marched by. Terry seemed to capture the essence of this morning in the faces of the children.