Yellowstone National Park – Page 2

The Bison of Yellowstone ~ Yellowstone Forever Field Seminar Series, Part 1

September 14, 2017September 17, 2017LuAnn

“Advice from a bison: Stand your ground; have a tough hide; keep moving on; cherish wide open spaces; have a strong spirit; roam wild and free; let the chips fall where they may!” ~ Ilan Shamir

Our summer volunteering gig in Yellowstone National Park has drawn to a close, a bittersweet moment for us as we hung up bus keys for the last time and helped pack up the ranch. Our final days slowed to a leisurely pace as the crisp morning air announced the onset of fall. As we drove away from the Lamar Buffalo Ranch we agreed that this magical place had seeped into our souls. Without a doubt this summer, this park, has changed me.

One of many wonderful sunsets viewed from the ranch.

We are comfortably snuggled into a condo in the mountains of Colorado until we move to the big city of Denver later this month for a family gathering, so it seems the best time to reflect upon a summer of learning and meeting some of the most interesting people who have ever crossed our paths. We are always grateful to reconnect with old friends and meet other like-minded folks, and we did much of both these past several months. What a soul-enriching summer it has been!

We each supported a dozen field seminars this summer and, if asked, I could not choose my favorite, although the ‘Bison of Yellowstone‘ has always stayed near the top of my list. With two iconic instructors leading the course – Jim Garry, the consummate storyteller and expert of all things Yellowstone, and Harold Picton, one of the most seasoned Yellowstone Forever instructors and PhD bison extraordinaire, it made for a fascinating three days. I have been so captivated by these big, beautiful beasts that I couldn’t stop reading about them, consuming four books this summer, my favorite being “The American Bison”, by Dale Lott.

A bison strolling through the ranch early in the summer, prior to losing his winter coat.

Yearling bison with a cowbird hitchhiker, who eats insects off the ground around the bison’s head.

Although so many who come to this first ever national park are in search of grizzly and wolf, and I too loved watching them through our spotting scopes at the ranch, I have always loved the bison, proud symbol of our American West. After supporting this class, which took place during the bison rut, the love affair has only grown.

Who wouldn’t love this prehistoric-looking creature, whose history dates back over two million years to Eurasia? They have a long, beleaguered history and, with all they have endured through the centuries, they have still cleverly learned to adapt to their current environment. Their complex anatomy allows them to thrive where other species would falter. They have a blood supply that acts as a great temperature regulating system, cooling their brain as they expel water through their nose. Their digestive system is a regular ecosystem, allowing them to eat various types of plants and grasses easily. And due to the heavy insulation on their front-end, they fare far better in winter than other wildlife, with little change to their metabolism until temperatures dip to -40ºF.

A little red dog with mom, just a few weeks after birth.

No longer red but still being nursed by mom.

Each season provides an interesting study into the life of a bison – spring, when the calving occurs and the “red dogs” can be seen frolicking in the lush green grasses; summer, when the bulls become more agitated as they march towards the “rut”, the breeding season when testosterone-laden bulls strut their stuff and display their male dominance; fall, when the cows and calves band together and bulls begin their solitary foraging months, preparing for the desolate cold to come; and winter, when the bitter cold winds and the predatory wolf determine who will survive.

A small part of a larger herd seen in the Lamar Valley.

When I look upon the vast Lamar Valley dotted with bison, it is difficult to believe that in the early 19th century this herd had dwindled to no more than two dozen head, due to unconstrained poaching in the park. Today the herd has grown to ~ 4,000 in the northern range and roughly 5,200 throughout the park, thanks to the creation of the Lamar Buffalo Ranch around 1907. There are no cattle genes in this herd, unlike all others, making it possibly the only true wild herd remaining and the herd with the greatest chance of survival. Disease and sterility are the greatest threats to herds not truly ‘wild’.

A beautiful bull and his affectionate cow seen on the ranch during the rut.

Living at the Buffalo Ranch these past four months provided us with the rare opportunity to witness bison behavior up-close, from the safety of our cabin or the bunkhouse. On many occasions large numbers of these beautiful animals, bulls, cows, and calves alike, graced us as they wandered across the campus. Their presence reminded us that this is their home and we are just mere visitors.

If you are interested in learning more about the educational programs offered by Yellowstone Forever, go to www.yellowstone.org and check them out. You won’t be disappointed.

Next Up: The rut, filled with bison love and aggression.

Disclaimer: The views expressed here are my own and do not necessarily represent the views of Yellowstone Forever.

Where the Wild Roam Free ~ Yellowstone National Park

August 22, 2017August 22, 2017LuAnn

Life as a Yellowstone Forever volunteer at the Lamar Buffalo Ranch has been fascinating – intellectually stimulating, spiritually enriching, a kindred spirit gathering, if you will. There is a flip side, however, to this invigorating environment. It is fast-paced and can leave one a bit fatigued at the end of a long day, but we believe the rewards have far outweighed any weariness felt. As someone who longs to write about the wisdom gained this summer, sadly my schedule and being “off the grid” at the ranch has denied me the time. It seems I will be revisiting my Yellowstone adventures long after we leave on September 7th, which we allow me to reflect upon a summer lived on this landscape and how my spirit has flourished from this intimate exposure.

Until I have time to sit down and write a proper blog post on life here in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (and I have so much material with which to entice), I thought I would share some of the summer wildlife sightings we’ve seen in this magical wonderland.

Enjoy!

Bighorn sheep spotted while hiking Specimen Ridge

Northern red-shafted flicker, a member of the woodpecker family, also seen during our Specimen Ridge hike

Although I didn’t have the lens to properly snap this crafty weasel’s photo, he reluctantly came out from under a cabin and posed for me. I think he got weary of me stalking him!

I almost stepped on this fawn during a morning walk on the Buffalo Ranch grounds. Her mama most likely hid her in the sage to protect her from predators.

Peregrine falcon nesting above the Yellowstone River. Terry was looking at him through a spotting scope and used his iPhone to take this shot.

Male pronghorn resting among the wildflowers

Uinta ground squirrel peeking out of the sagebrush

Mama grizzly and her cub in the upper-right corner of the photo. We were caught in a huge bear jam so I jumped out of the car and grabbed this photo.

Another predatory bird, an osprey with a meal, who Terry captured with his iPhone through a spotting scope.

This little cutie was found up in the Beartooth Mountains and couldn’t seem to get close enough to me for a chance to get his photo taken. What an adorable marmot!

This little fledgling, the last robin to leave the nest, was found later that day, having been attacked by a Uinta squirrel…RIP little one.

Little “red dog” with horns beginning to bud

This mountain bluebird seemed to be toying with me as I patiently waited for him to land on a tree branch.

This shiny black bear had just gotten out of Phantom Lake, romping through the water, as I sat in a bear jam. Notice the red ear tag.

This massive bull bison walked down the road, right by us, and up on the hillside during my bison class.

I waited until August to finally see this magnificent bird, the trumpeter swan.

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Lamar Valley Rhythm ~ Yellowstone National Park

August 3, 2017August 5, 2017LuAnn

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts. … There is something infinitely healing in the repeated refrains of nature — the assurance that dawn comes after night, and spring after winter.” ~ Rachel Carson, Silent Spring

Beartooth Mountains seen from the Lamar Buffalo Ranch

Golden fingers caress the eastern sky, drawing back the darkness and the sense of mystery that blankets this ethereal landscape. The playing of light and shadows across the mountain peaks seems to evoke a spiritual presence. It is the dawning of a new day in the Lamar Valley, a magical landscape that must be felt, as words fail to describe the sublime sense of serenity this wild landscape evokes.

Time spent at the Lamar Buffalo Ranch, immersing oneself in nature, can be soul-cleansing. It opens the senses more fully, forces us to move “in the moment”. Nothing here feels commonplace, from the robin who sings her melodious morning song perched on a rustic cabin, to the lyrical gurgling of the swollen stream that rushes past the ranch, to the tiny barn swallows perfecting their aerial dance above. Everything is observed through a microcosm of acute clarity.

One of the robins who greeted us daily with her melodic song

Welcome to the Lamar Buffalo Ranch

The lyrical sound of Rose Creek is always welcome.

The air smells like sage, sunshine, and fecund earth. Winter snow melt and spring rains provide Lamar a cool, deep drink, resulting in a verdant valley. Springtime heralds the arrival of the “red dogs”, bison calves cavorting in the supple green grasses, never far from mom when they feel the need to suckle. The swollen streams that rush through the valley in the spring slow to a languid crawl in summer and bison graze placidly along the valley floor as far as the eye can see. As the lushness of spring surrenders to the warming of late summer, snorts and bellowing grunts carry over the breeze, broadcasting the “rut”, the bison’s mating season, when bull dominance ranking is challenged.

A bull bison readying himself for the rut

Little “red dog” with horns beginning to bud

Bison dot the landscape of the Lamar Valley.

Beyond the human sight, wolf, grizzly, and coyote roam the shadows of the forest edges, awaiting that perfect moment when they are called to action, with the chance to provide a needed meal for their hungry families. A familiar wolf pack, the Junction Butte pack, can often be seen hunting in the valley, reminding us of the disquieting nature that is the circle of life in the wild. There is a poetic justice to knowing that these predators are part of the fabric of this lush landscape.

One can feel the sense of timelessness here in the Lamar Valley. As the sun sinks lower into the western sky, the trumpeting call of the sandhill cranes wafts across the deepening shadows. The majestic mountains looming over the valley floor reflect the geologic clashing of the forces of nature, and remind us of the intimate connection we all have with the wilderness, no matter our place in life. To lose any part of these untrammeled wild spaces would mean a loss of part of our humanity.

A double rainbow emerges over the Lamar Buffalo Ranch following an afternoon rain shower.

The Lamar Buffalo Ranch is an intrinsic thread woven into the Yellowstone history. A visit to the park would be incomplete without experiencing the magic of the Lamar Valley.

Citizen Science ~ Yellowstone Forever Field Seminar Series

July 16, 2017August 5, 2017LuAnn

“The real wealth of the Nation lies in the resources of the earth soil, water, forests, minerals, and wildlife. To utilize them for present needs while insuring their preservation for future generations requires a delicately balanced and continuing program, based on the most extensive research. Their administration is not properly, and cannot be, a matter of politics.” ~ Rachel Carson

I recently had the opportunity to support one of Yellowstone Forever’s naturalist programs, Citizen Science. Although I have now supported many field seminars, this program continues to evoke special memories for me. Along with seeing breathtaking sights, as we do with all programs; e.g. wildlife, birds, plants, etc., and studying new and interesting topics, this was an opportunity to take the knowledge and data we collected and give back. The research we conducted and data we garnered from the field was passed to the National Park Service, with whom we have a collaborative relationship.

What is Citizen Science?

Citizen Science is the name given to projects and activities sponsored by a broad array of organizations, state and local government, community environmental groups, and international organizations. It is a wonderful way for “non-scientists” to make a difference. Citizen Science programs allow the average layperson to contribute to scientific studies by supporting professional researchers.

Who can participate?

Volunteers of all ages who are concerned with the environment can participate in Citizen Science programs.

The Citizen Science program I supported through our Yellowstone Forever field seminar was three-pronged. The first day we hiked to a one-hundred meter transect that had been laid out earlier by our instructor, Joshua. We collected data on the specific wildflowers we located there, broken down into quadrants.

Students inspecting wildflowers along the transect

Our second day was focused on the invertebrates feeding and pollinating these wildflowers. This study was led by the park entomologist, Erik. We set up pit-fall traps at the transect the evening before and the next morning hiked back to the transect, doing net-sweeping to capture insects in the area, checking and emptying our pit-falls to see which insects had visited the previous night, and participating in timed observations to see which insects were actively pollinating the plants. We returned to the classroom to look at these interesting little invertebrates under the microscope and learned how to mount insect samples, like you might find in the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C.

Kay net sweeping for insects

Sucking up bugs for transport to their private little vial

Our entomologist Erik instructing us in the fine art of insect mounting

Our final day found us gleefully standing in the pouring rain and hail to study collared cow bison. This bison survey was led again by Joshua. Our research took us to a specific area of the park where telemetry had given him the information we needed to locate the collared cows within a herd. Our task was to count how many cows, bulls, and yearlings we found, determine if the collared cows had any calves, and collect fresh scat and grasses found in the area where the herd was congregated.

Waiting in the inclement weather to find our collared cow bison

Joshua directing inquisitive yearling bison

Success as mom and her calf reunite

Many of the yearlings were quite inquisitive but never aggressive as we approached. It bears mentioning that wildlife should not be approached in this manner without a professional guiding the way. It took some time for us to determine if one little “red dog” belonged to the collared cow, but eventually the adorable little calf wandered over to mom, touching noses, a tender moment that registered success. We collected our necessary samples and moved along, letting the bison do what they do best, munch their way across the meadow.

We had an incredible three days, learned an immense amount about the landscape we walked, and left with the students feeling euphoric about what had been accomplished.

If you have a passion for nature and would love to give back, here are a few organizations that have established Citizen Science programs, also known in some circles as Citizen Naturalists:

Look for Citizen Science programs in your area. Happy researching!

Disclaimer: The views expressed here are my own and do not necessarily represent the views of Yellowstone Forever.

Intro to Wolf Management & Ecology ~ Yellowstone Forever Field Seminar Series

June 21, 2017LuAnn

After a few weeks of preparation, it was finally time to support my first field seminar, Intro to Wolf Management and Ecology. Since the reintroduction of wolves to Yellowstone in 1995, debates relative to this alluring creature have been tireless and complex. Wolf watchers in the park are enamored by them, ranchers and hunters not so much.

Sunrise at Slough Creek, site of an active wolf den.

I had heard several park employee discussions on the topic of reintroduction of the wolf, namely Doug Smith, project leader for the Wolf Restoration Project, since our arrival to the park. He has studied wolves for the past 20+ years and still brings the same passion to the topic as he did as a Yellowstone freshman. I was anxious to hear some fresh views on this subject from our class instructor, Jon Trapp. Beyond embracing many of the views presented by Doug, Jon also spoke on the topic of wolf denning, subject of his master’s thesis.

Our classroom time took us through the past couple of decades since reintroduction, how many of the wolves have been collared and tracked, the family dynamics of how they hunt together, and what happens when an alpha member of the pack is killed. It was most informative and supporting this field seminar added another dimension to my time at the Buffalo Ranch.

Wolves get a bad rap, some of it deserved, as they do kill some livestock. No rancher wants to work hard to grow their herd, only to have a predator take from him. The good news is that when this happens, the rancher is compensated for his loss.

Hunters who share the sentiment that the only good wolf is a dead wolf feel that the elk population has been jeopardized by the reintroduction of the wolf. It is true that the mainstay of the Yellowstone wolf’s diet is elk; however, statistics have shown that many more elk are taken down by cougars than wolves. I learned that 85-95% of the time when hunting an elk, the wolf is not successful, and their elk hunting is compensatory, killing weaker elk who were most likely going to die anyway.

Instructor Jon Trapp balanced over an abandoned wolf den

Our field studies were the most exciting, taking us to an area of the park where we could view an active wolf den using spotting scopes. Watching the pups emerge from the den, tumbling over one another, frolicking in the sunlight, delighted us all. Jon also took us to one of the first acclimation pens, Rose Creek, where we read the story of the first alpha female to the reintroduced to the park. On another outing we inspected an abandoned wolf den.

Rose Creek acclimation pen where the first of the wolves were reintroduced

Our class reading the story of alpha wolf #9 at the Rose Creek acclimation pen

Class photo

With the wolf’s return to the world’s first national park, Yellowstone has regained its balance of historic mammals and is now described as the largest intact ecosystem in the temperate world. We now see this region as it was before the Europeans arrived.

Biologists and scientists spend significant time in the field tracking the wolves of Yellowstone, but in the end what matters most is that we carved out another little piece of wildness with their reintroduction. We need these wild spaces, their coarseness, erratic ebbs and flows, the magic and mystery.