Minnesota – Paint Your Landscape

Advice from a Wolf ~ Trust your instincts. Be at home in nature. Keep your den clean. Stand fur what you believe. Howl with your friends. Be a leader. Pack life with good memories. ~ Ilan Shamir

Wolves – a most controversial subject, across the ages and around the globe. And why not, as we were raised to fear this highly intelligent creature, as far back as medieval times. They have become associated with what we instinctively fear – the dark, light of a full moon in the deep, dark forest, lonely howls.

Image credit - Wikipedia — Image credit – Wikipedia

The tale of Little Red Riding Hood, a book many had read to them in their childhood, dates back to the 1700’s, originally published by French author Charles Perrault. Although the storyline has changed over the years, passed from French, to German, to English hands, one thing has remained constant, the big bad wolf.

The legend of the werewolf has swirled around since Ancient Greek times, 9th to 6th century BC. Although each country has its own theory on how one shape-shifts from man to beast, folklore abounds.

Spanning the globe there have been many reports of wolf attacks on humans, with India seeming to have one of the largest problems with this issue today. The fact remains, however, that the primary food source for this canine is ungulates – horses, cattle, deer, bison, elk. Experts believe that wolf attacks against humans are the result of a diseased animal, human habituation, a defensive measure when provoked, or when a food supply is not readily available. Otherwise, the wolf tends to fear man, particularly in North America.

Our love affair with wolves was born several years ago in Yellowstone National Park, where Terry had the good fortune to assist the wolf biologists in some of their public education seminars. He was immediately enthralled with the various packs within the park and shared much of what he learned with me. There was nothing more thrilling back then than to stand with the wolf watchers on a crisp, clear Yellowstone winter morn, watching this magnificent, resourceful wild animal. Terry was blessed to see them interact as a family unit at the den and watch an entire pack celebrate a successful hunt, their yips and howls reverberating in the cold dawn. Speak to a rancher surrounding Yellowstone lands and his perspective takes on a whole different light. Loss of his livelihood, his livestock, is most likely foremost in mind, as well it would be.

The International Wolf Center was the reason for our side trip to Ely, MN. Their mission is clear, to “educate the public by offering the most up-to-date, accurate wolf information possible”. They envision a world where wolves co-exist peacefully with humans. The programs presented at the center by their interns are informative and passionately presented. The ambassadors at the wolf center are playful, mesmerizing, beautiful. So without further adieu, let’s meet the pack!

Six year old Aidan, 136 pounds, is the “alpha male”. Much more elusive than his mates, he seemed to carry an air about him that clearly spoke of his status in the pack.

Denali, also six years old, 134 pounds, loved to ham it up for the photographers, often coming to the window for photo ops. His and Aidan’s lineage goes back to that of the Yellowstone wolves.

Two-year old Boltz, weighing in at 112 pounds, was relaxed when his older siblings weren’t present, but clearly knew his place in the pack when they arrived on the scene.

Little Luna, two years old and the only female in the pack, is a slim 91 pounds, but we were told she can hold her own when food is presented, often times taking more than her share. She and Boltz are of the Great Plains sub-species.

If you find yourself near Ely, regardless of your opinion on this beautiful creature, the International Wolf Center is a fascinating place to visit. Yes, the wolf’s place among humans is a very controversial topic, but I wonder, if we humans cannot embrace tolerance, will we ultimately lose a piece of the wild places? And speaking of wild places, throw a kayak into the Boundary Waters while you are there. We did, and loved it!

Impending storm over the boundary waters

Known as the “Land of 10,000 Lakes, Minnesota’s name originates from the Dakota Sioux Indian word for “clear water” or “sky-tinted water”. We came to tour the North Shore, to bask in the vastness of Lake Superior and hike some of the beautiful trails we had read about along this stretch of Minnesota. In our woefully limited time we saw a few of her flowing rivers and lakes and found the name given by the natives well-suited.

Lake Superior, sometimes smooth as glass, sometimes raging in a Nor’easter, has stunning rugged cliffs tumbling to pebble beaches laden with agates and driftwood and is the main attraction along Scenic Hwy. 61, which runs the length of the North Shore. With plans to hike and to check another national park off our list we found ourselves traversing this scenic roadway daily. If you are not a hiker there is still so much to do here that you could arrive mid-summer and stay through the fall colors and never want for interesting activities.

The only downside to this stretch of road is the lack of big-rig friendly campgrounds. We settled for three days at Knife River Campground which had a handful of sites to accommodate us. It was none too exciting but we spent little time there and Randy, who manages the park, provided wonderful tips for restaurants. We found some of the best sugar-cured smoked trout and salmon at Russ Kendall’s Smokehouse, such melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness that we just had to go back a second time to take some on the road with us.

If hiking through dense forests of fir, cypress, and birch, along rushing river gorges sounds heavenly, this slice of Minnesota is for you. Many of the hiking trails find you walking sections of the Superior Hiking Trail, 296 miles of ridgeline overlooking Lake Superior from Duluth to the Canadian border.

A few fun facts about Lake Superior:

biggest of the Great Lakes at 350 miles long by 160 miles wide
contains 10% of the world’s fresh water
average depth of 439 feet with its deepest at 1333 feet
average water temp of 42º F
largest recorded wave height of 31 feet
over 350 shipwrecks with more than 1000 lost

There are so many quaint little towns along this scenic drive, with great little restaurants, breathtaking views of Lake Superior, roaring waterfalls, cascading rivers, lovely lighthouses, so very much to delight your senses. If you have only three days to visit the North Shore like us, stop into the Superior Hiking Trail Association store in the little town of Two Harbors for trail maps if you are looking to experience some off-road excitement. The staff recommended the 5-mile Split Rock River Loop Trail and 7-mile Bean and Bear Lakes Loop Trail and we enjoyed both.

Split Rock River Loop Trail views:

Bean and Bear Lakes Loop Trail views:

The most visited spot on the North Shore is the Split Rock Lighthouse, majestically sitting on a 130-foot cliff at Lake Superior’s edge, near the town of Beaver Bay. Put into service after 29 ships were damaged during the infamous storm of November 1905, this light station was in use until 1969. What was once a beacon of safety for passing ships is now an icon for visitors to the North Shore. Watch for the “Thousand Footers” (ore boats) coming into the harbor near Beaver Bay. The crowds were so deep when we arrived at the Visitor’s Center that we opted to enjoy this beauty from the overlook on Hwy. 61 instead.

Final destination for our Minnesota coastal tour is Grand Portage, gateway to Isle Royale National Park, six miles shy of the Canadian border. Stay tuned for my next post on this roadless land of wild creatures and unspoiled forests.