Rubbing Elbows with the Mega-Wealthy and a “Darling” of an Island

We are settled into the lovely Neopolitan Cove RV Resort in a city that has been called the “crown jewel” of southwest Florida, “well-known for its high-end shopping, world-class culture and sophisticated dining”.  This city has the 6th highest per capita income in America, the second highest proportion of millionaires in the US, and showcases some of the most expensive real estate around.  This is Naples, Florida and no, not where you would normally find us, rubbing elbows with the mega-wealthy, out on the town for a night of elegant dining.  My silk suits and fashionable pumps have gone the way of my stressful corporate job as have Terry’s suits.  We much prefer hiking boots, walking shoes or bouncing about on our bikes these days.

I was not going to be quieted until I knew I would be within striking distance of a day-trip to the darling of an island I had heard so much about, and Naples offered us this springboard when other locations were already booked.  Florida is snow-bird haven so if you hesitate, you lose, when it comes to making winter RV reservations.

There is no denying the striking beauty found in Naples.  We have oohed and aahed our way through the charming historic district, both on foot and bikes while on our way to the Naples Fishing Pier, one of the city’s better-known landmarks, tucked away in a residential neighborhood.  It is where we have spent much of our time, walking the white-sand beach and enjoying picnics, while waiting with the locals and tourists alike to take in the spectacular sunsets, and there have been a few of those.

Even in the lap of luxury, white-sand beaches and stunning sunsets to entice, there was nothing I wanted more than to head to Sanibel Island and breathe in the symbiotic essence of J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge, the most visited wildlife refuge and one of the hottest birding spots in the country, with ~ one million visitors yearly.

The story of how this sanctuary came to be is one built on passion and a reverence for the world’s natural resources.  The man, Ding Darling, was best known for what paid his bills, a career as an esteemed editorial cartoonist, appearing in 150 newspapers nationwide, which earned him two Pulitzer Prizes. But it was his passion for nature and wildlife that breathed life into this most precious of refuges.

In the early 1940’s, Ding was distressed by news that the State of Florida was ready to strike an agreement with developers to sell off over 2200 acres of Sanibel Island’s virginal mangrove wetlands.  He sprang into action and with the help of a few friends, convinced the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to lease the land, protecting this important wildlife habitat.

When Ding passed away in 1962, admirers and friends came together to form the J. N. “Ding” Darling Foundation.  Their 5-year struggle to take these leased lands, acquire them, and place them under the Federal ownership of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service secured these pristine wetlands for an abundance of wildlife, our enjoyment, and secured the profound legacy of this very special man – J. N. “Ding” Darling.

Land meets sea, saltwater melds into freshwater, and temperate climate kisses tropical warmth as you step inside this wildlife preserve.  The 4-mile drive takes you through sea grass meadows, tidal flats, and mangrove forests, with birders and photographers waiting around every curve to share their knowledge and love of this precious refuge.

We arrived as the gates opened at 7am.  The quiet beauty of this place greeted us and we knew we had come at the perfect time.   We meandered along the drive, stopping when yet another unique bird made her appearance.   We then walked four miles of trails in the hopes of finding a few other hidden treasures. Neither alligators nor the resident crocodile greeted us, although we are assured of seeing plenty of both during our stay later this month in the Everglades.

I could not entice some of the birds to get within my lens’ reach, particularly the roseate spoonbill, who is on the top of my “up-close and personal” to see list.  For that treat, I urge you to check out Raven and Chickadee’s (better known as Eric and Laurel) post on Sanibel Island, or Ingrid of Live, Laugh, RV, who didn’t have to trek to Sanibel to see this “pretty in pink” beauty.

Sanibel Island is best seen on bike, sporting 22 miles of paved trails and is the ultimate way to afford stress-free travel, as the roadways onto and off the island get pretty congested.  Some of the best shelling beaches in the world can be found here at Sanibel, although we could not attest to the variety of shells we had seen in photos.   That might be because I didn’t practice my “Sanibel Stoop”, digging with a net along the shoreline for these little treasures.

Artistry on Sanibel Beach
Artistry on Sanibel Beach

From Naples we head to Midway Campground in Big Cypress National Preserve, where we venture into the swamplands of the Everglades.  I am told we may be without both cell phone and internet coverage so until we return to civilization once again, have a wonderful week! 🙂

Clearwater’s Chemistry

Clearwater, a beautiful Florida coastal city, has much to offer and has a chemistry all its own but the chemistry I speak of in this post is that which we humans find with others.

Joyful children delight visitors at cultural center.
Joyful children delight visitors at cultural center.

We have spent the past ten days in Clearwater being quite the social butterflies, so much more than normal that this little introvert is going to need some alone time to decompress (lol)!  Don’t get me wrong, our time spent here catching up with old friends and meeting new ones has been fabulous!    It seems that many of Terry’s former high-school friends have settled around the Clearwater area so there has been many a get-together, with good food and drink, thanks to the efforts of high-school chum Norm.   Our waistlines have suffered a bit from all this fun but we have been rewarded with many pleasant memories.  Good friends Doug and Donna  migrated south for a vacation to escape the frigid temps of Ohio and their daughter Kelley joined them, getting a break from the Windy City winter.  And we caught up with two couples we shared many laughs with at Amazon.

Terry's high school buds & spouses - Dawn, Rick, Terry, Jim, Doug, Donna, Joyce & Norm
Terry’s high school buds & spouses – Dawn, Rick, Terry, Jim, Doug, Donna, Joyce & Norm
Amazon buddies - Jim, Sharon, Rich, me, and Pat
Amazon buddies – Jim, Sharon, Rich, me, and Pat

For those in the RVing community, there is always a level of excitement at the prospect of meeting someone whose blog you have followed for some time. We were very pleased to have met a couple who have been on my “must meet” list for a long time.  As time passed I thought we were going to be two ships passing in the night and I was feeling a bit sad but the stars aligned properly and a brief window of opportunity presented itself.  Emails were exchanged; plans made; and we found ourselves heading over to Cortez to have lunch with John and Pam Wright of Oh, The Places They Go.  They were as delightful as I knew they would be and we walked away feeling like we were catching up with old friends instead of meeting for the first time.  With the hopes of meeting up again near DC later this year and discussion of hiking out west together, the day ended on a perfect note.

Me, Pam, and John
Me, Pam, and John
John & Terry on the beach at Anna Maria Island
John & Terry on the beach at Anna Maria Island

I had a similar experience several days earlier with another blogger friend, someone I have followed for quite a while, a brilliant landscape photographer who took time out of his busy schedule (in Clearwater on assignment) to have coffee.  What started as a quick cup of coffee ended 2.5 hours later, having covered quite a bit of territory outside the photography realm, as I promised myself I would not harass him for tips.  Ok, since photography is his passion, he generously shared a few tidbits with me, for which I am most grateful. 🙂  For those who haven’t guessed by now, I met up with none other than the talented Rick Braveheart.   If you have yet to see his work, I urge you to go here and check it out.  I promise you will not be disappointed.   As we were saying our goodbyes, I asked for a photo and a quick selfie was taken with Rick’s iPhone.  I avoid close-ups of myself at all costs so sadly Rick’s arm just wasn’t long enough for me to proudly display a photo!   You are just going to have to trust me that there was a chance meeting. 😉

All of this socializing has got me wondering about why we connect so strongly with some?  Common ground is one reason that brings us together initially, which seems to be obvious in the RVing world.  Those who have a wanderlust for travel, a love of nature, enjoy the same recreational activities; i.e. hiking, biking, kayaking, photography, seem to gravitate toward one another.  But there is that certain something that transcends the similar interests after you meet, the comfortable silence in-between the conversation when you know you have met someone special.

As many of us do, I have a diverse group of bloggers I follow.  Writers, artists, photographers, international travelers…the list goes on.   What draws us together, satisfying that desire to learn more about the person behind the computer screen, half a world away?  Since we will most likely never meet face-to-face, yet we are drawn to one another, I believe that the chemistry between others cannot be explained by science alone.  It feels more like a spiritual connection to me, familial, déjà vu, a sense you have known that person before.  Experiencing this kind of chemistry with others rejuvenates me and as I get to know them better, whether virtually or in person, I feel I discover another little piece of me. 🙂

Just a few of our fine feathered friends we saw while in Clearwater:

Honeymoon Nesting

Some may think we have been married far too many years to be considering a honeymoon, but that is exactly what we did recently.  While we didn’t do much nesting while on said honeymoon, I must admit to being a teensy bit of a voyeur, watching those who were nesting. 😯

If you winter or live near Dunedin, Florida (just outside Clearwater), you may have guessed that we spent a day visiting Honeymoon Island State Park, a mere three miles from where we are staying at Dunedin RV Resort.  On a recent sunny day (it is raining and blustery as I sit here typing 😦 ) we hopped on our bikes and headed to Honeymoon to check out what the hype was all about.

Biking the nature trail,on the hunt for osprey
Biking the nature trail, on the hunt for osprey

An unusual name for a state park, its origins began as Hog Island until 1939, when New York developer Clinton Washburn, coupled with LIFE magazine, held a contest for newly married couples.  The winners received an all expense paid two-week honeymoon in a romantic palm-thatched bungalow on Honeymoon Island.  Although the bungalows were abandoned at the start of WWII, the name of the island stuck.

Today you can bike the island, kayak around the 4-mile shoreline, throw a line in the water, or grab a beach chair and umbrella and soak up some rays on a white sand beach, lulled by the rhythmic melody of the waves.

Just another day at the beach!
Just another day at the beach!

You can choose instead to do what we found to be the most exciting, walk the 2-mile nature trail to spot osprey and eagles nesting.  This is the time of year where mom and dad are busily feeding and guarding their chicks so there was much activity on the nests and the osprey’s high-pitched whistling was an ongoing symphony as we walked along the path.  With so many nests in this section of the park, it is tough to decide just which one to focus on.  This is a place where one need not wonder if they will see wildlife, rather how many.

Osprey thrive on the island but they are not the only predators you may see on your visit.  At the far end of the nature trail, behind a protected fence, a pair of bald eagles guard a nest housing two chicks.

A magnificent regal bird guarding the nest.
A magnificent regal bird guarding the nest.
Mom feeding her two chicks
Mom feeding her two chicks

We spotted an elusive great horned owl hanging out in the canopy of a pine tree at the 3/4 mile mark.  Looking like a football wedged in the branches above, further investigation revealed a beautifully colored predator.  No nest has been spotted this season, a disappointment to those who protect this island.

Hanging out in the canopy above.
Hanging out in the canopy above.

One final gift delighted us as we diverted our eyes from the sky to the ground right at our feet…the gopher tortoise.

I am much easier to photograph, don't you think?
I am much easier to photograph, wouldn’t you agree?

We had heard there was a shy little armadillo shuffling around in the brush but unfortunately he eluded us.  Having had a fruitful day of voyeurism, we headed back home with huge smiles on our faces.

Honeymoon and its neighbor, Caladesi Island, were once part of a large barrier island, split into two during a brutal hurricane that hit in 1921.  The waters running between these two islands are known as Hurricane Pass.  We hope to kayak over to Caladesi Island during our stay, weather permitting.   Timing for the paddle is tide dependent…too low and you are stuck in the mud and oyster beds and too high, you cannot squeeze through the mangrove canopies.  Sounds like great fun.  Wish us luck!

The Nature Coast ~ Cedar Key

There is a place on Florida’s Nature Coast where time seems to stand still and the winds even seem to quiet themselves, leaving a hush over land and water as the sun dips below the horizon.

At this moment, all seems right with the world.
At this moment, all seems right with the world.

Welcome to the sleepy little fishing village of Cedar Key, laid back natural beauty, tranquility at its finest.  No, we haven’t had the best weather every day since we arrived, but the vibe here helps you forget all that as you line up with others, camera in hand, waiting for the big show.

This eclectic little village of ~ 700 residents sits three miles out in the Gulf of Mexico, occupying 2.1 square miles, of which only 0.97 square miles is land. Aerial views of Cedar Key give you a great perspective on just how many channels and bayous occupy the watery part of this island.   Whether you are a birder, love to delve into local history, are intrigued by interesting little boutique shops, your passion is to cast a line into the water, or you are a foodie, you can get your fix in Cedar Key.  It is no wonder this small island, large on personality, was designated one of the Top 10 Coolest Small Towns in America by Budget Travel Magazine in 2011.

When I look back over the past week, I realize that as much as Cedar Key has to offer, we have done relatively little, preferring instead to set aside our watches, get into the rhythm of “island time” and spend our days visiting with new-found friends, a couple we have followed for some time (no, not stalking, just blog following) and a new blogger.

We have tracked down Cherie and Chris of Technomadiawho are wintering in Cedar Key.  We arranged a meet-up, got a tour of their funky vintage bus (very cool), met lizard-stalking Kiki the cat, and shared a few glasses of wine.  They are as awesome as they seem online and amazingly tech-savvy.  Terry and I have learned much from them through their blog and are always so grateful to those who share so much with RVers like ourselves who still feel like novices.

Chris, Cherie, me, & Terry in the Technomadia vintage bus.
Chris, Cherie, me, & Terry in the Technomadia vintage bus.

During a casual get-together at a local bar we also met Jim and Barb of Bounding the Borders, and immediately felt a connection.  We were fortunate enough to meet them again the next day for a fun-filled afternoon of kayaking.

Jim & Barb "Bounding the Borders"
Jim & Barb “Bounding the Borders”

Whether you kick back and relax like we have or like to be on the go, here are just a few ways to soak in the ambiance of Cedar Key:

1)  Taste the local fare

Tony’s Seafood Restaurant, awarded the coveted title of World Champions three years in a row for their clam chowder, was a place we had to try, and we had to admit it was pretty darn special.  Cedar Key is the top farm-raised clam producing community in the country so we knew we were getting some seriously fresh seafood.

We had a tip that Kona Joe’s Island Cafe  was a great place for breakfast and it did not disappoint.  New Jersey transplants, Joe, the front man, and his wife Edie, serve up yummy casual fare, like crab quiche and shrimp and grits, and the coffee is great!  Joe is big on personality and is eager to help make your stay in Cedar Key the best possible.

Kona Joe's
Kona Joe’s

2)  Kayak the boundary waters

If you like to kayak, Cedar Key is the perfect place for you, being 54% water but watch out for those oyster beds.  They can easily slice through an inflatable and have been known to do damage to hard-sided kayaks as well.   The tide tables are most important as you do not want to get stranded in the mud and silt for hours during low tide.  And getting out of your boat during low tide, we were told, can find you in mud and silt up to your waist!

While inflating our kayak for an afternoon paddle to Atsena Otie Key, we spotted Jim and Barb lining up a kayak with a local company.  We launched and began our 3/4 mile paddle across the channel, to what was the original site of Cedar Key until a hurricane sent residents over to the present-day site.   The weather was perfect, the water like glass.  We had a great day scouting the shore for shells, exploring the old cemetery and finding a mysterious hatch in the forest.  A few glasses of wine shared later that evening rounded out a very enjoyable day.

3)  Swim with the manatees

Several companies offer opportunities to see and swim with the manatees.  We had heard so much about Crystal River and Three Sisters Spring, where manatees love to congregate in the 72-degree waters.  We chose Crystal River Watersports and Captain Sam was very informative.  Beyond that he knew just where to take us for an up-close experience.  We had a private tour besides, being the only two there at 7am.  Unfortunately the Three Sisters Spring was closed due to the colder weather this part of Florida has experienced. Officials do not want we two-legged creatures to disturb the 100-150 manatees crowded into the spring, pushing them out into the colder waters where they are at risk of hypothermia.  The waters where we swam were not as clear but the experience was just as awesome, with us getting nose-to-nose (literally) with these docile creatures.  Captain Sam took us down to the boundary of the springs afterwards so we could see just how many manatees were hanging out.

4)  Catch a sunset

We found the best place to watch the spectacular light show at dusk was from the docks behind the Low-Key Hideaway Motel & RV Resort, owned by Pat and Cindy Bonish.  We stayed at the Cedar Key RV Resort a few miles down the road but we would definitely try to stay here when back in Cedar Key.  With  only three sites available, it is a funky little place and the Low-Key Tiki Bar seems to be the place in town to go for that perfect island sunset experience, and Pat makes a mean margarita.

Our exploration of Florida continues tomorrow as we head for Clearwater to meet up with friends.  We are taking away some awesome memories of this little gem sitting out in the Gulf of Mexico, with its laid back island vibe.  We will be back! 🙂

South of the Border for Peruvian Chicken

No wood-fired stove here, as we were so fond of seeing during our time in Mexico, where we had some of the tastiest chicken we have ever eaten; however, this is still quite good in the oven.  The chillier days that kept us indoors gave me a good excuse to cook, so as promised, here are a couple of our favorite recipes to whet your appetite.

Peruvian Roast Chicken with Garlic and Lime

Many of my favorite recipes come from Cook’s Illustrated, which is where this recipe can be found.  And because I cannot leave well enough alone, I did modify this just a wee bit, using Serrano chilies with seeds included and chicken thighs only.

Ingredients

  • 1/4 c. fresh mint leaves
  • 6 garlic cloves, chopped coarse
  • 3 T. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 T. salt
  • 1 T. pepper
  • 1 T. ground cumin
  • 1 T. sugar
  • 2 t. smoked paprika
  • 2 t. dried oregano
  • 2 t. finely grated lime zest + 1/4 c. lime juice
  • 1 t. minced Habanero chile ( I used Serrano with seeds included)
  • 1 – 3.5-4 pound chicken (I used thighs with skin on)

Directions

  • Process all ingredients except chicken in blender.
  • Rub paste over and under skin of cleaned chicken.
  • Marinate chicken in fridge for at least 2 hours (more is better).
  • Roast chicken in 325º oven for ~ 45 minutes, until thigh meat registers 150º.
  • Turn oven temp to 500º and roast until thigh meat registers 175º, another 10-15 minutes.  Skin should be nice and crispy and golden.
  • Enjoy!

A great side dish with this meal is roasted butternut squash.  This is one of our favorites, for its ease and delicious flavors.

Roasted Butternut Squash with Herbes de Provence

IMG_4009

If you like butternut squash, and really who doesn’t , I think you are gonna love this!

Ingredients

  • 6 c. (1 1/2″) cubed peeled butternut squash (~ 2 1/2 lbs.)
  • 1 T. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 1/2 t. dried herbes de provence
  • 3/4 t. sea salt
  • 1/2 t. ground black pepper
  • 2 medium onions, cut into wedges

Directions

  • Preheat oven to 425º.
  • Place above ingredients in shallow roasting pan coated with cooking spray and toss well.
  • Bake at 425º for 30 min or until tender and lightly browned, stirring occasionally. Yields 4 servings of ~ 1 cup each.
  • Prepare for your taste buds to do the happy dance!

Top this off with some sautéed garlicky greens and your favorite cocktail and life is definitely good! 🙂