There are a total of six lighthouses placed in strategic points among the Apostle Islands. While here we were able to take a ferry to Raspberry Island and tour their newly renovated lighthouse.
Raspberry Island sits 1.5 miles from the mainland and is 1/2 mile in width at its widest, making it one of the smallest of the Apostle Islands. It was judged to be the perfect location for the second lighthouse. Sitting on a bluff at the southwest point of the island, this lighthouse served double duty by showing the way to westbound ships passing Bayfield and directing eastbound ships between Bear and York Islands and into the channel around the mainland to Bayfield.
Raspberry Island Lighthouse cost $6,000 to build and its lantern was first lit in 1863. The current standing lighthouse was completed in 1906. The light of its lantern (5th order fresnel) can be seen for 10 miles and it flashes once every 60 seconds. W learned that each lighthouse lantern flashes at a different interval so sailors know which lighthouse they are looking at.
A 3/4 mile trek takes you down to the beach. Looking from any direction you can see islands dotting the channel. We are still astounded at just how clear the water is, unlike many other lakes we have encountered.
What Terry and I most wanted to see were the sea caves. Water is such a powerful force and what the waves have done to the sandstone shoreline, both the thawing and freezing action over centuries, is amazing! Probably the best way to see these is to go with an outfitter or use your own sea kayak and get up close and personal. This can be dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing, particularly during specific times of the year. We were approaching the end of the season for sea kayaking so we decided to take a trail off of the mainland to get a bird’s-eye view instead. We have been told that some of the best sea caves of the Great Lakes are located on the shorelines of the Apostle Islands.
We were pleased to have another couple join us for our hike, a couple we met while Terry was attempting to maneuver the rig into our site. They are from Iowa and have been full-timing for the 1.5 years. We were able to glean a great deal of information from them that will be helpful to us and all had a chance to laugh at some of the goofy things we have both done while on this journey. We are thoroughly enjoying their company and feel we have developed a new friendship.
Janie & John
Probably the most photographed and the most impressive sea caves are those on Devil’s Island and Sand Island, but those we were able to see from the mainland were dramatic as well.
Kayakers Investigating Sea CavesThe Power of WaterSandstone and Verdant ForestMe & Janie Enjoying our Hike
From here we are headed to Houghton, Michigan and are pleased that John and Janie were planning a trip there as well. We are looking forward to creating a few more memories together.
The ability to eat local sustainable foods is something we relish so we were delighted to see so many orchards and farms in the Bayfield area. We set aside one day to orchard hop and found some terrific buys. Grass-fed beef, smoked Lake Superior whitefish, heirloom tomatoes, dragon-tongue beans, and the most delicious apples that I promptly cooked down into some scrumptious applesauce were just a few of our finds. Couple that with the artesian well right outside our door and we are in heaven! Not to mention that the weather has been darn near perfect.
Each orchard or farm that we stopped at seemed to have their signature product.
Blue Vista Farm was a charming property, with colorful gardens filled with pumpkins, gourds, and sunflowers, and a striking barn which was used as their store. Here are a few pictures of their farm.
Homestead Gardens was a funky little property which did not appear to offer up much promise but was such a surprising find for grass-fed beef, organic vegetables and a store chock full of organic grains, nuts, seeds, spices and oils.
Erickson’s Orchard & Country Store specializes in apple cider donuts. We do not regularly indulge in this treat but the smell when we walked in the door and the knowledge that these sugary treats had just been pulled from the oven was just too provocative to pass up. Erickson’s apples provided the start for some pretty tasty applesauce as well.
Hauser Superior View Farm sold perennials and bedding plants, as well as various fruit jams and butters. The focal point of this property was the historic barn, a 1928 Sears barn purchased for $895.
We visited several other orchards and farms that offered their own specialties. It was a wonderful day that was a feast for the senses.
We have settled for a week at the Thompson West End City Park in Washburn, WI, looking out onto the majestic Lake Superior. This lovely park sits on the outskirts of Bayfield, the doorway to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. It is a great city park, big-rig friendly with 50 amp service and cable TV. There are several artesian wells within the surrounding area and one of them is flowing right at the park. Cold, clear delicious artesian water is just a few steps away!
The is my first visit to Lake Superior so I thought I would provide a few interesting facts:
Surface Area: *31,700 square miles Avg. Water Temp: 40° F
East-West: 382 miles North-South: 160 miles
Volume: 3,000,000,000,000,000 (quadrillion) gallons of water
Lake Superior has more water in it than all the other Great Lakes combined. It is the largest freshwater lake in the world based on surface area*.
Immediately upon settling into our site, we saw a beautiful large bird in the tree next to us, with a most unusual sound. We were treated to the greeting of a pileated woodpecker.
The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is a group of islands sitting within Lake Superior in northern Wisconsin. The name was given to these islands by the historian Franςois Xavier de Charlevoix, who named them after the 12 apostles, even though there are 22 of them! The islands are the spiritual home of the Lake Superior Chippewa.
Madeline Island Ferry
We decided to take a trip over to Madeline Island but before hopping on the ferry, we were able to spend a little time exploring the town of Bayfield. It is home of the headquarters for the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and was constructed from rock quarried from the islands before they were made into a park. The local Holy Family church was built from this same brownstone.
The Rittenhouse Inn, Wisconsin’s first B&B, built in 1975, is an elegant structure, having the reputation as one of the great Country Inns of North America. It has a huge wraparound veranda and views of Bayfield Harbor and the Apostle Islands beyond.
Bayfield Harbor with Rittenhouse Inn in Background
The seasonal festivals in Bayfield are ranked among the nation’s finest, particularly the Bayfield Apple Festival, drawing roughly 40,000 visitors annually. This year, October 7-9 they are celebrating their 50th anniversary and we wish we could be here for the festivities. This festival is listed as one of the Top Ten Autumn Festivals in North America by the Society of American Travel Writers. Other highly supported festivals occur here year-round.
Madeline Island, largest of the Apostle Islands archipelago, was named after Madeline Cadotte, daughter of Chief White Crane and wife of fur trader Michael Cadotte. It has been inhabited by Native Americans, missionaries, and fur traders, and has flown the flag of three nations over the past 400 years. The town of La Pointe, population of 272, occupies a space on this island, as well as Big Bay State Park.
Madeline Island View from FerryTerry on Madeline Island BeachFunky Restaurant in La Pointe
Bayfield, the berry capital of Wisconsin, is home to the largest organic blueberry farm in the state, the largest raspberry producer in the state, and offers the biggest variety of berries that you will find most anywhere. We were too late for the berry season but just in time for apple season. With more than a dozen orchards/farms around the Bayfield area, we spent a day touring the countryside and many of the orchards. We also scheduled a tour to the Raspberry Island Lighthouse and took a hike that gave us some great views of the sea caves. I will talk about these in upcoming posts.
We spent a leisurely week in Door County, WI, a four-season tourist haven. This picturesque county has so much to offer: 5 state parks, 10 lighthouses, 300+ miles of shoreline, colorful farmers’ markets, boutique shops and wineries, stunning flower gardens, and countless mouth-watering restaurants. We were reminded around every turn that this is a big dairy state, given the number of ice cream shops we encountered. Needless to say, we felt compelled to sample a few.
Door County was named after the strait that runs between Door Peninsula and Washington Island. This dangerous passage, strewn with shipwrecks, sits where the waters of Green Bay join the open waters of Lake Michigan and has been given the nickname “Death’s Door“.
Early on we spent an enjoyable evening with Jay and Beth, the couple from whom we purchased the RV, along with Beth’s mother. They made the decision to sell the RV and purchased a terrific 2-acre property right on Sturgeon Bay. Their loss was our gain, but the sunsets they traded for are spectacular! After dinner we sat around a bonfire on their little stretch of beach and watched the sunset.
Jay & BethMother "Dona" and her Beautiful SmileJay & Beth's Sturgeon Bay Sunset
We spent our stay at Tranquil Timbers RV Park, right outside of Potawatomi State Park, where we took pleasure exercising daily along the shores of Sturgeon Bay.
Tranquil Timbers RV Park
I believe that the pictures below give a good representation of the color and character of the towns and villages of Door County, so I will let them speak for themselves mostly, with a few of my thoughts thrown in for explanation.
The seat of Door County is Sturgeon Bay, a historic community that dates back to 1835. With a population of 9778, it boasts an alluring waterfront and 17 separate annual festivals, making it one of Wisconsin’s premium vacation getaways.
Egg Harbor, population of roughly 280, was named one of the top ten “Coolest Small Towns in America” by Budget Travel Magazine in 2010. Parks, beaches, a marina, golf courses, boutique shops, galleries and restaurants abound, not to mention the striking flower gardens.
Fish Creek, in the heart of the peninsula, takes pride in a historic main street, with enticing shops, galleries, and restaurants. With a population of 929, it has some of Door County’s best performing arts, as well as great marinas and beaches.
The Cookery
The Cookery, originally opened in 1977, had seating for 20. A subsequent fire closed it for a time, and when it reopened, it included a second story with wine bar and a seating capacity of 85. The seafood chowder is delicious!
Oilerie
The Oilerie, a very popular shop, was opened by a couple in 2003 after a visit to Europe, where they experienced charming little boutique olive oil shops. They decided to bring this concept to the US, where it has done very well. It is wonderful to be able to taste test the various olive oils and balsamic vinegar prior to purchase. Their 25-year old balsamic is exquisite, and their truffle oil and roasted walnut oil have found a place in our home also.
Along with the delightful shops and restaurants, Fish Creek is also home to Peninsula State Park, where we were able to spend an afternoon hiking.
Eagle Bluff Lighthouse in Peninsula State ParkHorseshoe Island Seen from Tower in Peninsula State Park
Sister Bay, population of 870, boasts the largest public waterfront, with a sand beach, docks, an extensive park area, and a gazebo that hosts free concerts in the summer. It was voted #1 in Wisconsin for small town dining by a state-wide survey.
Door County Bakery
The Door County Bakery is best known for their Corsica bread, heavy and laden with extra virgin olive oil.
Jacksonport, population of 750, is home to some of the county’s most scenic shoreline parks. Cave Point County Park, in our opinion, was certainly one of the most picturesque.
Cave Point County Park
With a population of 310 full-time residents, the village of Ephraim exhibits a blend of Norwegian and Moravian heritage. It is an artists’ haven and houses a graffiti-covered warehouse on Anderson Dock, now known as the Hardy Gallery. It was commonplace when fishermen docked that they write their names and name of their boat in paint on the sides of the warehouse and this tradition continues today.
Francis Hardy Gallery at Ephraim Wharf
A relaxing few hours can be spent sitting on the lawn at Fred and Fuzzy’s Restaurant, sipping on a cherry marguerita. It was a great way to while away a sunny afternoon.
Bay Viewed from Grounds of Fred and Fuzzy's in Ephraim
We enjoyed perfect weather while in Door County. The day we were planning to leave, the skies were overcast, which was our sign to move on. We headed back to Elkhorn to have a part replaced on our refrigerator and plan to spend the weekend back at Chain O Lakes State Park, a great park for hiking and just soaking up some summer sun. Have a great holiday weekend!
Madison or “Mad City”, as it is better known by the locals, is the capital of Wisconsin. With a population of 233,200, it is the second largest city in the state, behind Milwaukee. Madison was founded in 1836 and is named after our fourth President, James Madison. It is unique in many ways, one of which is that it sits on an isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona.
Terry lived in this clean, vibrant city about 30 years ago and was excited to see how it had changed during his time away. I was seeing it with fresh eyes, having never been here before but anxious to see it, given all I have heard. It did not disappoint me in the least and, except for the temps in the winter, which even the locals say are difficult to bear at times, it is a very livable city. It consistently ranks near the top of the best places to live, with the city’s low unemployment rate being a draw. Madison also ranks second in the nation, according to Forbes Magazine, in the “Top 20 Places to Educate Your Child” category. For a larger city, it has repeatedly been named one of “America’s Safest Cities”.
We stayed at a lovely little inn for a couple of nights, Ruby Marie B&B. We chose this location as it allowed us to walk everywhere, with bike paths along Lake Monona right outside our door and downtown a few blocks away. Ruby Marie’s opened as a hotel in 1873 and was used as a railroad hotel. The Wilson street area, where this B&B sits, was mainly a German community in the 19th century and still retains that flavor. It has been renovated by the current owner, with all the original woodwork retained.
Our first lunch in Madison took up to the Old Fashioned, which is a local haunt, serving wonderful salads and sandwiches. It sits across the street from the capitol building so that is where we ventured after a leisurely lunch.
This grand building is the largest state capitol, excluding that which is in Washington, DC. It is the only capitol built on an isthmus and can be viewed from most anywhere within Madison, due to its being situated near the high point of the isthmus. The existing structure was erected between the years 1906 and 1917, being the third capitol building in Madison, the second having been devastated in a fire. This majestic granite building stands over 200 feet tall and has the only granite dome in the United States. It showcases 43 varieties of stone from around the world, hand-carved furniture and glass mosaics. A mural entitled “Resources of Wisconsin” graces the ceiling of the rotunda.
Rotunda Ceiling
After a lengthy tour of the capitol, we headed off to State Street, probably the most noted street in the city, with much of it open to foot traffic and bicycles only. Madison is a very bike-friendly city, rivaling the likes of Portland OR.
State Street runs for several blocks and consists of countless funky and boutique clothing stores, microbreweries and bars, and more ethnic restaurants than I have seen in a city in a long time. We enjoyed a hearty, fragrant Afghan soup, bread and tasty dipping sauces for our first evening meal.
On our way back to the B&B we encountered a young man and his dog. He was playing an upright piano (very well I might add) and a sign was posted stating that he was traveling across the US, hoping to inspire people, through his music, to follow their deepest desires. His website, entitled http://pianoacrossamerica.com tells his story.
Dotan Negrin and His Little Friend
We wrapped up our day with a visit to a German pub next to our B&B, to imbibe in a couple of microbrews.
Terry and I both enjoy the beauty of gardens so we decided to check out Olbrich Botanical Gardens, covering 16 acres, with upwards of 12 separate gardens and a conservatory. The textures and colors of the gardens, along with the babbling brooks and the Thai pavilion made the trip worthwhile. Enjoy a few of the pictures that we took.
Thai Pavilion
The Oscar Mayer Wienermobile. This is what we encountered when we left the botanical gardens and entered their parking lot. You think you know someone after 20 years of marriage but I would have never guessed that this sight would have caused the reaction that it did in Terry. I think in some respects this may have been the highlight of his trip to Madison. I was beginning to wonder about this man, seemingly cultured, who appeared to be so enthralled with the Oscar Mayer wienermobile. I certainly remember the Oscar Mayer commercials as a kid and seeing pictures of the wienermobile but I can’t say that I was exhibiting the same emotions as my husband. It wasn’t until Terry told me that he emailed this picture to our friend Les and she had a similar reaction that I am now feeling a little fragile about my own childhood. What meaningful experience did I miss early in life?
Gail specializes in dark chocolate delicacies only and they are like the food of the gods. She has received notoriety from the Foot Network and has had an honorable mention in the Oprah Magazine, not to mention a wall full of other local awards that this woman has received. We spent a lengthy amount of time there, inhaling the rich aromas and sampling the homemade Mexican chocolate gelato. Of course we had to walk away with many varieties of her chocolate creations as well. Since dark chocolate has such great antioxidant value, we were feeling pretty healthy when we walked out of her store.
A stroll along the Lake Monona waterfront and another State Street venture, along with dinner at Bukara, a popular East African restaurant, rounded out our day.
A visit to Madison is not complete without walking the grounds of the University of Wisconsin, which we did the following day. Bascom Hall, seen below, is the main administration building of this esteemed campus and was named after John Bascom, former president of the university.
Many of these buildings date back to the late 1800’s. North Hall, the first university building, completed in 1851, is still in use.
Noteworthy also is Babcock ice cream, a homemade delicacy created in the dairy of the agricultural school, and served up daily in the Student Union.
Madison offers such a wide array of gifts to locals and visitors alike. It is a cultural capital, with free jazz and orchestral concerts in the summer, as well as being a biking mecca. Thank goodness for the miles of bike paths that provided us with exercise each day, to assist in burning some of the calories that we consumed while here. My only regret is that we were not here on a Saturday to enjoy the farmer’s market that is held in the downtown capitol area. I am told it is magnificent.
From Madison, we are taking a week-long respite in Door County. Stay tuned for my thoughts on this enchanting part of Wisconsin.